KeithMoechnig

I will be building a titanic MK3 15" subwoofer really soon and hope to get a Crown XLS 402 to amplify it. Would a 4-ohm bridge(1140 watt) be enough to damage the titanic(1100 watt max)? I have a sony STr-DE-995 and listen to movies at a volume level around 45-50 on it(really quiet according to my brother).
I really don't want to blow a suband don't know too much about this topic, that's why I'm asking.
If that would be enough to blow a sub, could I put a 2-ohm resistor(making the titanic a 6-ohm driver) and bridge it then?

stephanX

that coulf fry it to bits id bet. you cant really go by max power, because its double rms, and if you constantly feed a sub max with bass heavy music it will fry. But by the same toke, you can usually give a sub more than RMS, because rms is how much power the sub will take wit ha pure sine wave (hardest thing you can do to a sub)

I once heard a rule, from a car audio guy, to get an amp that has 125% of the subs rms, that way you can push the sub to its limits without fear of clipping, and you can push the sub past its thermal limits for short periods of time if you so desire. It also means you wont get clipped transients at high volumes.

Can your 450$(cad) sub hit 120db at 40hz?

ThomasW

Of course you'll destroy the driver, this is home audio not dB drag racing
These number are meaningless. To know the output power of the amp you need to know the output level of the receiver. These number do represent that...
The resistor will blow up.

That's a REALLY, REALLY, BAD idea.

theAudioWorx Klone-Audio
Cult of the Infinitely Baffled (Resource for IB sub builders)

Jordan_Brulotte

Depending on the enclosure type you may hit the mechanical limits of the driver before reaching the thermal limits.

The tempest based sub I am running has a 360W amp into 4ohms and there is no way I can use close to all that power before it would bottom out the driver. However, my sub is ~10 cubic feet ported so the mechanical limits are reached much faster than say a sealed enclosure.

I say get 4 titanics instead!

DevinJC

big big box.

HTF2005Challenge

The Collection

JustinSC

Could you explain a little more why you would blow your sub? Most of the time you won't be running at a volume level where you would be acheiving 1000+ watts. If you set your gain well and don't play at excessive levels I don't think you would blow the sub?

Mark Hayenga

Why so much power? Those 300w Outlaw monoblocks make fine sub amps.

But yes, 1100w can destroy a driver both thermally and mechanically. But odds are you'd just be wasting money since, in reality, you'd only be running the amp at a fraction of its power output. A kilowatt into a good, efficient sub is LOUD.

"There are 10 types of people in the world: those that understand binary, and those that have friends."

KeithMoechnig

My brother says it hurts a driver more to underpower it than overpower it and the titanic's power handling is 800watt rms and 1100watt max but I don't believe it's true(underowering that is). Would I hurt the driver with 400 watts? This is going in an 8 cubic foot box with 3 vents 15.59 inches long if that helps. Just out of curiousity, how loud(dB) would I have to be playing to blow this sub if I feed 1140 watts to it?

ThomasW

No but you could hurt your hearing.
The dB output will be dependent on the frequency being played.

theAudioWorx Klone-Audio
Cult of the Infinitely Baffled (Resource for IB sub builders)

ColinM

Low-pass pink niose, about 116db @ 1100w, but that's using very simple math and should be taken with much salt and pepper. You never really know until you try, or let the CRAY work on it for a few seconds.

Really, you'll hardly ever use that much power. You'll get so SICK of demo's that you'll eventually start thinking about quality vs quantity.

Good to have more power than you need, but be responsible.

You call that a knife?

Chuck Bogie

It's better to have excess power, to avoid clipping, distortion, etc., and _not use it_. Guys, just because the volume level goes to 11 doesn't mean you have to crank it there.

I've got a friend who I've been trying to design a set of speaks for - His standard mode of operation is to turn _everything_ all the way up. To me, it sounds like crap. And he keeps complaining about defective speakers...