|
|
 |
06-09-2004, 10:30 AM
|
#1 of 28 
|
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 1998
Local Time: 12:35 AM
Local Date: 10-14-2008
Posts: 628
|
Bi-amping the Denon 3803?
I was wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to bi-amp the 3803 as is possible with the 3805 as mentioned in the link below?
http://www.audioholics.com/productre...5_review04.php
If this is your first night, you have to fight
|
|
|
|
06-09-2004, 12:12 PM
|
#2 of 28
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Local Time: 11:35 PM
Local Date: 10-13-2008
Posts: 793
|
Yes, the 3803 has the same multi-zone functionality.
The only way to safely double your money is to fold it over once and place it back in your pocket.
http://www.cube17576.com
|
|
|
|
|
06-09-2004, 02:38 PM
|
#3 of 28
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Local Time: 09:35 PM
Local Date: 10-13-2008
Posts: 53
|
What about the 3802?
|
|
|
|
|
06-09-2004, 04:32 PM
|
#4 of 28
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Local Time: 11:35 PM
Local Date: 10-13-2008
Posts: 321
|
Not without an external active crossover, even then you wont get the full benefit without seperate amps,
|
|
|
|
|
06-09-2004, 05:49 PM
|
#5 of 28
|
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 1998
Local Time: 12:35 AM
Local Date: 10-14-2008
Posts: 628
|
While I may not get the full benefit, is there any benefit to following what the article said to do?
Thanks
If this is your first night, you have to fight
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
06-09-2004, 07:08 PM
|
#6 of 28
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Local Time: 11:35 PM
Local Date: 10-13-2008
Posts: 321
|
I don't know, I can't tell from the article if it is able to divide the frequency between the tweeter and the mid/woofer. From what I can tell this is more like passive bi-amping, which IMO will not make any difference that could be heard, but hey, give it a try, it might be great.
The real advantage of true Bi-Amping is the control or dampening over the drivers you gain, having no passive components (caps, coils, resistors) in-between the amp output and the tweeter/midrange/woofer terminals allows for much better control without changing the phase. Also the separate amps power supplies are split, one dedicated to the tweeter and one dedicated to the mids, and so on, this is known as horizontal active bi-amping, and IMO is the best way to gain the most advantages.
Not enough time to explain all the advantages of true bi-amping, but the link below is a good resource.
http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm |
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
06-09-2004, 07:45 PM
|
#7 of 28
|
|
Member
Location: San Jose, Ca.
Join Date: Jun 1999
Local Time: 09:35 PM
Local Date: 10-13-2008
Posts: 11,228
|
Quote:
|
I don't know, I can't tell from the article if it is able to divide the frequency between the tweeter and the mid/woofer. From what I can tell this is more like passive bi-amping, which IMO will not make any difference that could be heard, but hey, give it a try, it might be great.
|
Passive bi-amping DOES work. Separate amps allow far less distortion. In this case, they would be fed off the same power supply and would NOT be truly giving you "240 wpc" as this guy is trying to say (the 110wpc rating is only for stereo, not all channels driven). There would likely be a slight benefit, and you DON'T need an active x-over to achieve it.
If you remove the passive x-over components, you have essentially destroyed one of the primary characteristics of a given speaker. It's not simply a matter of slopes.
"The trouble with the world is not that people know too little, but that they know so many things that ain't so." - Mark Twain
HT: Marantz SR-8300, MA500 monoblocks x 2, 5X GR Research A/V-2s, Adire Audio Tempest sub, Denon 2900, Oppo 980H, Toshiba HD-A2, RC2000MkII remote, Panamax 5100, Panamax Max2 sub, Slim PS2, PS3 60G + 320G USB
Bedroom: Marantz PM-7200 Integrated, GR Research A/V-1s, Sony 222ES SACD, RC3200 remote, Panamax M8EX
Audio: Audioquest * Video: Bluejeans
My DVDs  My HT
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
06-09-2004, 09:42 PM
|
#8 of 28
|
|
Member
Location: Katy, TX
Join Date: Aug 1999
Local Time: 11:35 PM
Local Date: 10-13-2008
Posts: 6,487
|
Quote:
|
If you remove the passive x-over components, you have essentially destroyed one of the primary characteristics of a given speaker.
|
Perhaps, but this might not necessarily be all bad. With some designs, they load stuff into the crossover to make the drivers “behave” better – i.e., to counteract the negative effects of the other passive elements. And it’s not uncommon for resistors to be added for the sole purpose of padding down either the woofer or the tweeter’s output level, to match the other.
For instance, my speakers originally had a very low crossover point – 1200Hz – and it was pretty easy to blow the tweeter. A rep sent me a schematic of how to modify the crossover to raise the frequency to 1800Hz. Part of that entailed removing a resistor. I immediately noticed that the bass sounded tighter – hardly a detrimental result.
Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
06-10-2004, 07:54 AM
|
#9 of 28
|
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 1998
Local Time: 12:35 AM
Local Date: 10-14-2008
Posts: 628
|
Well thanks for all the help. I'll give it a try, for fun, this weekend.
If this is your first night, you have to fight
|
|
|
|
|
