|
|
 |
01-03-2004, 10:04 AM
|
#1 of 12 
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Local Time: 06:05 AM
Local Date: 10-08-2008
Posts: 100
|
How not to break my new subwoofer?
Sounds dumb but...
My new Dayton 10 inch, 100 watt, Subwoofer is scheduled to arrive via UPS this coming Monday. I ordered it after seeing comments here and after returning the defective 50 watt, 10 inch, Polk subwoofer that I had bought.
I can't help be somewhat paranoid and wonder if I did something nasty to the Polk, rather than it simply being defective. So, wanting to be safe with the new Dayton, is there a correct way to bring the sub-woofer on line in my system? With the Polk I hooked it up, did not hear much and then cranked its volume setting to the maximum...I heard a rattle then. I since know a bit more about my receiver's subwoofer settings. The receiver can be set to no subwoofer, min, maximum, and at various settings from 0-15.
Should I be setting the receiver to minimum and increasing the volume on the Dayton, or what ?
|
|
|
|
01-03-2004, 10:57 AM
|
#2 of 12
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Local Time: 02:05 AM
Local Date: 10-08-2008
Posts: 2,575
|
Quote:
|
With the Polk I hooked it up, did not hear much and then cranked its volume setting to the maximum...I heard a rattle then.
|
- Set the volume level on the sub to the 12 O'clock position.
- Set the crossover to the highest setting (e.g. 160 Hz.)
- Utilize your receiver for the crossover portion.
- Adjust the sub level via your receiver.
Step 1 and 4 are just suggestions. Ultimately, you should use an SPL meter for setting your subwoofer and speakers up. However, you should not have a need to crank the volume at the sub level all the way up like you did with the Polk. Doing so, probably pushes the output of the amp into a level of very high distortion - which is not good for the driver itself.
\"My reality check ... just bounced\"
|
|
|
|
|
01-03-2004, 12:46 PM
|
#3 of 12
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Local Time: 06:05 AM
Local Date: 10-08-2008
Posts: 100
|
Quote:
Set the volume level on the sub to the 12 O'clock position.
- Set the crossover to the highest setting (e.g. 160 Hz.)
- Utilize your receiver for the crossover
|
Can you explain "Utilize your receiver for the crossover " ? I see my receiver has a "filter" option (100, 150, or 200, ) is this what you mean? |
|
|
|
|
01-03-2004, 12:59 PM
|
#4 of 12
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Local Time: 10:05 PM
Local Date: 10-07-2008
Posts: 1,243
|
Yes. You want to run the subwoofer's crossover "wide open". Some subs have a switch to completely defeat the sub's built-in low pass filter. I'm guessing the Dayton doesn't. In that case, simply turn the sub's low pass filter all the way up, so that it's letting through the most frequencies.
Then you set your receiver's low-pass filter on the sub-out to a frequency that matches your speakers' capabilities. Many times this is 80 Hz and non-adjustable. Sounds like your receiver gives you a few choices. Generally speaking, lower is better as long as your speakers blend properly and there isn't a "hole" between the mains and the sub.
Hope that helps.
|
|
|
|
|
01-03-2004, 02:21 PM
|
#5 of 12
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Local Time: 06:05 AM
Local Date: 10-08-2008
Posts: 100
|
Thanks Richard. The Dayton subwoofer specs say "and a 12 dB electronic low pass filter that is continuously variable from 40 to 160 Hz: "
So, to match the receiver and sub settings looks like I would choose 150 Hz, since the receiver has that as one of the choices and the sub does not go up to the 200 Hz that the receiver allows for.
How would I recognize any "hole" between the speakers and the sub?
|
|
|
|
|
01-03-2004, 06:12 PM
|
#6 of 12
|
|
Member
Location: Seattle
Join Date: Aug 2002
Local Time: 10:05 PM
Local Date: 10-07-2008
Posts: 4,759
|
turn the crossover knob on your subwoofer ALL the way up, and let your receiver handle the crossover.
|
|
|
|
|
01-04-2004, 06:36 AM
|
#7 of 12
|
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Local Time: 01:05 AM
Local Date: 10-08-2008
Posts: 94
|
Andrew,
Just to be clear, you don't want to "match" the settings -- they should NOT be the same.
1. Turn the sub crossover up to the highest frequency, probably 160 hz.
2. Does your receiver have a "filter" setting for 80 hz (the lowest you mention is 100)? If so, set it there for starters and see how it sounds.
This configuration effectively removes you sub's crossover and uses the receiver's, set (in this example) to 80 hz.
|
|
|
|
|
01-04-2004, 02:32 PM
|
#8 of 12
|
|
Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Local Time: 02:05 AM
Local Date: 10-08-2008
Posts: 562
|
man I have heard of people bottoming there sub or blowing it. I have a JVC 12" 120w sub I dont care about , especially since I ordered a SVS 25-31PC+.
I have been try to blow this sub with no luck. I mean I could if I wanted but im pushing it hard and bottoming it out and its so funny it takes the abuse and wont die. lol
its very funny!
|
|
|
|
|
01-05-2004, 02:07 PM
|
#9 of 12
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Local Time: 06:05 AM
Local Date: 10-08-2008
Posts: 100
|
Thanks, the Dayton arrived today. Looks nice and is working really well, better than the 50Watt Polk did and a lot better than my Radio Shack 100W 12 inch passive Sub.
I appreciate all the help I received via this forum.
Andy.
|
|
|
|
|
01-06-2004, 06:47 PM
|
#10 of 12
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Local Time: 06:05 AM
Local Date: 10-08-2008
Posts: 2
|
Good luck with it. Ironically, I am just searching the web because the DLS-10 I bought two years ago no longer works. It blows the fuse the second it is plugged in. I can't afford a new one (I see it's up to $125 these days) right now, so I'm hoping to get some hints on fixing it. If anyone has any experience with these or subs in general and know if this might be a repairable problem, please let me know. Thanks!
Good luck with the Dayton. Go with a nice surge protector. Personally, I'm plugging everything I own that cost more than $50 into APC UPS units from now on. Seems like a nice extra level of protection.
|
|
|
|
|
