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11-19-2001, 05:55 PM
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#1 of 14
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Member
Join Date: Dec 1969
Local Time: 01:30 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 5,445
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Riser Designs?
I'd like to put my 2nd row couch up a bit higher so that heads in the front row aren't a problem--currently they're both down on the floor. Any suggestions as to how high risers should be? How much space in front of the couch to include on the riser? Any design tips?
Thanks
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11-19-2001, 08:12 PM
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#2 of 14
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Local Time: 02:30 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
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I made a riser for my couch which sits behind two 'lazy boy' recliners. I made my riser using 2x6's for the frame and a 3/4" plywood sheet on top. Total heighth is about six & 1/2" including the carpet. I think the riser could be a little higher because if you are slouching in the couch, you can't see over the lazy boys. So I would make it from 2x8's instead.
I couldn't use 2x8's because my theater has a soffit with some air ducts in it. If my riser was any higher I would hit my head on it. To solve the problem with the lazy boys, I just turned them a little so they aren't right in front of the couch. Rather they are off to the side a little bit.
My platform is 4' wide (front to back) and it seems to be perfect for footroom. Length is like 6-7 feet. Whatever the length of my couch is plus some extra.
Good luck!!
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11-19-2001, 08:17 PM
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#3 of 14
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Wes
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Location: Salt Lake City
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Local Date: 11-18-2008
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I used 2x8's with 3/4" plywood then pad and carpet which puts mine at around 8". This seems fine but I can see where 10" could be a bit better for the rear row. We usually have the kids sitting on the front row but if an adult sits up there and sitting up right heads might be in the way a bit.
Wes
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11-19-2001, 09:45 PM
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#4 of 14
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
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Local Date: 11-18-2008
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I'd be interested in finding out
how the frames were constructed.
How many cross pieces, how were they
placed. I've got a Lazy Boy loveseat
and it's fairly heavy.
Dan
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11-19-2001, 09:50 PM
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#5 of 14
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Wes
Member
Location: Salt Lake City
Join Date: Oct 1997
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Local Date: 11-18-2008
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Here is a photo my riser before the plywood. I used 16" centers.
http://prosteering.8k.com/images/zackty.jpg
And you can see other construction photos on my site:
www.prosteering.8k.com
Wes
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11-19-2001, 11:20 PM
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#6 of 14
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Local Time: 02:30 PM
Local Date: 11-18-2008
Posts: 63
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Wes, Thanks for the photo.
Looks pretty straight forward.
I think I'll pay Home Depot a visit
this week.
Nice looking Home Theater. I like
that you painted the doors the same
color as the wall. Mine are white
and my wall color is dark green.
I have two entrances and they kind of
stick out. Maybe I'll buy a can of
green paint when I pick up the
lumber.
Cheers,
Dan.
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11-26-2001, 05:42 AM
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#7 of 14
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Before you arbitrarily pick a height, do some measuring. I put a dummy (box, stick, whatever) in the front row seat at head level. then stand in the back row position and squat down until you can just see the bottom of the screen. Measure this height. Then measure your eye height in your fav seating position in the furniture going in the back row. Difference in these measurements is the height of the riser required. Mine turned out to be 18 inches. Alternatively raising both the seat AND the TV 12 inches worked. You don't want to put in all this work and STILL have a big head in your way 
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12-04-2001, 10:21 PM
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#8 of 14
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Join Date: May 2001
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Local Date: 11-18-2008
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All- Audio Video Interiors addresses this exact topic in the most recent issue. The article is very easy to understand and has some diagrams that make it easy to calculate the necessary riser height(s).
A $5.00 investment in the mag. may save you a a lot of work and frustration after the fact.
Excellent article, Good luck
Brett
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12-05-2001, 12:47 AM
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#9 of 14
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Robert A. Fowkes
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I agree that there is no one "correct" height for the risers that works for all situations. There are many variables (seating arrangement, height of screen off the floor, size of front row seat backs, lines of sight, room dimensions including ceiling height, location of the projector, if applicable, etc.) that contribute to the final dimensions of your second tier riser.
In my case (also viewable on my HT web site) a height of a little under 5 inches, using 2x4's and 3/4" plywood + carpetting, did the trick for me.
Good luck.
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12-05-2001, 01:05 PM
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#10 of 14
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Join Date: Apr 1999
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Remember when putting wood on concrete use treated lumber. that is code in most places.
Lee
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12-05-2001, 01:14 PM
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#11 of 14
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Member
Join Date: Apr 1999
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One other thing, use string to show the throw lines from projector to screen. This way you can then see if the seating with someone sitting will be in the picture. and also this shows you where you can walk or stand up without interfering with the picture. Did this to my own theater so I could fine tune where the seating goes and how high. In my case I moved my seating back a foot and that made a big difference when someone stands up from his or her seat they were not in the picture all this by setting up the throw lines with sting. Use colored string and it looks way cool and easier to see when you are experimenting.
Lee
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04-23-2003, 10:05 PM
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#12 of 14
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Quote:
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Before you arbitrarily pick a height, do some measuring. I put a dummy (box, stick, whatever) in the front row seat at head level. then stand in the back row position and squat down until you can just see the bottom of the screen. Measure this height. Then measure your eye height in your fav seating position in the furniture going in the back row. Difference in these measurements is the height of the riser required.
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Finally! I've been looking at different threads on riser heights and numbers seem to be coming | |