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johnADA · 11-11-2006, 11:06 AM

Depending on the length of the run, insulation used on the pipe or none at all, will determine the drop it will incur. 10 degrees is not abnormal under those conditions.

A flow control valve will all most eliminate the hammering effect you get due to a regulator. The hammering effect is what creates the roll in the tank that mixes the water, thus making it cooler faster than normal.

To drain a tank, depends on the type, electric or gas.Electric is easier since you can remove the elements to have access it aiding the breakup of sediment without a lot of fuse. Either way a coat hanger comes in handy to get a path to the drain where water will begin to flow. It make takes several attempts to get the water flowing decent where the hose for the drain to your crock or whatever will keep a decent flow. You just shut it down, poke, poke, poke until you get flow and let it run water through until its clean. If sediment had concreted, which is likely when it isnt serviced often, thats where and electric offers its advantage having access easier.

I switched back over to and electric due to the fact of these properties. In the long haul the electric ends up being more efficient than a gas one, but not when new and the time in which I installed it, which now demand ones are the way. I also where possible run pipe insulation to minimize the drop which allows me cooler settings to be used.

11-11-2006, 11:06 AM	#6 of 11
johnADA Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Local Time: 10:43 AM Local Date: 11-19-2008 Posts: 126	Re: Water heater temp setting??? Depending on the length of the run, insulation used on the pipe or none at all, will determine the drop it will incur. 10 degrees is not abnormal under those conditions. A flow control valve will all most eliminate the hammering effect you get due to a regulator. The hammering effect is what creates the roll in the tank that mixes the water, thus making it cooler faster than normal. To drain a tank, depends on the type, electric or gas.Electric is easier since you can remove the elements to have access it aiding the breakup of sediment without a lot of fuse. Either way a coat hanger comes in handy to get a path to the drain where water will begin to flow. It make takes several attempts to get the water flowing decent where the hose for the drain to your crock or whatever will keep a decent flow. You just shut it down, poke, poke, poke until you get flow and let it run water through until its clean. If sediment had concreted, which is likely when it isnt serviced often, thats where and electric offers its advantage having access easier. I switched back over to and electric due to the fact of these properties. In the long haul the electric ends up being more efficient than a gas one, but not when new and the time in which I installed it, which now demand ones are the way. I also where possible run pipe insulation to minimize the drop which allows me cooler settings to be used.