Where to find black aniline dye? Locally if I can...

Mattak · 04-30-2006, 03:20 PM

Where would one expect to find black aniline dye? I went to my local Ace/Miner's Hardware and they didn't know what it was, nevermind having it.

Would HD?

Joe D · 05-01-2006, 12:49 PM

I know it is not local, but www.stewmac.com is a guitar related supplier and they sell a black dye. It can be found under the finishing supply menu.

I've used the green dye with success on a guitar project.

I buy from them frequently and they are always very fast in shipping stuff out.

Joe L. · 05-01-2006, 06:19 PM

Probably not local unless you are lucky, but it is available in both water soluble powder and alcohol soluble powder here:

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...ARTNUM=844-995

and

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...ARTNUM=846-150

I used the water soluble EBONY BLACK when I built my Audax HT speakers.
1 Oz of powder disolved in 1 quart of hot water was enough for 5 speakers and 4 stands. A little goes a long way.

Joe L.
(Burlington,NC store is only about 15 minutes drive from where I work... I'm lucky)

Michael Hartwig · 05-02-2006, 11:39 AM

I had the same problem. What I came up with and worked quite well was flat black latex water based paint. I thinned it down with water (experiment on scrap wood to get the right consistency). The results were very good on oak. The grain was still very visable. I think I used tung (pseudo tung oil that has some varnish in it) oil over this. I also used black polish (Kiwi) to give them a very nice buff. I like the black shoe polish because it doesn't leave visible residue in the open pores of the oak.

Kyle McCabe · 05-02-2006, 04:12 PM

Mattak,

I would suggest talking to a local leather shop if your dye must be an aniline dye. Aniline dyes, to my knowledge, are commonly used in leathers- furniture in particular. Well, at least the high-end leathers are aniline dyed.

What kind of project do you have in mind?

-Kyle

**HTF Ads**

Mattak · 05-02-2006, 09:18 PM

I went ahead and ordered some from woodworker.com last night since they seemed to have a fairly decent price, and they shipped already.

I'm working on a center channel and like the look of other cabinets I've seen finished with black aniline dye, whereas black stain looks pretty poor IMO (I tested it on some scrap pieces of veneer as well and wasn't very happy with the look). My other speakers (left, right, sub) are a clear coated birch, but I didn't want my center to be a distraction. I actually ran out of the veneer I used for the others, so my center is a combination of the birch as well as some maple (I think?) on the top and bottom (large sides). Bare, both woods are about the same color so I'm not too worried...

Kyle McCabe · 05-03-2006, 06:11 PM

Good choice on the dye, Mattak. I haven't used a stain since the day I discovered how superior dyes are. Admittedly, most of my experience using dyes is limited to rifle stocks and a toy chest, so I can't say I've ever dyed a speaker box. I can't say how it would be any different though.

For those who are wondering, dyes are superior to stains because they are simply pigments and nothing more, whereas most stains are actually a varnish, which won't take to a substrate as well as a pure pigment will. Also, most dyes are alcohol-based, which means that once they are applied, all of the alcohol will evaporate and leave your substrate clean and streak-free, unlike the mess that stains tend to create.

I typically use a clear coat of sorts over the dye, depending on the application. I'm a big fan of BullsEye Shellac, as well as pure tung oils (NOT the common Wal-Mart "tung oil solutions", which generally have no tung oil at all) and a little Japan Drier. I think that for a speaker box, I would use a polyurethane of sorts, with the shine buffed away with some #0000 Fine steel wool. ;-)

-Kyle

Mattak · 05-03-2006, 07:44 PM

I guess I should mention that I bought the alcohol soluble powder, not the water soluble (both are available). I'm not a big fan of using water based products on veneer, or at least not when trying to APPLY veneer...but I just shy away from it whenever I can. I've already done my other cabs with deft satin lacquer and am happy with the finish.

Joe L. · 05-03-2006, 11:33 PM

I had used the water soluble dye powder. It did raise the fibers of the veneer. The instructions on the woodworker web-site direct you to dampen the veneer surface with water first and let it dry to raise any fibers. Then to lightly sand and then apply the dye. I think the alcohol based dye might raise less fibers and make for less work. I think you made a good decision.

On my Audax HT center channel I used a clear water based polyurethane satin finish over the aniline dye. It was way more shine than I was looking for and reflections from the screen were distracting. On my left/right channels I used a dead-flat lacquer purchased from woodworker.com over the black dye. It has no gloss or shine at all, and when dry you cannot tell it was applied at all. I really like the way it came out.

I'll be using the dead-flat spray lacquer again on the new Dayton RS based center channel I'm currently constructing. This time, like you, I think I'll try the alcohol based dye.

Joe L.

Mattak · 05-03-2006, 11:42 PM

cool

It's supposed to be here friday, so I'll get some pics up late friday or sometime saturday

KurtJ · 05-04-2006, 12:38 PM

Would that type of dye work on MDF?