velodyne's the best? (1 Viewer)

[steve nn]

Michael very good post. When I ran one ct 150 I went to 5 a few times on the gain and it was kind of scary. I thought to myself this can't be good for the sub--my house was starting to crumble. I run two now stacked and each of them is set at 2-3 and I don't worry about being to hard on them. It is still running hot though.> I am 100% HT basically. Good excuse! Running one at 2 on the sub gain and the receiver set to +1 gives me calibration. I find when I put my gain on the receiver to 0--+2 it does much better than having it at -5 or whatever. Having a Y helps with the auto function to and does improve gain on the ct and cht models- one in the same, different grills. I noticed Tomes reply as I always do and thought it rather Top-notch of him. I wonder what driver vel uses in the cht 15?

 

[Sheldon]

Michael...Thanks very much.When I get home I will set it up the way that you suggest.

 

[Michael Roderiques]

Steve

The drivers in the CT and CHT are made by the same company but are slightly different. The changes are minor and really you should not notice or hear any change. On an oscilloscope you may see some minor differences in the performance of the electronics. Should have actually cleaned the unit up as far as distortion measurements go.

The driver is a custom design unit made for Velodyne, actually all the drivers used in Velodyne products are custom design.

When running two sub stacked, do not daisy chain them, feed signal to each unit from your source. If you have one sub out, run a single cable over to the subs, then “Y” to each sub. And yes a “Y” to the left and right will help with the auto on as well.

The best way to calibrate two subs like you have is do the same thing as a single, but turn one off, calibrate one as described, then shut it off , turn the other back on and use the gain control on the sub to dial it in. should be the same spot as the first

The CT-150 and CHT-15 seem to run a tad warm compared to the smaller units. I think the heat sink is a little small for the amp. just make sure you have air flow around the unit

I know one place that has 4 of the CHT-15's that run about 18 hours a day. no problems.

 

[steve nn]

Thanks Michael for the info. You sure know Velodyne. When I said hot- I meant "dB hot", sorry I don't clarify very well in my posts. I did try the daisy option when I first went with the two sub approach but could tell not all was well. I then went with the Y's at each sub and a Y at the sub out on the receiver and all was good. Thank you for the tip on calibrating two subs. I did not know that. I have checked out the heat sinks and they are just fine with two running. I used to warm the one up and when I daisy-ed them the first in line would get hot. The meter showed me the first was doing most of the work and it is important to have both using a Y. I figured so but I ran out of Y's. Question?--Using the method you describe would I not need to calibrate each sub -4 to -6 dB because of the +4 to +6 dB gain I get with the stacked configuration?

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Vels are nice if you want a small box, and they've got circuitry built in try and compensate for the lack of enclosure volume. They're also pretty "idiot-proof" due to the limiters that cap the deep bass output, so you shouldn't be able to bottom them.

 

[AaronD]

Jack,

I've noticed the limiters in my SPL-1000, it seems to cut off just under 20hz. Doesn't this affect the impact of the sub adversely?

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[Michael Roderiques]

Steve
It is best to get a starting point. even when using two subs stacked. while true that a configuration like you have should provide a gain in output, you might be surprised at the amount.

That is why a start point is needed. After the first calibration, if the system is a little over reference, say 2 or 3db, most people won't notice that, when you start getting into the 6db + range people start to notice that, then its a fine tune, what you would do is to use the SPL meter and set the subs at say 4 db lower.

Another trick you can use is to set the sub volume at a spot, say the 4th dot. set your receiver at "0". take a test tone reading. then go to +1. get a reading then +2 and so on. This will show you what each step is adding or subtracting form the signal. If it is say 5db per step, then do a calibration like before, only at the +1 step. This way you can drop the receiver back to "0" and everything should be fine.

The idea is once you set the subs, not to make a change to the sub, but adjust at the source. The remotes on most systems today will get you to the menu to make the level adjustment, with out a lot of fuss.

 

[Tom Brennan]

Bunkie---The ServoDrive Contrabass has incredible output with low distortion at very low frequencies, I heard a pair shaking a hotel with frequencies we couldn't even hear. This is prosound gear but lots of people use prosound gear in houses.
www.chicagohornspeakerclub.org

 

[steve nn]

Thanks Michael. I notice I do get a general 4-6 db gain and I do notice. I do adjust my gain at the receiver with the remote like you say. I have tested many different't configurations and the stacked approach has worked best for spl. I still have a few more to try. I do have one opening in our HT in particular that I would like to close and see what this does.. It is a entrance that is very close to my subs. Wonder what my wife would think of a sheet of T1-11 drifting around the house? "No Way". I will try it and see what it does though. A Pocket door is out of the question. A half pocket door would be doable though. I don't know why it even matters with the bass or output I have now.