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Eclipse 88120dvc from my car to the theater

#1
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11/1/09 at 3:35pm
  • Joined: January 2003
  • Post Count: 36
Hey guys, first of all, I did a search on this and came up empty...  Anyway, I'm wanting to take the subwoofer out of my car and build a home theater subwoofer.

This would be used both for movies and music, so I don't want to sacrifice sound quality.  I'd like it to be able to play pretty low.  I am willing to do ported or sealed- depends on what you experts tell me.  If you tell me ported, I'd like the ports to be 3" diameter (I have flanges that will fit 3").

Not sure what will power it.  I'd take suggestions there as well.

Thanks for any help!
jeff



I have the DVC Model
 
  • Santoprene Surround
  • Aluminum Cone
  • Dual Mirror-Image Spiders
  • Aluminum Voice Coil Former
  • "Bottomless" Design
  • Aero-Vented Pole Piece
  • Cast Aluminum Frame
  • Double-Stacked Magnet
  • Small Sealed-Box Enclosure
  • Continuous Power Handling: 500W
  • Music Power Handling: 1,000W
  • New Dual Voice Coil (88120DVC)

    DVC = DUAL VOICE COIL
     

88120DVC

88120.4

Fs:

29Hz

@

28Hz

Qts:

0.34

@

0.29

DCR:

3.0/coil

@

3.1

Vas:

2.68cuft

@

2.68 cuft

Xmax:
 (one way)

1.17

@

1.17

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#2
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11/1/09 at 7:20pm
  • Joined: August 2000
  • Location: Southaven, MS
  • Post Count: 4,539
Let me dig up some more detailed specs but it should work out pretty good.  It's a nice TC Sounds built sub with a TC-9 motor structure on it.
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#3
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11/2/09 at 7:20am
  • Joined: January 2003
  • Post Count: 36
Thanks Robert!
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#4
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11/2/09 at 8:00am
  • Joined: August 2000
  • Location: Southaven, MS
  • Post Count: 4,539
Based on a Google search, I used Qes of .32 and Qms of 5.  From there, I calculated a low Qtc (.5) would be one cubic foot net, heavily stuffed.  That would be the easiest to build and provide you a very good response in a small room.  Power it with a Behringer A-500 - http://www.guitarcenter.com/Behringer-A500-500W-Reference-Class-Studio-Power-Amplifier-480780-i1145440.gc.

For ported, four cubic feet with an Fb of 18hz.  Same amp but use a subsonic filter set at 17hz or 16hz.  One from eD or Creative Sound dot CA (Reckhorn model) would work fine.  I think the 4 cubic foot design at the CS site would be a great starting point.  Just use longer ports and don't build the little thing for the plate amp.  It's a very, very sturdy design.
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#5
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11/2/09 at 3:47pm
  • Joined: January 2003
  • Post Count: 36
Wow, thanks Robert!  thats great info.  I'll probably try it sealed first.  I could not find the 4cf design at the CS site.  Any chance you can link that directly?  That amp looks great.  Would you put that above a plate amp??

Thanks a ton!
jeff
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#6
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11/2/09 at 4:35pm
  • Joined: August 2000
  • Location: Southaven, MS
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I'd use the 1st design for sealed and the 3rd design for ported.  When you do the ported, just use 3" PVC and elbows to get the correct port length.

http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/SubDuction-plans-290307.pdf

Yes, I would use that amp over a plate amp.  1.  Pro amps offer more power per dollar.  2.  Your sub is a dual 4 ohm model.  Wiring it up at 8 ohms would cut your plate amp's power by 1/3 or 1/2.  The A-500 is perfect for driving a dual 4 sub.  3.  Yes, you will need a SSF for a ported design but you still come out ahead money wise.  To get similar power you would need to use the 1,000w plate amp from PE which costs $450.  4.  I am a Behringer user.  I have an EP-2500 running dual 15" TC-3000's with a Feedback Destroyer providing EQ.  My subs are flat to 17hz with usable output at 14hz and can go to insane levels without straining.
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#7
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11/4/09 at 1:04pm
  • Joined: January 2003
  • Post Count: 36
Ok, I'm sold on the amp.

Having a problem with the ports.  The online calculator for port length i use said something like 12" or so for length.  Problem is, what about multiple ports?  it only allows me to input for one port.  so, how do i calculate it for two?  Also, am I ok just eliminating the little amp box and using the current dimensions?  Or do I need to compensate for the gain of that area and make the whole thing smaller?

Thanks so much!

jeff
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#8
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11/4/09 at 2:36pm
  • Joined: August 2000
  • Location: Southaven, MS
  • Post Count: 4,539
The amp box should be eliminated.  The air spaced gained will be used up by the longer ports.

Dual 3" ports need to be 65.11cm or 25.6 inches each.  You will need to use a PVC elbow.  Those are about $6 each at Lowes.  If possible find the thin wall PVC.  My Lowes only carries the thick wall stuff.  You will save a fraction of a liter of air space but it will be lighter overall.  If you can't find it, you may need to brace the ports internally so they don't move if you drop the box.
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#9
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11/4/09 at 5:38pm
  • Joined: January 2003
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Do I need both ports?  can I achieve the same results with one?  If so, what length?
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#10
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11/4/09 at 6:39pm
  • Joined: August 2000
  • Location: Southaven, MS
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Yes, you need both ports.  Running a single port will produce chuffing at moderate volume.  Heck, dual ports will still chuff but at a much higher volume.  Your sub is built by TC Sounds.  I have about a dozen of their drivers in my house so I know what they are capable of.
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