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Steve Schaffer · 11-16-2003, 07:29 PM

Jason,

have someone drain out the gas--I work on Toyotas for a living and I'm pretty sure the tank on a 92 Celica has a drain plug in the bottom. The tank is located roughly under the back seat btw, and if it has a drain plug it's usually a 14mm. If there's no drain plug you can siphon it out more effectively thru the gas guage sending unit openning.

Remove the back seat cushion (pull up firmly at the front edge of the cushion where it meets the car floor at the right and left sides). There will be an access plate in the floor under the cushion which you can remove to get at the sending unit and/or fuel pump mounted to the top of the tank itself, which is easily removable.

Condensation in gas tanks is more likely if there are severe temperature changes, which you might not have in Texas vs say North Dakota.

The best course of action would be to refill with fresh gas and have the car driven 20 miles or so once a week. If it must remain undriven, leave the tank empty with the fuel cap off to unseal the system and thus prevent the condensation.

The main benefit to putting it up on blocks would be to prevent the tires from flatspotting but that's already occurred if it was going to.

Before restarting the car, drain out the old oil and change the filter. Refill with fresh oil. Disable the ignition/efi systems by removing the fuse marked "EFI" in the fusebox under the hood. Charge up the battery (you may need a new one after this long). Crank the engine with the starter repeatedly for about 5 seconds at a time, maybe 5 times or so to get oil pumped around the engine, then re-install the fuse and start the car. It may not idle warm at first, just drive it around a bit until the EFI computer "relearns". Ignore any smoke it produces on the initial startup--after sitting so long some oil may sneak down past the valve stem seals and cause a cloud of blue smoke on startup. It also may take an extended crank to get it started and it may flood so you may have to floor the gas pedal while cranking until it starts to catch then gradually ease up.

The front rotors and rear drums may be rusted and cause brake pulsation and/or god-awful noises at first but should scrub clean with use.

Drive the thing around for a few days and all should be well. It may develope some oil leaks due to sitting idle so long and gaskets drying out but it's usually just the valve cover gasket and distributor "O" ring on that engine--not major projects to replace.

11-16-2003, 07:29 PM	#7 of 9
Steve Schaffer Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Local Time: 03:54 PM Local Date: 12-04-2008 Posts: 5,000	Jason, have someone drain out the gas--I work on Toyotas for a living and I'm pretty sure the tank on a 92 Celica has a drain plug in the bottom. The tank is located roughly under the back seat btw, and if it has a drain plug it's usually a 14mm. If there's no drain plug you can siphon it out more effectively thru the gas guage sending unit openning. Remove the back seat cushion (pull up firmly at the front edge of the cushion where it meets the car floor at the right and left sides). There will be an access plate in the floor under the cushion which you can remove to get at the sending unit and/or fuel pump mounted to the top of the tank itself, which is easily removable. Condensation in gas tanks is more likely if there are severe temperature changes, which you might not have in Texas vs say North Dakota. The best course of action would be to refill with fresh gas and have the car driven 20 miles or so once a week. If it must remain undriven, leave the tank empty with the fuel cap off to unseal the system and thus prevent the condensation. The main benefit to putting it up on blocks would be to prevent the tires from flatspotting but that's already occurred if it was going to. Before restarting the car, drain out the old oil and change the filter. Refill with fresh oil. Disable the ignition/efi systems by removing the fuse marked "EFI" in the fusebox under the hood. Charge up the battery (you may need a new one after this long). Crank the engine with the starter repeatedly for about 5 seconds at a time, maybe 5 times or so to get oil pumped around the engine, then re-install the fuse and start the car. It may not idle warm at first, just drive it around a bit until the EFI computer "relearns". Ignore any smoke it produces on the initial startup--after sitting so long some oil may sneak down past the valve stem seals and cause a cloud of blue smoke on startup. It also may take an extended crank to get it started and it may flood so you may have to floor the gas pedal while cranking until it starts to catch then gradually ease up. The front rotors and rear drums may be rusted and cause brake pulsation and/or god-awful noises at first but should scrub clean with use. Drive the thing around for a few days and all should be well. It may develope some oil leaks due to sitting idle so long and gaskets drying out but it's usually just the valve cover gasket and distributor "O" ring on that engine--not major projects to replace. Steve S. I prefer not to push the subwoofers until they\'re properly run in.