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01-10-2006, 10:39 PM
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#1 of 9
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Member
Location: San Diego, CA
Join Date: Nov 2002
Local Time: 12:05 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 264
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DIY TV Stand Plans?
I want a decent, heavy-duty TV stand, but don't want to pay the prices they seem to cost.
I don't need anything fancy, don't need drawers or doors, just a stand not an entire entertainment center.
Are there any plans readily available that I can look through?
Thanks a lot.
Tim
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01-11-2006, 10:13 AM
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#2 of 9
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Local Time: 01:05 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 23
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search for flexy style racks, I have seen some designs on the net that are large enough for a TV unit.
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01-25-2006, 03:20 PM
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#3 of 9
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Local Time: 09:05 AM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 64
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Take a look at what I have done:
I basically took the idea of the Salamander Synergy triple 30 and made it to fit the size I had to fill. I bought the aluminum extrusions from Rose+Krieger (40x40 square) and cut all the wood. The aluminum extrusions can also be found through www.8020.net, also check because they sell lots of their stuff on ebay very cheap.
I have a friend who did the 8020 brand stuff, in plain clear-anodize aluminum for a rack for his new 65" RPTV and he was very pleased with the results.
I have more info on my web site if you need it.
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01-25-2006, 03:55 PM
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#4 of 9
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Local Time: 05:05 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 178
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definatley look into flexy racks. I've built so many for different things. I built one thats holding 100lbs in amps right now. And i made a coffee table out of the flexy rack idea, and I can stand on it, all 175lbs of me. They are damn strong.
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02-14-2006, 07:00 PM
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#5 of 9
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Member
Location: San Diego, CA
Join Date: Nov 2002
Local Time: 12:05 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 264
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Here's what I ended up doing...only cost me $60 in materials, and about 12 hours of work. A good weekend project if you're looking for a high quality stand for not much $$$. It's all 3/4" oak plywood, and the top is solid oak (so the top has 3/4 oak on top of 3/4 oak plywood). Used a golden oak stain, 2 coats of poly.

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02-15-2006, 10:04 AM
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#6 of 9
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Local Time: 09:05 AM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 64
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Dude, you need to make your cable holes bigger! Oh, and it's a good idea to keep your power and signal cables away from each other, so having holes for just your power cables is a good way to do that.
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02-15-2006, 12:49 PM
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#7 of 9
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Member
Location: San Diego, CA
Join Date: Nov 2002
Local Time: 12:05 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 264
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They fit through just fine, I don't like having the hole too big, or cables end up everywhere.
But I wasn't aware that keeping the power and signal cables separate was preferred. Just helps eliminate any possible interference, or what?
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02-15-2006, 12:58 PM
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#8 of 9
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Local Time: 09:05 AM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 64
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Yeah, it helps eliminate any 60hz hums that can get into any signal wires. Same idea is always preferred for PC board layout since it produces a cleaner signal. If they need to cross, they should always do so at a 90 degree angle, since that allows the least amount of interferance and so on. Of course, this is one of those problems that many of us can't do much about, since once the wires go through the holes, then what? They normally are crammed behind the equipment rack on the floor...
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02-15-2006, 01:05 PM
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#9 of 9
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Member
Location: San Diego, CA
Join Date: Nov 2002
Local Time: 12:05 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 264
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Thanks, I'll see what I can do. I did already have all the power cords tied together separate from the signal cables behind the stand, so I guess half my work is done already.
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