What's needed for an Atari 2600? (1 Viewer)

[Greg_S_H]

I decided to break out the Atari 2600, but I have an issue to overcome. I need a replacement power supply, which is easy. But, somehow the end of the a/v cable that is outside the 2600 got ripped off. I was gladdened to discover that it is not hardwired inside the unit, so I just unplugged it. But, I'm not sure what I could replace it with. Is a male-to-male RCA cable what I need? I know the inside end looked like a male RCA plug, but I have no idea what the other end looked like and I have no idea if a generic RCA cable will replace what was in there. I know I will then need a "RCA Female to F type Coax Male adapter," and that's no big deal once I replace the cable. From looking on YouTube, it looks like the other end was also a male RCA, so I just need to know if a generic cable is fine.

Thanks.

BTW, it's a light sixer, if that matters. Also, some say you can just run any of the colored ends of a composite cable out of there, and others say that won't work. You might want to act like I don't know anything about different cables, which is probably true.

 

[Martino]

If I remember correctly - the cable went into a switch box - that then connected to the TV - so you could switch between Game and Antenna...

I am not sure if you actually need this switch box or not - but I am pretty sure that I didn't just plug in the RCA connector..

Usually - the RCA composite connections are for either video or audio - not both in 1 cable - so I'm not sure how you would hook this up without an adapter.

 

[LeoA]

He doesn't need the tv type switch box. That's what the F type adapter he mentioned will do, allowing him to bypass those horrible things that just introduced static. He just plugs the cord from his 2600 into the opposite end of this adapter, and plugs the end of the adapter shown in the picture into the coaxial input of his television.

His problem is with the video/audio out RF cable out of the console itself. I'm a classic gamer and love the 2600, but I'm afraid I don't have the answer for that particular question. I suspect a regular RCA cable can be used as a 1:1 substitute given their similarity (Although I think you'll need a female connector at one end of the cable where it plugs into the 2600), but don't hold me to that.

But you'll have no trouble getting the answers you need at AtariAge.

http://atariage.com/forums/forum/16-atari-2600/

Do you know of video mods for the 2600? If you're up to the job or willing to spend perhaps $100 at the most to have someone else do the work for you, you can leave RF behind completely and enjoy improved video and sound. There's even a RGB mod these days, I believe, which is certainly superior to the composite/S-Video mod that I run these days on my 4 switcher.



And there's likely a HDMI solution in the works as well, likely leveraging the newfound ability to generate a RGB signal out of a 2600 (although a quick check of the AtariAge hardware sub forum doesn't show any topics on HDMI mods as of yet).

Usually - the RCA composite connections are for either video or audio - not both in 1 cable - so I'm not sure how you would hook this up without an adapter.

He's just wondering if he can substitute a RCA cable for the 2600's stock RF cable that he discovered has had the connector ripped out of it, given the similarity with the plugs.

Usually - the RCA composite connections are for either video or audio - not both in 1 cable - so I'm not sure how you would hook this up without an adapter.

The key thing here is we're talking RF, not composite. A stock Atari 2600 was RF only and can't deliver a composite signal without aftermarket modifications.

RF like the 2600 natively outputs is what VHF screws accepted on older CRT's, what your coaxial cable delivered to your CRT if it was cable-ready, etc. The audio and video signal is intermixed with RF, unlike the more sophisticated composite connection that separated the video signal from the audio for higher quality.

 

[DaveF]

Why would anyone play the Atari 2600 version of Pitfall over the superior Intellivision version?

(It's like being in 6th grade again! )

Good luck getting your Atari hooked up!

 

[Greg_S_H]

Sorry, I wasn't able to get back until now. Thanks for the answers, and your detailed information, Leo. I ended up ordering a cheap, busted 2600 to get the rf cable (along with an adapter and a power supply from separate auctions) after being told that currently manufactured rf cables have too big connectors to use with the lid closed. After that, I looked in one more place in my house and found an rf cable with a short connector that would allow it to work closed. I think it is from my Coleco, so having an authentic Atari rf cable in addition will at least allow me to get my Coleco working alongside the Atari. This is, of course, assuming the Atari even still works after all of this.

If I was to get into spending money to mod out an old system, it would probably be the NES. But, I might just get the RetroUSB AVS, which should be all I would ever need for improved NES play.

