The Dobbs HT: Starting From Scratch (1 Viewer)

[Brian Dobbs]

Photo update! In preparation for the pre-wire, I made a punch list for every location I'm running wire to.

 

[Adam Gregorich]

Originally Posted by Brian Dobbs /t/310191/the-dobbs-ht-starting-from-scratch#post_3934805
Currently considering 10 gauge speaker wire from Blue Jeans Cable as well as a specific coax wire for subwoofer pre-wires.
Speaker Wire - Belden 5T00UP 10/2
Subwoofer Wire - Belden 1694A
Comments welcome.

The 10 gauge seems a bit overkill. You may have a hard time getting connectors for it. I went with 12. I would ask BJC about the difference between the 10 and 12 gauge to see if its worth it.

 

[Robert_J]

I agree with Adam about the 10ga being difficult to work with.
The sub cable is fine. In fact, any coaxial cable will work. I use RG-6 in my walls for sub cable.

 

[Brian Dobbs]

The 10 gauge seems a bit overkill.  You may have a hard time getting connectors for it.  I went with 12.  I would ask BJC about the difference between the 10 and 12 gauge to see if its worth it.

LOL. I should just nickname the theater, "The Overkill."
I think I found some bananas that could accommodate 10 gauge, but you're right, it's definitely not a common gauge to work with in residential systems. Good suggestion about BJC. I'll see what they say when the time comes.

I agree with Adam about the 10ga being difficult to work with.
The sub cable is fine. In fact, any coaxial cable will work. I use RG-6 in my walls for sub cable.

The only thing I'm concerned with when using RG-6 is whether it's pure copper or copper-clad steel. Pretty sure the Belden 1694A is pure copper.

 

[Robert_J]

The only thing I'm concerned with when using RG-6 is whether it's pure copper or copper-clad steel. Pretty sure the Belden 1694A is pure copper.

That has no impact at all in the sub frequencies. It only matters when you are running from a satellite dish and you need a steady 14v or 18v signal for polarization switching. With the higher resistance of copper clad, 100+ foot runs can bring that 18v signal down to 16v which won't let the LNB switch to it's other polarization setting.

 

[Brian Dobbs]

Started pre-wiring the home theater on 07-25-2012.

 

[Brian Dobbs]

30+ wires run so far. Still a long way to go.
I decided to run both 10 gauge (Blue Jeans Cable) and lesser expensive 12 gauge speaker wire. I haven't yet ordered the BJC yet, but I have started on the 12 gauge.
I'm leaving open the possibility of bi-wiring in the far future. GoldenEars, my present speaker of choice, don't yet have that capability.

 

[Brian Dobbs]

Picture Update!

Front of Room

Home Run

Riser

 

[Brian Dobbs]

Ready for more pre-wiring...

The black wire is Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 for my subwoofer lines.

 

[ace peterson]

How did you get the suspended ceiling joists above the HAVC duct in the room? And did you not have anything running perpendicular to your suspended joists that would block their installation? I understand the reasoning for doing it that way, but can't begin to see how someone could do that with everything else going on in the ceiling. Thanks for posting your progress!

 

[Brian Dobbs]

How did you get the suspended ceiling joists above the HAVC duct in the room? And did you not have anything running perpendicular to your suspended joists that would block their installation? I understand the reasoning for doing it that way, but can't begin to see how someone could do that with everything else going on in the ceiling. Thanks for posting your progress!

Good question. There is enough clearance above the HVAC duct to install the new ceiling joists with a few inches to spare. Where I got lucky was the space between the HVAC duct and concrete wall. There was just enough room to construct a framed wall against the concrete wall with less than an inch to spare. The new ceiling joists are resting on these framed walls. Does that make sense?
The idea was to isolate the ceiling from the floor above, as well as the HVAC.

 

[Brian Dobbs]

60 Wires Run

• 12/2 Generic Speaker Wire
• Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 Subwoofer Wire
• 10/2 BJC

 

[ace peterson]

Have you made anymore progress on the theater? Looking forward to seeing more updates! Ace.

 

[Brian Dobbs]

Have you made anymore progress on the theater? Looking forward to seeing more updates! Ace.

Thanks for the inquiry. Nothing too exciting. I've ran 88 cables thus far, including cables for subwoofers in the back riser and buttkickers for the front row. I've also ran cables for a future 'console,' to be located between the two chairs in the front row. Cables include VGA, HDMI, Electrical, CAT5, COAX, USB.


