DIY rack - What to be aware of?

Neil Joseph · 04-03-2003, 08:28 AM

Well, after finishing my DIY screen project, I am just about ready to move onto my DIY rack. I have decided to build a double-wide rack with a total of 3 shelves (for 2 levels of a/v components and the centre speaker on the top shelf). The unit must be black to match my other components so right now, I am thinking of using some kind of black veneer to apply to the shelves.

Is 1/2" MDF good enough? The 3/4" stuff is very heavy. What size of threaded rod works the best, I want to be able to use the ends of the rod to create the 6 feet (legs) for the unit. What else should I watch out for.

Thanks

Allen Ross · 04-03-2003, 09:09 AM

well l just finished my flexy rack yesterday a simple 2 foot wide by 20 inches deep with 4 5/8 rods, but no neoprean washers.

I have to say the most crucial point that you should be aware of is making the holes perfectly perpendicular. I was off a little on some of my holes so it was a little bit of a chalange to slide the rods through.

When me and my dad build a semi HT in our basement this summer we are going to make a huge flexy rack to support every thing it will be sweet as hell.

it is rock solid with only 2 real shelves, i sat on it and gave it a good earthquake test. i now know that it can hold well over 240 pounds and it didn't show anysides of weakness. i am guessing it could take well over 300 maybe even 400 if i had anything that heavy to put on it

Jeff Meininger · 04-03-2003, 09:18 AM

I wouldn't put anything too terribly heavy on 1/2" MDF, but you'll probably be fine if the weight of the heavy objects is spread out over a large area of the shelf it's sitting on, or is concentrated on points near the threaded rods.

Here's mine...

My A/V receiver is a heavy beast of a thing, but it sits on 4 "feet" that are pretty close to the support of the threaded rods. If I had a 50 pound marble bust of beethoven with a 6" diameter round base, I would NOT feel comfortable putting it in the center of one of my panels (or a 1/2" MDF panel).

EDIT: oh, and as for the diameter of the rod, I'd say it depends on the height of your rack. If it's going to be 3-feet tall or less, I'd go with 3/8" rod. If it's going to be taller than that, I'd go with 1/2" rod (especially if heavy items will be placed near the top).

Neil Joseph · 04-03-2003, 09:39 AM

Hmmm, I guess I had better consider that 3/4" MDF since I am going with a double-wide rack and 1/2" threaded rod as well. Can you say heavy?

I will be using PVC tube to cover the rods, much like the commercial racks do. What about making it black (veneer) or even painting?

Jeff Meininger · 04-03-2003, 09:50 AM

My experience with painting in the realm of DIY audio:
- Spraypainted white eggshell finish on sonosub endcaps: major pain in the butt.
- Painted (with a brush!) flat black oil-based enamel on the bottoms of the backs of my DIY tower speakers: major pain in the butt.

I haven't done any veneering, so I can't really comment on that other than to say that folks I know who do a lot of DIY (Hank Frankenberg in particular) seem to prefer veneer to paint.

Here's one concern: surface durability. If you're going to be moving things around on the surface a lot, a painted surface might scratch too easily. No idea how veneer holds up. Laminate (like formica) would be a very durable surface, and is supposed to be a bit easier to apply than veneer. You'll need a router and a flush-trim bit.

I used pine panels with the intention of staining them black one day. I experimented on some scrap wood the other night by thinning some of that pain-in-the-butt flat black oil based enamel with some paint thinner and just wiping it on. The result was a suprisingly nice dark dark dark gray finish that allowed the wood grain to show through and be pretty.

Plus, I imagine my pine planks are at least as strong as 3/4" MDF.

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Bob Friend · 04-03-2003, 09:53 AM

I used 3/4" birch plywood and veneered the edges for my TV stand. My TV weighs 170lbs and I was able to get by without a center support. Plywood weighs a lot less than MDF too.

Picture 1

Picture 2

Troy R · 04-03-2003, 10:10 AM

Jeff Meininger,

What kind of wood is that? Looks like butcher blocks... I realy like the looks of it!

Anthony_Gomez · 04-03-2003, 10:56 AM

Ditto on the above comments. carefull on the holes. no less than 3/4". 3/4" BB will be stronger, lighter, more expensive, and harder to finish (unless you plan on staining/topcoat the BB itself and have sharp tools to prevent burning/chipout).

here is my double rack..not a close up, but it should give you an idea:
http://members.aol.com/auddz/systemnew.jpg
you can also get a peak of it here:
http://members.tripod.com/beyond_gomer/12-2.jpg

Just Fender wachers, 5/8 rods and nuts.
For the center supports, I have through holes. The rods are cut so that they do not penetrate the top surface. I have the underside bolts and washers "about" where they should be. After I put the TV there, I tightened/loosened them till the top shelf was perfectly flat.

Troy R · 04-03-2003, 11:42 AM

A couple more questions for everyone.

Is it better to use 3 or 4 threaded rods? TNT-audio uses 3. Three rods would obviously be easier to level the shelves...

Which would be stonger, 3 or 4?

Would putting two rods in the front and one in the back be ok?