Need help with sub choice

Chris Gunn · 11-19-2004, 09:14 AM

First off I would like to say hello to all this is my first post. I have looking around for about 2 weeks now. It is almost winter now so I am working on my HT so I have something to do for the winter.

Here is what I have now

Mitsubishi WS-55315 55" Projection TV
Yamaha htr-5760 receiver
Yamaha NS-6490 bookshelf speakers for surrounds,Center & Back
Cerwin Vega VS-120 fronts
and a JBL PSW-D112 (Amp dose not work)

What I am doing now is I have just bypassed the Amp in the JBL sub because I got it off of e-bay last winter knowing it had a bad amp. The amp that was in there was a 250watt RMS. I am using a old Technics SA-AX540 receiver to power the amp (Bridge front channel) Seems to be working GREAT! For movies but not so good for music. I have put a order in for a QSC RMX850 pro AMP and should have it Monday.

Here is the first Question that I have.

When I play music with the JBL sub it is just kinda muddy now I am not sure how much power I am putting into it but the receiver I am using it on is rated at 100 watts RMS per channel I am bridging it so I think it should be about 200?? The JBL sub is 8ohm. I did use Avia and did a test on the sub and she work nice all the way down to 20 I must say WOW have never felt that before....lol Now would anybody know if I put that QSC RMX850 on that JBL if that would help it not be so muddy when playing music? I Like to play my music loud at times so bass output is very important to me. That is why I have my Cerwin Vegas up front but with the Yamaha 5760 I can't get the bass output I could before with my old receiver so I need to use a Sub.

I have been looking at the Adire DPL12 with the PR15 I would use the sealed box plans for that sub from Acoustic Visions website How would that work for bass output and SLP's? I would use the QSC amp for just the sub too much amp? I am open for any other subs that would work for me the room it would go in is 14' 7" x 12' open into a dinning room that is 13' 4" x 12' 3" both rooms have 8' 6" ceilings. I plan on building my own box as long as I have plans to use. I would like to spend about $200 on just a sub.

Would i 15" work better for me maybe a 18" I dunno this is why I need some help....lol

P.S. Box size in not a problem.

Any input here would be great!

Thanks!

Dean-P · 11-19-2004, 11:06 AM

Here see this thread...should be what you are looking for!
link

Chris Gunn · 11-19-2004, 01:03 PM

Were would I get the tub stuff from? Would a normal box work good too? If so were could a get some blueprints for one. I was looking at that thing and I must say WOW! It is in my price range and that makes it all the more (I HAVE TO HAVE IT!) I will be giving it 830watts with that QSC RMX850 amp. Sorry if my questions seem dumb but I am new to home Subs!

You are talking about the BluePrint 1503 Right?.....lol

Thanks!

Kyle Richardson · 11-19-2004, 01:39 PM

With any sub you can build a sonotube or a traditional box sub. The main differences are that a tube sub will be lighter and quicker to build as you will just have to cut endcaps for it. A box sub will usually take a bit longer to build but you can shape it exactly the way you want for aesthetic reasons.

Sonotube can be found at any concrete specialty business in the diameters required. Usually standard hardware stores will not have the larger diameters required for a sub of that size.

Chris Gunn · 11-19-2004, 01:48 PM

Thanks for the input Kyle!

Is there a different sub that you sell that will give me the performance that I am looking for? I am going to go with the sonotube!

Will a 12" make me happy?

Like I said I like to listen to my Music loud at times and I don't want the bass to fall on it's face if ya know what I mean.....lol

I ordered the Amp from you on Wednesday so that's what I will be using on whatever sub I decide to get. I just want to make sure that what sub I get will make me happy! and at the same time be a good price.

Again Thanks for helping!

**HTF Ads**

Kyle Richardson · 11-19-2004, 02:12 PM

With the room dimensions you listed in your original post and the fact that you just said you like to listen to it "loud" leads me to believe that a 15" will suit you better, but everybody's definition of "loud" is different so it's hard to say for sure.
Also, if the box is designed correctly and a quality driver is used then a 15" will be just as "musical" as a 10" or 12".

As far as particular drivers I offer, you'd better contact me via e-mail so product promotions arent done on the board by the dealer (against the rules).

Chris Gunn · 11-19-2004, 04:39 PM

Here is a update. I ordered the blueprint 1503. I'm going to put it in a sonotube using the link that Dean gave me (THANKS DEAN!) With 830 watts of power going to this mother WOW! I can't wait!

Also want to give a special thanks to Kyle!

You know what costumer service is all about!

Now were do I get 6" AeroPort Flares???

Kyle Richardson · 11-19-2004, 05:42 PM

You probably wont find the 6" Aeroport flares any longer

The best thing to do is to take a large roundover bit to the endcap in order to round over the port opening and position the PVC on the inside of the opening to create the vent.

Shawn Solar · 11-19-2004, 07:05 PM

I've had both a 1503 ported tuned to 19hz and now 22hz. Using the 6" flares in both cases resulted in port noise. Was it audible during music and movie playback? no it wasn't but is still present when driving sinewave and probably if you pushed it really loud and low

It was a lot more noticeable when close to the subwoofer but as long as its about 6ft or more away from you you should be fine. Just to let you know if I could I would probably just save up for PRs.

ThomasW · 11-19-2004, 07:49 PM

Quote:

I've had both a 1503 ported tuned to 19hz and now 22hz. Using the 6" flares in both cases resulted in port noise.

Interesting because I built several high excursion designs using the now extinct 6" flares, and had no chuffing with test tones at literally house shaking levels. All those designs were tuned to ~18Hz.

My experience with PR's is that the sound quality always suffers when they're used. They 'ring' and have 'over-shoot', that tends to smear the transients. They're certainly the only option if one needs/wants the smallest box possible.

Chris G,

If you're going to copy Pete's design (actually a design I created for my friend Pete) note that the PVC port tube used is actually 5.75" ID (that's what fit the AeroPort Flares). Using PVC with 6" ID means a longer port.