My goal is to be able to communicate with the outside world from the console. Including having a phone jack, doorbell 'repeater', and intercom capabilities. I also want the ability to turn lights off with a hard switch and have inputs for local video game hookups back to the main system located outside of the room. Goal for early 2013 is to buy 10 gauge BJC speaker wire for my "expensive" speaker runs. Need the tax return before I can do that. I'm looking at a grand easy.


Until then, in addition to running all the wires for the home theater, I'm also starting to wire for an intercom system and a video security system throughout portions of the house. I discovered a lot about the world this past weekend, trying to fish cables from the basement to my kitchen. Quite amazed at what I was able to pull off actually. It involved drilling a small hole in one of the lower cabinets.


I've been spending my time also thinking about screen size and placement. Since I have an ugly bulkhead to contend with, I've been going back and forth about how to address this. I'm leaning towards building a matching bulkhead on the right side of the room (the left one houses the HVAC).


Option A: 16x9 screen between bulkheads, utilizing as much vertical space as the room will allow. Great for tall dinosaurs.


Option B: 2.35:1 screen underneath bulkheads, utilizing as much horizontal space as the room will allow. Great for scope.


Option C: Somehow having both. Great for having cake and eating it too. I have to factor in going with a perforated screen and tall floorstanding speakers.

 

[Bobofbone]

Regarding your screen, option C sounds good. If you are building it yourself, the additional expense won't be much more, and you could mask it with a set of narrow curtains along the top during 2.4:1 viewing or full length curtains along the side during 1.78:1. I made a 138" 2.4:1 screen, and the ends aren't that noticble with the shorter aspect image with the lights off. I haven't hung anything to mask the ends, yet. Maybe after watching with the lights on for a Super Bowl party, I'll change my mind. If you do go that route, make it in the room or make sure you can get it in after making it. Mine was a tight fit. The other alternative would be painting the wall, but that wouldn't be something you could put a speaker behind.

 

[Brian Dobbs]

I made some crude visuals to illustrate my thoughts on the matter. I've included three 4' tall floorstanding speakers for reference. The proportions are not precise, but close enough so that you should get the picture. If I build a matching bulkhead on the right side of the theater and hang the screen in between the bulkheads, I could get a 16/9 screen up to about 14.5 feet. Pros with a 16/9 between the bulkheads is obviously a taller screen, by almost a foot when compared to 2.35 screen.


16x9 screen between bulkheads

If I hang the screen underneath the bulkheads, I can get a 2.35 x 1 screen (wider) up to about 16 feet. Pros with a 2.35 screen is obviously a wider screen, practically wall to wall. Con is that it's about a foot shorter in height.


2.35:1 screen underneath bulkheads

The other thing to factor is that I'm taking into consideration that these would have to be fixed screens, with a rigid frame.

 

[Sam Posten]

I'd defer to some of the experts but I'd be wary of light reflections mounting the screen so close to ceiling. I'd think 3-4 inches of space between your screen border and ceiling might be smart.

 

[Brian Dobbs]

I'd defer to some of the experts but I'd be wary of light reflections mounting the screen so close to ceiling. I'd think 3-4 inches of space between your screen border and ceiling might be smart.

Thanks. That's a good suggestion. I think subconsciously I took that into consideration, but I know these illustrations don't reflect that. I think if I had to choose between the two I would go with a 2.35 screen, but I wanted to throw this question to you guys for feedback based on your experiences. My crazy idea involves somehow having two fixed screens, being able to move one out of the way really easily and have the projector compensate for the difference. Wacky. I'm sure there's a simpler way to do this, or maybe I'll just compromise with a masking system.

 

[Brian Dobbs]

Two Small Updates.


1) Tax Return on it's way. Next step is to order 10/2 BJC.


2) Since I'm running most of the electrical myself, I figured it would be a good idea to test the circuits before the drywall goes up. Here's a picture of my wife and baby. It seems as though I wired the sconces correctly.


Right now they're installed with the circular white porcelain rough-ins.

 

[Brian Dobbs]

Got my Belden 5T00UP 10 gauge speaker wire. I've started wiring. Aside from the projector location and ceiling speakers, most of the wire has been run.

99 wires run so far.