[Steve James]

OK, this may be a silly question, but why frame out using 2x4's or 2x6's, instead of just using furring strips attached to the concret block walls with rigid insulation, then drywall when finishing a basement? Is it just for accoustics?

Thanks,
Steve

[Tom Moran]

I'm not sure there are any acoustic benefits to studs vs. furring strips but I would expect that you might have a difficult time meeting current building codes for R value of insulation with anything smaller than about 2" of rigid insulation. Also keep in mind that you need to wire an outlet roughly every twelve feet to meet electrical codes and doing this without stud walls might be difficult as well.

If you are not going to get your space inspected these might not be issues but if you are I would check local building codes first.

Tom

[Dave Milne]

Tom's right. I used 2x4s so that I could fit R19 insulation (for thermal, not acoustic, reasons. By itself block is a poor insulator; like maybe R3). More importantly, it could be wired like a conventional wall. With furring strips, you would need to run the wire inside the block and knock out openings for electrical boxes... a real pain.

[Steve James]

OK, just saw it in a book. I have an issue on one wall due to the vents above and a pipe that runs almost the length of the wall allowing no place along the 18' wall to secure the top plate to the celing joists. I have no idea how to frame that wall with reg 2x4's

[NathanH]

You could build a soffit around the pipe and vent, then attach the frame to the bottom of the soffit. I'm going to have to do that in a few places in my basement.

[Steve James]

hey nathan, i think i responded to a post of yours in the AVSforum...

I'm looking to do the same thing you are, with the PT lumber base plate, then metal everywhere else. Any sturdiness issue with attaching the wall to the soffit? Do you attach the underside of the soffit to the concret wall?

thanks...

[NathanH]

Indeed you did! Thanks

Quote:

Any sturdiness issue with attaching the wall to the soffit?

Nope. In fact, the two serve to reinforce them. It did stop minor lateral movement in the soffit. Obviously, if both were weak, you might have some issues.

Quote:

Do you attach the underside of the soffit to the concret wall?

I did not attach it to the concrete wall - mainly because I want to avoid weakening the concrete, but also because it wasn't necessary. I constructed the soffit independently, by creating a three-sided 2X2 box, 16" on center, using screws to fasten everything. Then, I screwed the soffit to the floor joists above (open end up ) with 2 1/2" drywall/wood screws. I can hang from the thing and it doesn't move.

[Steve James]

thanks nathan, by the way, i didn't get your zip file on AVS...

[NathanH]

I'll repost

[Wayne A. Pflughaupt]

Quote:

OK, this may be a silly question, but why frame out using 2x4's or 2x6's, instead of just using furring strips attached to the concret block walls with rigid insulation, then drywall when finishing a basement? Is it just for accoustics?

If nothing else, whatever you put on the concrete wall has to be thick enough to drive a nail or sheetrock screw into – unless you plan to glue the wallboard in place.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

[Steve James]

Ok, check out the pics below to see what issues I will have. also, I just measured the height, and looks like I have to go the no permit route due to the 7 ft I will have in the theater area. The rest of the basement will be 7'8"...

My Basement Issues