 

[LeoA]

Atari's were built like tanks, so I bet it still works.

Being a light sixer, it might even be American made which is all the better for its longevity. I think they switched to Taiwan partway through production of this first revision of the system, after the initial Sunnyvale made heavy sixer.

The Colecovision's cable must be different than the Coleco ADAM counterpart if you could've used it here, since my ADAM's cable (Coleco's disastrous entry into the computer world with a Colecovision based PC, which doomed the creator of Cabbage Patch Dolls) has a male plug at each end where as the 2600 needs a female connector at the console end.

 

[Greg_S_H]

It's male at both ends, so I'm probably right that it's for my Coleco and wrong that it would work for my Atari. I guess it's good that I bought the broken system!

Unfortunately, my Atari says made in Taiwan.

 

[LeoA]

All mine are Taiwan built and all four are still kicking (Two woodgrain 4 switchers, a black 4 switcher that fans nicknamed the Darth Vader model, and a 2600 Junior).

I've never had any of mine open to see inside and even if I did, it doesn't mean the light sixer was the same. But the replacements I saw at a few sites yesterday when I first read your post looked like this.

I'd love to get a heavy sixer someday, with the RGB mod done to it.

 

[Rodney]

Enjoying this thread and seeing that Pitfall video makes me want to search the garage and see if I can pull out my old Atari 2600 and play some Pitfall, Chicken, Demon Attack, etc.

 

[Greg_S_H]

Did those sites mention where to get those?

I think the first game I'll play is Adventure, since that's the first game I remember playing. Pitfall II is probably the best one I have, though.

 

[LeoA]

I believe what I found were actually retailer listings. I'll dig them up in a bit and post some links, if I'm correct.

I still need to master Adventure. Never have beat game 3, which is the real game with the full world and randomized item and enemy placements (Unlike the easy game 1 that anyone can beat in short order).

 

[Greg_S_H]

My power supply came in, and I hooked the system up using a generic RF switcher I had laying around. Things looked awful, but it powered on and I got video. I don't have an Atari stick, so I was using my Genesis controller. With Adventure, I got a screen with a number 1 in the middle and I had no idea how to advance past that. I put in Seaquest and was able to play. I couldn't figure out how to continue after I died. I'm not sure the reset button is working. Hopefully, when I get the replacement RF cable in I'll close the thing up and be able to use the console switches better.

The generic RF switcher looked awful with my Genesis as well, so I think there's something wrong with it.

I also was able to get my Colecovision working, but the controller seems busted. Again, the Genesis controller worked for Zaxxon, but I'm not sure how to pick numbers without the original controller (that works, and the stick works stiffly, but the side buttons didn't fire shots). It looked awful with the same RF switcher. I do have the original Coleco switcher box, but I can't use it and won't need it once my RF-to-coax adapter comes in.

 

[LeoA]

I'm afraid even in the best of conditions, RF isn't going to look good on a modern television. And even on a nice SD CRT where you don't have a scaler butchering the video, you'll likely be encountering static.

I think time has really hurt RF capabilities in classic consoles. I don't know if it's just internal degradation as the components age and creep out of spec slightly, all the wireless clutter of the modern world on hardware shielded for a world circa 1980 without cell phones and such, or a combination of the two.

But the static is just horrible for me and many others in recent years and one reason why video mods are gaining popularity for classic systems, as seen by that earlier YouTube shot that looked like it was a 2600 emulator on a PC since it looked so good.

I've had to replace my Atari 7800's power button, so hopefully that's something doable for the 2600's reset switch as well, if it comes down to that.

If you have any 3rd party Colecovision games, they didn't take advantage of the keypad nearly as much as the Coleco published fare did that you can't even start a game in without it.

 

[Bryan^H]

Spy Hunter utilized the Colecovision controller, but that was about the only third party I can think of that did. Most others games were perfectly fine with two button and no numeric touch buttons.


I often think about getting back to the Atari 2600. It would be first and foremost about nostalgia as it was the first system I ever played. Still remember my favorites-Spider Fighter, Krull, Joust, and Missle Command.
Blows me away you can still get case fresh factory sealed games for $20 or less on E-Bay. There must have been billions of carts made at its peak.

