Forum NewsForumsHTF Chat Hardware ReviewsSoftware Reviews HTF Events
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Live Search: 
Web Search: 
 
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum




 
Forum Jump

Forum Sponsors

Home Theater Forum > Home Theater > Members Theaters and HT Projects
[ My 85L Vented Shiva Project Questions ]

Post New Thread  Reply

 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-09-2003, 11:13 PM   #1 of 26
Gerry S
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Local Time: 02:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 124

My 85L Vented Shiva Project Questions


I am making good progress on building my subwoofer, and had a question concerning mounting the plate amp.

I'd like to mount the amp in the cabinet, but don't want to do this if it will have a negative effect on the performance of the sub. The plans themselves make no mention (good or bad) of mounting the amp, so I thought I would see if anyone could give me the thumbs up or down concerning mounting the amp in the cabinet. If I do mount the amp it looks like it must go in the front panel(front according to the plans).

Thanks.
Gerry S is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
sendpm.gif
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-10-2003, 12:05 AM   #2 of 26
Brian Bunge
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Local Time: 02:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 3,999

Gerry,

I've mounted the amp to the back of similar subs many times. I usually just cut out a small "notch" in the brace to allow for clearance for the amp.



Brian Bunge
RAD Home Theater
Brian Bunge is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
sendpm.gif
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-10-2003, 08:09 AM   #3 of 26
Gerry S
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Local Time: 02:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 124

What do you think of mounting it to the "front" where there is no brace? Is there really a "front" to a subwoofer in terms of placement of the sub?
Gerry S is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
sendpm.gif
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-10-2003, 08:58 AM   #4 of 26
Brian Bunge
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Local Time: 02:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 3,999

Gerry,

It really doesn't matter. You can mount it on any of the vertical surfaces. You may even be able to offset to one side so that it doesn't interfere with any of the bracing.



Brian Bunge
RAD Home Theater
Brian Bunge is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
sendpm.gif
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-10-2003, 10:07 PM   #5 of 26
Gerry S
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Local Time: 02:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 124

One more questions concerning mounting the driver. Should I use some T-Nuts or just go with the coarse drywall screws?

thanks,
Gerry
Gerry S is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
sendpm.gif
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
HTF Ads



Sponsored links



Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-10-2003, 10:21 PM   #6 of 26
Brian Bunge
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Local Time: 02:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 3,999

I don't like T-nuts since they have a tendancy to break loose from the MDF. So the coarse thread drywall screws would be a better choice, IMHO.



Brian Bunge
RAD Home Theater
Brian Bunge is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
sendpm.gif
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-14-2003, 10:26 AM   #7 of 26
Gerry S
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Local Time: 02:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 124

I am starting to think about the veneering part of the project. I'd like to round over the vertical corners of the cabinet. The router bit I have is a Crapsman bead/corner bit, and I cant seem to get it to work without a bead. The larger bearing (the one I think I need to use) doesnt have a slinger washer so I cant get it centered.

Anyways I am thinking about buying a new roundover bit. Since I am finishing with 10 mil paperback, are there any suggestions for which size roundover bit to use?

Thanks.
Gerry S is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
sendpm.gif
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-14-2003, 10:45 AM   #8 of 26
Dean-P
Member
 
Join Date: May 2003
Local Time: 12:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 133

3/4" roundover...



Yamaha RX-V730(Pre/Pro)
Rotel RB-956AX (L/C/R)
LG DV7832NXC
Athena AS-B2s (fronts & rears)
Athena AS-C1
JVC AV32D201
95L Vented Shiva
Dean-P is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
sendpm.gif
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-14-2003, 06:33 PM   #9 of 26
Michael Hartwig
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Local Time: 12:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 55

For my Tempest Octagon sub I made a seperate cabinet for the sub amp to sit in and have it positioned with my other audio gear. You only need speaker wire going to the sub cabinet. As for mounting the sub I always use T-nuts. This gives you the most secure mount. The key to sucessful use is to make sure you install them correctly (drill press facilitates in a true perpendicular mounting hole (miss aligned holes is probably the most common cause for failure); the hole has to be large enough to accept the sleeve; hammer the t-nut in (have a solid surface to hammer on), don't try to suck it in with a bolt.) I use T-nuts frequently in my furniture building projects and have had no problems.
Michael Hartwig is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
sendpm.gif
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-14-2003, 06:46 PM   #10 of 26
Larry Alan
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Local Time: 04:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 9

Brian,
I don't understand why the Tee nuts come loose. If they were mounted on the inside with prongs facing toward the outside, they can't come loose. Do you mean they break the mdf because they are so close to the edge? I was planning on using tee nuts, so your input is greatly appreciated.
Larry Alan
Larry Alan is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
sendpm.gif
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-15-2003, 10:04 AM   #11 of 26
Brian Bunge
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Local Time: 02:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 3,999

Larry,

Yes, the T-nut can tear through the MDF; even if it isn't near the edge. I had this happen to me when installing some of the T-nuts for the black chrome spikes that PE sells. I think threaded inserts are a much better solution.

Gerry,

A 1/2"-3/4" roundover will work fine for 10 mil paperbacked veneer.



Brian Bunge
RAD Home Theater
Brian Bunge is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
sendpm.gif
Home Theater Forum
Home Theater Forum
Old 12-16-2003, 09:14 PM   #12 of 26
Gerry S
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Local Time: 02:46 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 124

The plans call for 3.5" long legs. I did that and then rounded over the corners. Problem is I rounded over the top lip on a couple of legs. So if I trim off 1/8" to clean up my blemish I'll end up with legs that are 3 3/8" long. Problem?

I could always just throw some wood putty on the edge and then round it over again as well. What do you guys think?

I probably sound real anal! I just want this to turn out as clean as possible. Plus I also want a good solid surface to attach the veneer to.

In hindsite, I think if I use a fence on my router table I wont have this problem. Live and learn.
Gerry S is offline Quote this post in a PM Send Support Ticket
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!