Veneerer respect

Mark_J_H_Jr · 09-17-2003, 11:28 AM

I have a new found respect for “veneerers”.

I am in the finishing stages of a couple of speaker stands. Made from ¾ in MDF with cherry veneer. I put some ¾ inch radii on the corners of the MDF.

I had a heck of a time keeping the veneer down around the corners and splicing it together. Although I got better after practice, I am really disappointed in the finished product. Some of the things I screwed up were:

Sanded through the veneer

Misaligned the spliced pieces

Glued a piece of wood I was using to clamp to the veneer and ripped the veneer off

Split the veneer going around the ¾ in corners

Split the veneer while gluing it down

Pulled the veneer away at the edges during trim and handling

Did not get the veneer glued down over the corner, left gaps I can push in

Broke the MDF because I clamped too hard

So, I think I covered all of the possible screw ups. Maybe next time I will get it right or at least not make as many mistakes.

Questions, how do you make sure when you wrap veneer around a tight radius, you keep it from gapping? And, when “hammering” the veneer down, how do you know when you’re done? The only way I got it to stay stationary or flat was to clamp the heck out of the surface I was gluing. Even then, if when I was clamping, the veneer moved with respect to the MDF as I tightened the clamps.

I used raw veneer i got for free and used PCV adhesive per John Janowitz. The finish is a product called Deft, and it actually looks very nice. Crappy veneering job and great finish.

I'll just tell everyone I got them custom made from Brian Bunge.

Brian Bunge · 09-17-2003, 11:35 AM

First off, AFAIK, you don't wrap raw veneer around corners!

Secondly, I always sand the veneer by hand so there's little chance of sanding through.

Thirdly, I'm broke enough without you ruining my reputation!

And fourthly, maybe you'll reconsider having someone else build those line arrays for you!

And fifthly are thirdly, fourthly, and fifthly words!

Darren_T · 09-17-2003, 11:40 AM

He he...

Yup, it looks easy don't it

I'd suggest a bit more research before diving in with the veneer next time. Find out how the pro's do it, you'll find a few easy tips will make your life a whole lot easier.

Tip #1: Use contact cement and a J-roller or squeegee
Tip #2: Use 10mil paper backed veneer or NBL
Tip #3: No need for clamps

Darren

AllanRW · 09-17-2003, 11:49 AM

I agree with Brian and Darren.
Do a little research first hand as well as try your method on a sample first before you try to send out a message that a class cabinet maker made your mess.

Mark_J_H_Jr · 09-17-2003, 12:44 PM

Brian,

Quote:

First off, AFAIK, you don't wrap raw veneer around corners!

Hey, it was free. And when I let the adhesive soak in, it softened it up a bit and I could pretty much get it to bend. And, I don't know what AFAIK stands for.

I have some walnut and cherry 4 x 8 NBL sheet that I ordered per your recommendation. The stuff you have to actually buy is expensive, and I am glad I did not use the expensive stuff on this project.

Quote:

Secondly, I always sand the veneer by hand so there's little chance of sanding through.

Those darn power tools get me in trouble all the time.

Quote:

Thirdly, I'm broke enough without you ruining my reputation!

I hope everyone will realize I was joking. Hope you realize it too. I am sure I could not ruin your reputation.

Quote:

And fourthly, maybe you'll reconsider having someone else build those line arrays for you!

You know anyone with any experience building speakers?

Quote:

And fifthly are thirdly, fourthly, and fifthly words!

Microsoft word recognizes them, so they must be.

Darren_T

Quote:

Tip #1: Use contact cement and a J-roller or squeegee

I was trying to get away from contact cement because it stinks up the basement so bad. I am right under the boys bedrooms and I wanted to give a different type of adhesive a try.

I had used contact cement on one of the bases and got yelled at by my lovely life partner that I was killing the children with that obnoxious smell.

AllenRW, sorry I misled you, I was only yanking Brian's chain.

**HTF Ads**

Darren_T · 09-17-2003, 12:52 PM

Mark_J_H_Jr,

The fumes are good for you!

You should definately use the contact adhesive in a well ventilated area... that's for sure.

AllanRW · 09-17-2003, 12:53 PM

I do have to say that the Solvent contact is very hard to take.But it works the best with out getting into costly epoxys.

AllanRW no E
Times like these and boards like this is were a persons rep can be got or broke.
So yarding a chain is one thing even in a fun way on your behave.
Just try to keep the fingers down but use them when they are needed.

All in the fun of this hobby.
And I have got NBL even up to Canada after Brian turned me on to it.
The Teak is nice stuff and just lays over the coners of a 3/4" round over with no force at all.The Maple is a lot stiffer due to the oils in the Teak is is softer.
I am just finishing 4 sets of the Super Elf with them and the Teak worked great I will add.
And shipping to Seattle for the NBL was $14.00

Al

Darren_T · 09-17-2003, 01:25 PM

Mark_J_H_Jr, another tip on fumes!

You can also laminate veneer using standared yellow wood glue or more appropriately Titebond yellow glue in an interesting way. You roll the glue out on the veneer and the cabinet, let it set up a bit so it is tacky to the touch but not extremely wet. You then roll or squeegee the veneer down and use a hot iron to re-activate the yellow glue creating quite a nice bond. It takes a little practice but works. I've tried it. No fumes either

Mark_J_H_Jr · 09-17-2003, 01:41 PM

DT,

Thanks,

I've got some Titebond, but understand that it has the potential to disbond if you let it get hot again. I think I read somewhere that someone had an amp sitting on veneer and Titebond bubbled. I used some of the "iron" on wood veneer years ago and it bubbled too.

I was trying the same sort of thing with the FSV glue, trying to let it dry enough to get tacky and then hammer the veneer down. Varying degrees of success.

Hey, I'm all for the contact cement. I am sure that it would be much better on the corners. I will just have to do it outside and keep peace in the house.

Darren_T · 09-17-2003, 01:51 PM

Mark_J_H_Jr,

I'd have to agree that going outside with the contact adhesive is probably the best way to go. It's nearly fool proof if you are patient with the process. Just be sure to tape the edges of the cabinets off where you already have veneer before rolling on new adhesive on the top and bottom. This will aleviate a HUGE headache as you won't have to try and remove the adhesive from your pretty veneer. Take your time and study your cabinet and get a game plan before getting to business. It will help you isolate possible trouble areas.

Brian Bunge · 09-17-2003, 02:31 PM

Mark,

I knew you were joking. That's why I put a

in my response to that!

Darren,

If we get contact cement on adjacent sides I can usually get it off with mineral spirits. I get the no odor (actually very light odor) kind and it works fine.