How much can a wall hold?

I know odd question....

 

So, I have a 52" Samsung Series 5 hanging off my wall from two studs using a SANUS wall mount that has an extendable arm to pull the tv out from the wall like 20" or something. I have two lag bolts on each side of the moutn going into two studs.

So far everything has been solid and I am pretty comfortable with it on the wall. I rarley pull it out from the wall, partly because I dont see the point and partly because I dont trust pulling the tv out that far and it not rip out from the wall or something.


My question stems from the fact that I have built a custom shelving unit out of 5/8" MDF that is going to float off the floor and hang off the same wall just under the TV. I plan on lag bolting it to three studs on that wall, two of which are already supporting the above TV. This shelf will only hang from the wall no feet. The unit weighs 60 pounds right now sitting in my garage and is about 4 feet long. Obvioulsy more when I throw the TV box, DVD player, receiver and Xbox on it.

Think this is to much for the wall. I am thinking it might be better to install legs and not mount it to the wall afterall.

Thoughts?

Edited by libtech - 8/15/2009 at 06:01 am GMT

I would say you should be ok. As long as you are fastened securely into the studs and your house is well build.  I mean it is really about weight transfer, Your studs connect to a top plate which connects to the roof joists, and a bottom plate that either attaches to a concrete slab or to floor joists depending if you have a slab, basement or crawl space. in some construction they even put cross braces horizontaly between the studs for extra support.  If you can try to mount stuff to load bearing walls, they are strongest. they  can be determined by which way your roof sits. The roof is composed of triangular trusses, your load bearing walls will always run front to back within the triangle trusses, so that all trusses sit on top of the load bearing wall. also exterior walls on the sides ( Long walls) are usualy load bearing too.  As long as your not hanging heavy stuff that sticks out more than 24 inches I think it will hold. hope this helps.

(another hint for finding a load-bearing wall: it will always connect to the foundation.  If there's a basement, it'll be sitting on an I-beam with columns (or another wall) supporting it.)

Anyway, the deeper the shelf, the more trouble you're likely to have -- mostly from the lever-action of the shelf.  Angle-braces below, or legs from the shelf itself down to the floor will help with those concerns, too.  In this situation, I think you're less likely to harm the wall than to have a shelf failure, where it decides "enough is enough" and dumps down, dropping everything on it on the floor.

Leo

Libtech,
   I have installed many wall units like these and even larger. I would use a milk crate or another desired spacer. Sit the unit on it and remove it when finished adding the screws. You can 3 1/2 or 4 inch sheetrock screws- they are definately strong enough, especialy if you use at least 6 to 8. 3 to 4 inch sheetrock screws are thicker than the 1 to 2 1/2 inch ones.Just remember, the more screws you use the more the load is shared and distributed. The size wall unit you are describing will not come down unless you take it down.

Erik

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I have a question similar to this. I am in the middle of remodeling the basement of my house partially due to moisture issues. The walls are currently cinder block with studs nailed to them. The current studs are going to be removed, the nail holes plugged, and the wall sealed with thoroseal to block moisture from seeping through the walls. The problem I have is that when the studs are reattatched to the sealed wall they are going to have to be glued with some sort of construction glue such as Liquid Nails. I plan to turn the basement into a home theater room but have not yet decided if I'm going to go with a large LCD/plasma or a projector and screen. My concern is that the glue isn't going to be strong enough to hold a large flatscreen television without pulling the studs away from the wall. One thing that I have considered is using a row of studs, instead of just one, in the middle of the wall to distribute the weight. Has anyone delt with a similar issue, or have a suggestion on making sure there is enough support a 200 pound plasma?

DaSouthWon, what I would do in thi situation is, yes use the glue or liqiud nails. Also, the new framed wall should be connected to the floor of your basement by concrete bolts and connected to the ceiling of the basement either to a top plate or right to the joists.  Once you connect the top and bottom you might not even need glue, but good for extra safety.

Brian. Are the studs you're refering to 1x3 furring strips, or 2x4 studs. If you are going to use 2x4's for a wall, I would suggest you build the wall like a normal studded wall. About 1 inch away from the block. 16 inches on center with a treated bottom plate and the top plate attached to the floor joists above. This will make the wiring easier (deeper boxes) and you can also insulate with R-13 and don't forget to use a vapor barrier. Just a thought. My apologies to the op for the threadjacking.

The problem with the original studs, which I have now torn off of the cinder block wall, is that they layed flat (4" side attatched to the blocks) including the top and bottom plate. If I understand your suggestion correctly I should rebuild the wall, in the normal construction fashion, but unattatched to the cinder block wall. I see no problem with doing it this way, I believe the original wall was constructed in the way it was, was because it was only designed to support wall paneling. My 120v conduit comes in from the ceiling for each outlet.

The next question I have may be better posted on a construction forum but I'll ask anyway. Regarding the moisture barrier you suggested I place between the block wall and studded wall. I had considered using something like a heavy mil visqueen between the studs and blocks even after I sealed the blocks. My concern is that any moisture that does get in will be trapped between the plastic and walls and inhibit new mold growth. Is this a valid concern? I have a feeling that there is no real way to moisture "proof" a basement, only make it water resistant.