[Orlando]

Not totally sure what I should do. I need a 12-volt trigger line but my receiver doesn't have one. But it does have a switched outlet. There has to be an easy not to expensive way to use the switched outlet to get a 12-volt trigger line.

Please help.
Would something like this combo work?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

and

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

[Ryan Schnacke]

Saw this posted on the Cult of the IB forum. Seems like a good solution.

http://www.bitsltd.net/SmartStrip/faqlcg3.htm

[Joe L.]

Rummage through your junk drawers and find a 6 to 9 volt DC wall wart and plug it into your switched outlet on your receiver. If you don't have a wall-wart of the right voltage, a quick trip to Radio Shack will let you buy one.

If you measure it without a load I'll bet the voltage from the wall-wart will be very close to the 12 volts you need for your trigger.

If by chance you happen to find a wall-wart that regulates its output, or if whatever you are triggering draws a bit of current the wall-wart will probably supply exactly the voltage it is rated for, but unregulated wall-wart supplies (most of them) will output quite a lot more voltage when unloaded than when under load, that is why I did not suggest a 12 volt wall-wart.

MAKE SURE the wall-wart is for DC and not AC and make sure to connect it with the correct polarity to whatever you are controlling.

Joe L.

[Leo Kerr]

Or, the alternative might be, to provide a small "ghost load" for the 12v wall-wart. Doesn't need to be much; a 12v "grain of wheat" lamp or a dash-lamp from an automotive supply store, or something like that.

As a side note, there are two common sorts of "receiver" for the 12v trigger. The relay (has a "click" when triggered,) has its own load, so a 12v current doesn't need to be loaded by you. If it is a 'presence' detect (solid state, like a printer's "paper out") if it's made in any sort of reliable fashion, it'll trigger safely anywhere from about 9v to 16v; maybe higher.

Do be careful, though, and just because I'm describing the ones I've worked with, doesn't mean that yours will (a) work that way, or (b) have the same safety tolerances.

Leo

[Orlando]

Thanks guys for all your help. Based on some of your recommendations in the end I used one of these.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...at=Tool+Safety