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The Dobbs HT: Starting From Scratch (1 Viewer)

Brian Dobbs

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103 wires run so far.

Next step - wire ties.

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Generic 12 Gauge vs. Belden 5T00UP 10 gauge

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Brian Dobbs

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So I put together this short video yesterday. My wife grabbed the video camera and recorded our dogs 'helping' me unbox the speaker wire I ordered from Blue Jeans Cable. We're pro-adoption, so I hope the captioning doesn't detract too much from the enjoyment of watching.

 

ozgecho

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Trying to view the imgrepo directory for the images that have been posted but I am only getting a file directory coming up. Can someone tell a newbie what I am doing wrong.

Wayne
 

Brian Dobbs

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Dave Upton said:
Brian,

Shoot Adam a private message and he'll give you access.
Thanks. Photos restored on pages 1 and 2 now.

105 wires run. Next step is to wire to the projector location.

Here are the wires I have in mind to run. Suggestions welcome.
  • IR Control To Equipment Rack
  • HDMI To Equipment Rack
  • VGA To Equipment Rack
  • 12 Volt Trigger To Screen Location
  • Network From Punch Down
  • 2” PVC Conduit To Equipment Rack
  • Ventilation System
  • Outlet Receptacle (14/2 Electrical Dedicated Circuit Routed Through Equipment Rack For Surge Protection and Power Conditioning)
 

Bobofbone

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I might suggest you consider a couple of items you crossed out. I included cable for IR controls to my equipment area and to my projector.

The receivers:
View attachment 1579


The controler, mounted on the equipment rack:
View attachment 1580

The flasher:
View attachment 1581

It took a little while to connect everything, because I found that I could work everthing from my favorite spot without it. My equipment is behind a smoked glass door, and if I aimed the remote that way, it usually worked. I had to hold it close to the floor for some of the high stuff though. My projector isn't in the same room-I have it on a ceiling mount and project through an optical glass port. I could usually (but not always) aim the projectors remote at the screen, and bounce the signal back through the port to control the projector. Once the theater sort of works, your tendency to do additional work kind of slows down. You get comfortable sitting there and thinking about things, the start turning things on and get kind of distracted.

However, after I got around to hooking things up, everything worked much better. I used a Niles IR repeater system. Once I read the instructions and put the flashers in the right place over the amp, blu ray and projector sensors, it works everytime-as long as there are no feet, dogs or cats in the way between the remote and the sensors.

I know alot of remotes are going to wi fi type remotes, but I think its nice to have the flexibility to be able to use an IR system as well. All it takes is some CAT5 cable, and a junction box and cover for the wall. Mine were also sealed with a putty pad to reduce sound transmission. I wasn't sure I needed it at the time, but I figured it was easier to run the cable before the drywall was up rather than after.

I also thought about a 12 volt line for trigger in case I decided on a power screen. After comparing the price of a power screen with a DIY fixed screen, I never ran the line. If I had something like a flat screen that I was going to drop a sceen in front of, it would have made sense, But, after lookng at what my projector looked like with the lights on projecting onto the concrete, just using a fixed screen made more sense. The full sizes image with the lights on looks good enough. I did put a power outlet close to the ceiling on one side if I wanted a power traverse rod for curtains to use to mask the screen. I haven't done that yet though.
 

Bobofbone

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One more thought. You mentioned a ventillation system. That depends on your set up. If your projector will be enclosed in a small space, it till definitely need a ventilation system. However, I was surprised how quiet my projector (a Panasonic 7000U) and a couple of others (one was a Sony) I have heard are. If it is out in the open, then as long as the vents are clear, it probably won't need additional ventilation.

I avoided noise transmission through the HVAC system into and out of the theater by not having anything from the HVAC run into the area. Since the area outside the theater is heated and cooled, I ran an air intake and air exhaust through dead vents-consisting of inline blowers with a variable speed control, with flexible duct, enclosed in a box packed with insulation, and covered with double dry wall. with the doors closed, 8 people inside and the ceiling fans on low, it keeps the room comfortable. It looked like this during construction:
IMAG0367.JPG


I ran a similar smaller one way system into the equipment area. I found that part, for me, was overkill. The equiment area also has a small storage space off to the side that we haven't used yet, and a space for two sets of shelves holding CD's, DVD's and Blu Rays. The volume of air tends to buffer any heat build up. However, if the equipment space were smaller, I'd include ventillation if the space was enclosed. I had an enclosed equipment space at a house I lived in before, and my amp shut down sometimes, even when I left the door open.
 

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Brian Dobbs

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Bobofbone said:
I might suggest you consider a couple of items you crossed out. I included cable for IR controls to my equipment area and to my projector.
Thanks BoB! Sorry, I should have clarified. The strike-throughs are wires I've already installed. Good to know you put a similar system in and that it works. Thanks for the pictures.

It's also funny that you mention that works stops once the theater is partially running! Guess I'll make sure to finish everything before I purchase any equipment.
 

Brian Dobbs

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Bobofbone said:
One more thought. You mentioned a ventillation system. That depends on your set up. If your projector will be enclosed in a small space, it till definitely need a ventilation system.
The projector will most likely be in a relatively small enclosure. I haven't designed it yet.

Again, thanks for the photos!
 

Bobofbone

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Your are welcome. If your are enclosing the projector for noise reduction, you might want to hear how much noise it will actually make. I was surprised a how quiet the newer projectors I have seen are. However, if your projector is going to be enclosed in small space, you should plan to ventilate it.
 

Brian Dobbs

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131 wires run so far.

Not sure if I mentioned this, but I'm now running wires for an intercom system and video surveillance.

This past weekend I had to run a few from the basement to the attic! Fortunately I had a conduit installed when they built the house. Attic works stinks!

We're also in the middle of a bathroom remodel. And I've also started building a potting bench for my wife. She's been asking for it for the past 2 years now and I told her I would build it once I finished the deck, which I finished a few months ago.

As for the home theater pre-wire, I think I'll be purchasing a 10 meter Audioquest Cinnamon HDMI sometime in the next month or so.
 

Brian Dobbs

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Slightly off topic, but related to the pre-wire in general.

Just bought 125 feet of 6/3 Romex for two future electric charging stations to the garage. This stuff is thick. I'm not sure if my tools will be able to cut it! Haha.
 

Brian Dobbs

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Installed a 12 gauge dedicated ground wire to all circuits as backup. If I encounter ground loop hum, i'll use this to remedy the issue.

136 wires run.
 

Brian Dobbs

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Scheduled an electrician to come out next week and install a subpanel for 20+ new circuits throughout the basement.
 

Brian Dobbs

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Brian Dobbs said:
Slightly off topic, but related to the pre-wire in general.

Just bought 125 feet of 6/3 Romex for two future electric charging stations to the garage. This stuff is thick. I'm not sure if my tools will be able to cut it! Haha.
Wires run. I'm getting pretty good with the fishtape.
 

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