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Old 09-26-2002, 10:31 AM   #91 of 1248
Harlan B
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Thanks for asking Jeff.

I actually struggled a bit to cut the massive 24" sonotube: but I got it done. That was all I got done: because I havn't found a Plunge Router I like that is affordable yet...

Also, I realized too late that the tube isn't sonotube brand: it's Shepler's brand... but I don't think that'll matter.

I'll keep ya'll posted and get pictures when I can.

Harlan



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Old 09-26-2002, 12:18 PM   #92 of 1248
Jeff Meininger
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Shepler's sources their tube from Sonoco, so it's sonotube. Same applies for tube from "Texas Contractors Supply". These are the only two retailers in town that Sonoco deals with directly.

Did you get strange stringy things when cutting your tube?
http://boxybutgood.com/temp/sonosub/SubDAY1-002.jpg
What did you use to cut it?
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Old 09-26-2002, 12:52 PM   #93 of 1248
Hank Frankenberg
 
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Harlan, hang in there - you'll be rewarded with one heck of a value subwoof. I used 24" diameter tube also for my Tempest and it's an imposing size.

Jeff, I think that strange stuff is wax. The tubes have a coating of wax on the inside to waterpfoof them. If you're going to glue batting to the inside, you need to peel that wax off - it's easy.
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Old 09-26-2002, 01:44 PM   #94 of 1248
Jeff Meininger
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Oops.. too late. I already glued the batting in place without peeling off the inner layer. 3M Super 77. It seems to be stuck in place pretty well, though. It takes quite a bit of effort to peel it from the tube wall, so I'm not worried.

An update on my project: I have soldered some 12GA speaker wire to my binding post terminals. I suck at soldering. I couldn't get the solder to stick to the test leads I used as solder tabs. I had to really sand the heck out of 'em. I was suprised to find that they were copper under a thin coating of silver/gray metal. I wrapped some (3M brand) electrical tape around one of the terminals just in case wood filler, caulk, or liquid nails was at all conductive. I filled the hole with liquid nails (to about half-depth). I had originally filled it with wood filler, but as it dried I noticed that it was cracking (shrinking). I envisioned the wad of wood filler breaking loose under vibration and rattling around in there. I had to scoop it all out and pick away the dried bits with a dental tool the next day. I'm going to give the liquid nails some more drying time, then spread a thin layer of caulk over it just for good measure. Anyway, either liquid nails is not conductive, or my tape job held up because the multimeter says "infinite ohms". I'm so close now... come on October, you can't get here fast enough.

Side note: does anyone reading this know Mark Hayenga's phone number? I haven't been able to get in touch with him by Email, HTF private message, or ICQ.
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Old 09-26-2002, 02:02 PM   #95 of 1248
Jonathan DA
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Jeff, Mark is notoriously hard to get a hold of. And to think he gives me crap for being a curmudgeon; I'll have him contact you.
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Old 09-26-2002, 02:51 PM   #96 of 1248
Jeff Meininger
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Jonathan: Thanks!

[Edit: he dropped me an email. Thanks!]
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Old 09-30-2002, 09:34 AM   #97 of 1248
Hank Frankenberg
 
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My DIY apprentice Emjay (age 4) wanted RED speakers. They're almost ready for his critique. There's one picture on the second page of my Geocities web site:
http://www.geocities.com/hankbond1/index
I wish I could just post a couple of pictures instead of having to put them on that site - the resolution is low. The red color is a bit off on the photo - the cabinets are a dark, but real, red.
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Old 10-11-2002, 08:31 AM   #98 of 1248
Jeff Meininger
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My sub is finished! Rather than start two threads on two forums, I posted it to the DIY forum.

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htfo...hreadid=100562
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Old 10-14-2002, 10:00 AM   #99 of 1248
Harlan B
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My 290L 24" Sonotube Subwoofer project is starting to bum me out...

First, does anyone have ~21" of 6"diameter PVC for my port? I really don't want to buy 10feet of PVC... but I will. Otherwise, anyone know any place in Austin that'll sell 21" worth?

Next, I had a problem this weekend... After getting my MDF all glued and cut (~2hrs work), only then did I bother to measure my "24inch" sonotube. It's actually 26", with a 25.5" inner diameter.

So, I had 2 perfectly cut (well mostly) circles, and a top cap that slipped right into the top of the tube. Useless.

I've decided to chalk that 16$ MDF board to practice. It was good practice...I'm getting good cutting circles with the router.

I'm off to buy 2-27"x27" and 2-26"x26" MDF pieces... Wish me luck for next weekend,
Harlan

p.s. It's killing me having the driver and amp sitting there, and not being able to hook it all up!!!



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I am dangerous.\"
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Old 10-14-2002, 12:29 PM   #100 of 1248
Hank Frankenberg
 
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Harlan, sorry to read about your diameter problem. That's very strange, since in the last couple of years of reading about sonosubs, I don't recall a diameter difference of more than 1/8" or 1/4" between marked and actual diameter. Is your tube marked? Did you ask for 24" diameter and they handed you what you have? They may have made a mistake. If you're going to keep it, re-calculate your numbers - you may want to shorten the tube to make up for the larger volume than you thought you had.
Hang in there - it'll be worth your efforts.
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Old 10-17-2002, 01:13 PM   #101 of 1248
Harlan B
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Hank, I asked and recieved 24" diameter. The piece is marked.... and when I measured. Outer Diameter is 25.5", inner diamter ~25"

Well, I spent yesterday (8 hours) working on "the Project" as my wife likes to call it. After buying more MDF, I re-routed the top. again, my inner MDF circle was too small... But at least the outer circle was big enough to overlap: I'll just fill in the gaps with glue and Silicon...

Any thoughts on if filling in the 1/2" all the way around gap from the inner MDF to the sonotube wall will make a bad seal? I don't think it will, since the top cap piece is big enough... thoughts?

Also, I made the holes for the Port and the Driver. Easily done... perfect fit. And I routed/cut the bottom piece. I did a nifty trick with the outer bottom endcap by extending it in sort of a V shape, so that the Box for my AMP can sit on it. I'll show pics later.

Next Step: Assembly (with lots of filler and glue), and cosmetics (Sanding, painting, and wrapping).



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I am dangerous.\"
http://www.fastai.com/ht
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