 

[Greg_S_H]

I got started on this nostalgia kick because I wanted to play TMNT: The Manhattan Project on my NES. I then just wanted to get my other systems working, and now I am interested in playing my Atari, though it doesn't hold up as well as the NES onward. The biggest revelation for me right now is the Genesis. I know it was known for having weaker colors than the SNES, but TMNT: Hyperstone Heist and Sonic just look gorgeous and vibrant. I'm used to playing Sonic on my 3DS, so it's really cool seeing it on the big screen (and though it sounds like I just got a Genesis, this is all stuff I owned back then and haven't looked at since the early '90s).

I'm trying to get my SNES and my CRT (a Sony Vega, often spelled Wega) from my sister so I can play Turtles in Time. She doesn't even know if she still has them, though.

. . .

Now we're getting far afield of the topic of this thread, but I've seen an RGB SCART cable for the Genesis Model 1. If I got this and a SCART to HDMI adapter, should this work fine on a US Genesis?

Spoiler

Edit: According to My Life in Gaming, this works but is less than ideal. I guess you get what you pay for (around $35).

 

[LeoA]

As far as I know, that will work just fine without modification. You might also be interested in the new HD Retrovision component cable for it. It's a plug and play cable that taps into the RGB video signals and converts it to component, avoiding the need to buy a SCART to HDMI adapter and the like.

The only issue there is that some HDTV's don't like 240p via component, as many early HDTV adapters discovered back over a decade ago when they couldn't play Ico or PS1 games on their PS2 connected via component (Forcing a swap back to composite or S-Video). But these guys say that HDTV situation has improved in the years since then.

http://www.hdretrovision.com/genesis/

It's not particularly related to the main topic, but I was reminded looking at my ADAM just now that there's a good trick with many Colecovision games to avoid the awful stock controller.

You'll still need a controller with a keypad to start many games, but just plug in your favorite Atari compatible joystick into port #2 (such as your Genesis gamepad) and you'll be able to swap to it after selecting your game option.

Obviously doesn't work too well if the game utilizes the keypad or the 2nd fire button during gameplay, but most thankfully didn't.

 

[Greg_S_H]

That sounds like a good option. My TV is probably a 2015 model (Samsung), so maybe those problems were sorted. It's worth a try.

I always wanted to play some of the Adam versions of games like DKjr. and Zaxxon. Too bulky and expensive for me to get into now. I am thinking of getting a Sega CD and 32x, both of which I passed on in the '90s (I was stupid enough to waste money on a Jaguar).

 

[LeoA]

That sounds like a good option. My TV is probably a 2015 model (Samsung), so maybe those problems were sorted. It's worth a try.

If you happen to have a PS2 around the house and component cables, it will be easy to find out. Just pop in any PS1 disc and see what the result is. If you get a picture, you should be good to go.

I always wanted to play some of the Adam versions of games like DKjr. and Zaxxon. Too bulky and expensive for me to get into now. I am thinking of getting a Sega CD and 32x, both of which I passed on in the '90s.

There's actually a homebrew Colecovision expansion module called the Super Game Module that adds additional ram and I think some other doodads, which allows the tape games like the four screen Donkey Kong prototype to be ran in cartridge form. Here's a demo video of the tape version of Dragon's Lair, running on the Super Game Module via cartridge.



There's also an arcade perfect port of Donkey Kong coming for it (Minus a bit of sprite flicker, it's 100% accurate) and some other homebrews, although it's mostly MSX ports (A Japanese computer that had similar architecture to the Colecovision).

I was stupid enough to waste money on a Jaguar.

With the right games, it's not such a bad mistake.

Tempest 2000, Super Burnout, the best console versions for a number of years of Wolfenstein 3D and Doom, Alien vs. Predator which is an absolutely amazing first person shooter for a 1993 game console, and several others.

 

[Greg_S_H]

The Atari I bought for the av cable came in. The guy didn't have a power supply, so he didn't know if it worked. I tested that first and it works fine. The outside is cosmetically alright, but the screws were all rusted and all the metal parts inside were rusted. The color/b&w switch is broken off. But, the cable works fine with my Atari and now things look good.

Sadly, the rusted unit's switches actually work better than mine. Everything works immediately. I had to keep pushing my select and reset buttons down to get them to work. I guess it's like a dusty pot on an amp that gets less staticky the more you work it. Hopefully, working them will make them work more responsively, because I really don't feel that comfortable taking them apart to really clean them.