I have been without a sub ever since I first purchased my HT equipment and I think it is time to finally get a sub. I have decided to build a sub myself with a 15" Atlas in a sealed box run off of a 250 Parts express plate amp. One question I have for you all is what size recommendations do you have for the sealed box? Also when cutting a hole for a plate amp is it hard to seal it up properly? I know a sealed sub has to have no air leaks or else it will sound off so I was wondering how hard it was to reseal around a plate amp and how to do it. I plan on using 3/4" mdf for build material. Also what sort of internal bracing(if any) would I need?
The PE plate amp has a nice foam rubber gasket all the way around the back, so you shouldn't have to use anything to seal it (I would recommend against using any glue/caulking).
See here for manufacturer recommended enclosure sizes.
As Mattak said, they come with a nice foam gasket that works very well. As for sealing around the driver, I used closed cell foam. Easiest thing to do is go to home depot or an auto parts store and find the strip foam used to seal a cap to a pickup truck bed. It's sticky on one side. Stick that side to the cut in the MDF then just bend it over to the mounting face of the MDF and put your screws straight through it. Works like a charm.
My apologies for this unsolicited advice but for HT you might want to think about a ported enclosure rather than a sealed. The first sub I built was sealed and while it sounded good I soon wanted more. I built a ported sub and was much happier with the performance.
Joey I will take all the advice I can get. I know I could probably get more ouput with a ported box I am a little nervous about it though since this will be my first DIY project. Also if I went the ported route I will need a new game plan because the atlas is not recommended in a ported box. Make some suggestions if you want I don't have a problem with that at all. My main objective is to reach the output of a sub that costs more the the DIY sub and to gain experience while building the sub.
The Atlas 15 actually works VERY well in a ported enclosure as well as sealed. We have detailed plans we can supply that take all of the guesswork out of building it too. What kind of enclosure size are you looking to stay within? Let me know.
Chad,
Yeah I would be doing a lot of guesswork so I would love to see your plans. I imagine they are similar to this since the guy was on soundillusions.net, with you giving him input with this website:
I think I might just follow that since it is pretty detailed.
If you have anything to add please let me know though. Because the dimensions on that sub sound just about right and everyting is layed out. Is the eggcrate really necessary? Would some other insulator be better than egg crate? Thanks for your time.
I have only built one sub and it is ported. I am a social worker and have been employed by the state of MIchigan for nearly 29 years, so If I do it, it can't be that hard. It's just one more hole to cut.
OK, I suppose you'd have to learn to calculate how long and wide the port needs to be.
The sub came out great. Even with my lack of skill, it's hard to go wrong with the advice you can get here.
Jack
\"The definition of progress is Chanel #5 on the rocks.\" D. van Vliet
Atlas 15 works for ported, but you need a rather huge box. I'm using a pair in a "rather huge box" myself, but I like the idea of using a single Atlas 15 in about 150l sealed using one of Rythmic Audio's 350w amps with the Linkwitz transform option allowing truly deep extension.
Anyone have any comments about the eggcrate used in the atlas application in the above link? I though stuffing a box was for a sealed subs? Unless the eggcrate serves a diff purpose?
What kind of enclosure size are you looking to stay within? Let me know. 
