Need help deciding on a driver.

Dallas · 07-27-2004, 02:03 AM

I am planning to build a front firing subwoofer. I have the 1000 watt plate amp from Parts Express but I am having a difficult time determining which driver to go with. I want a 15" driver and have narrowed it down to the following:

Stryke Audio AV15 MKII $205
Dayton 15" Titanic MKIII $199
15" DVC High Performance $190

Of all of these I am most excited by the looks of the Stryke AV15 but I don't want looks to be the "driving" factor. Do any of you have any information you can add to any of these drivers that could help me make a decision. As you can tell price is virtually not an issue so which one would have the best performance. I am most interested in chest thumping bass for HT but I do listen to alot of music as well so I don't want it to go boomy at higher SPLs either.

Is there a 15" you think I should seriously consider that isn't on this list?

Thanks,

Dallas

Jack Gilvey · 07-27-2004, 09:23 AM

Since price isn't an issue and you've got 1000 watts to play with...go for a Tumult.

ThomasW · 07-27-2004, 09:34 AM

Jask's right if cost isn't an issue go with the Tumult.

Otherwise look at the BluePrint BP1503

Dallas · 07-27-2004, 09:51 AM

I meant cost wasn't an issue among the 3 drivers I listed (they are all in the same price range.) You are the second person to suggest the Tumult but I think it is a ittle out of my price range right now. However, what makes it such a superior driver (if price indicates superiority)?

Thanks,

D-Rex

Dallas · 07-27-2004, 09:56 AM

The blueprint driver is at the upper limit of my price range but what advantages does it have over the ones I listed that might make it worth the extra expense?

Thanks,

D-Rex

**HTF Ads**

ThomasW · 07-27-2004, 10:10 AM

Well as far as I know the AV-15's aren't yet available.

The DVC15 isn't in the same league as the others.

Compare the T/S parameters of the MKIII and the BP1503.

Darren_T · 07-27-2004, 11:07 AM

I'd be likely to take ThomasW's advice... the BP1503 would be my choice if I had to get another driver. I have the AV15 currently and it is quite nice, you just have the wait to deal with. The BP1503 seems to be well respected and the price is definately right.

Dallas · 07-27-2004, 11:30 AM

I will probably have to wait a few months before I have the funds to purchase the driver and remaining supplies anyway. So, I wouldn't have much of a problem waiting on the AV-15 if it was worth it. I still like the looks of the AV-15, is there anything that can be put over the others that could give them some flash, like an aluminum cone cover or something?

I will certainly add the BP1503 to my list!

Dallas · 07-27-2004, 12:22 PM

Thomas,

Can you help me with this comment or point me to a website where I could learn more about it? This comment is from another thread...

"The material a subwoofer cabinet is made from doesn't matter; as long as the Fs of the cabinet, is out of the passband where the driver is operating."

Are you simply saying as long as you match the size of the box to the requirements of the woofer then what it is made from is irrelevant?

Thanks,

Dallas

ThomasW · 07-27-2004, 12:58 PM

Nope,

What that statement means is that it doesn't matter if a cabinet is made from stone (I think that's the thread where the statement comes from) or wood or concrete or whatever.... IF the Fs (resonant frequency) for the cabinet is out of the passband (frequencies where the driver is operating) of the woofer.

Now this doesn't mean that one can build a 'flexible flyer' (box with lots of wall flex). One still must attend to proper consruction techniques.

Any box has an Fs reaonant frequency (frequency where the box itself naturally vibrates). One doesn't want that frequency to be in the frequencies where the woofer is playing.

For example, if a woofer is playing from 80Hz down to 10Hz. The Fs of the cabinet should be either higher than 80Hz, or lower than 10Hz.

Make sense?

Jack Gilvey · 07-27-2004, 01:53 PM

Quote:

For example, if a woofer is playing from 80Hz down to 10Hz. The Fs of the cabinet should be either higher than 80Hz, or lower than 10Hz.

Guess which is easier, and lighter, to achieve.

Dallas · 07-27-2004, 02:22 PM

How do you determine what the Fs of your cabinet is going to be?