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Old 12-12-2003, 08:58 AM   #1 of 11
Troy R
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Sonosub question


I am thinking of building a sonotube sub with an old SVS driver. Is it ok to use threaded rod inside the sub to sandwich/hold the end caps/plugs together? Meaning they would run the length of the sub. or would they resonate?

Has anyone done this? What were the results? Thoughts?

Thanks!
Troy
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Old 12-12-2003, 10:19 AM   #2 of 11
Jeremy Stockwell
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Troy,

If you're considering building a Sonotube-based sub, you owe it to yourself to thoroughly investigate the Sono Tube Projects Link at the top of the DIY section.

Patrick Sun built 3 different "Sunosubs" that you should definitely look at. On his first, he did use vertical bracing (wood), but not on the other two. Some have made threaded rod work for screwing on top and bottom endcaps while running the full length of the tube as well (DustinB did something similar).

Personally, I don't see the need for vertical bracing and I didn't use it on my Sonotube sub. Tight-fitting endcaps, glue, and caulk worked great on mine.

It's your project, though. Do it how you feel comfortable. That's one of the benefits of DIY.

Good Luck!

JKS




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Old 12-12-2003, 02:23 PM   #3 of 11
Troy R
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Thanks Jeremy!

I've been to the sonosub links page WAY too many times for my own good!

I guess I can always try it and see how it works. This project should be cheap enough to try just about anything!

Thanks!
Troy
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Old 02-13-2004, 07:42 AM   #4 of 11
Troy R
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Alright, I'm FINALLY going to start building my sonosub this week. Is there anything I need to buy from parts express that I can't get at Home Depot or Lowes?

All I can think of is my flared port and speaker terminals...

Anything else?
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Old 02-13-2004, 10:48 AM   #5 of 11
Jeremy Stockwell
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Well, don't expect Lowe's or HD to have sonotube bigger than 12". Other than that they should be able to set you up.

JKS




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Old 02-13-2004, 02:04 PM   #6 of 11
Joe Tilley
 
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I second not really needing the rods. I have built three different ones now all just using some liquid nails & a few drywall screws to hold the end caps. Once that stuff sets up you'll be lucky if you ever get it back apart.

One thing I have done too is router the leading edge on the inside of the caps. That way when you put in the caps you can put some LN on the top edge of the tube & it dosent all just get pushed down. The rounded edge will make it much easyer to fit a tight cap. And when its all in place if you put down enough liquid nails the edge will be filled, just run your finger over it real quick to smooth it out & make sure its sealed good.
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Old 02-13-2004, 05:55 PM   #7 of 11
Mike Keith
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If the driver your using is heavy like the Maelstrom or Tumult then YES definitely use some all-thread rod, the wax coating on the inside prevents a good adhesion of any kind of sealant. For the lighter smaller Sonotubes this probably wont be a problem, but with mine having a double thick bottom plug plus the outer layer and the driver weight there is no way a sealant would hold properly, also a extra heavy bottom will make the sub much more stable and will not walk across a hardwood floor as some have experienced. Another added benefit is the threaded rod sticking out the bottom makes a good place to screw on some feet.
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Old 02-16-2004, 07:10 AM   #8 of 11
Troy R
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Thanks guys! I'm going to start building this weekend. My port should arrive today. I can't wait!

Thanks again!
Troy
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:58 AM   #9 of 11
Troy R
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One other question.

I am going to line the walls of my sonotube with something, I'm just not sure what yet. I was thinking of using the egg crate mattress pad stuff. would this be ok or would I be better off getting sheets of polyfil?

Thanks,
Troy
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Old 02-17-2004, 09:00 AM   #10 of 11
Mike Keith
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Egg crate foam is fine, if you already have some use it, if not the Poly-fill batting is the best choice IMO, it's very easy to work with.
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Old 02-17-2004, 09:28 AM   #11 of 11
Troy R
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