Salamader entertainment center-DIY ? (1 Viewer)

[Sanjivnpatel]

Hi:

I am planning on making an entertainment similar to salamander design archetype. Following link has a picture. http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/arc.../gal_audio.jsp

Can anyone suggest what would be the best black color or polish for the wood to get the same look and feel? I would be using this against projector, so I am not looking for very glossy finish for the wood. Also, how can I make a wood real smooth? Are there any products available (putty or color) or just a good old sand paper and keep on rubbing till your hands are tired?

Also, in Home Depot they have threaded rods but these rods are shiny aluminum rod. How can I make it a dull black/rusty looking?

Any help appreciated.

 

[Chris Keen]

Mr. Patel,

You're doing what people here often refer to as Flexy racks or Flexi racks. If you do a search, you'll find lots of good links, pictures, and threads on the subject matter.

Depending on what you can take on with regards to cost, there are many options. First, what substrate will you be using? MDF or Plywood? Next, how professional do you want your results? What type of tools do you have access to? You can paint MDF or Plywood, and get good results. MDF drinks paint pretty good, and requires some good primer coats. It will provide you with a smooth surface. I have to say that in painting, the results will be as good as your painting, prepping, and patience skills might allow.

There's another option, and that's using a laminate to cover the substrate. If you look at the HD section where there are sink and kitchen countertops, there is a section where they have laminates in everything from 2x4 to 4x8 sheet sections that are not bonded to any substrate. You can purchase a flat smooth black counter laminate that is very durable, for I believe around $40 for a 4x8 sheet. All you need to bond this to MDF is contact cement, and a pressure roller. I would highly suggest that you have a good quality (but not necessarily heavy duty) router, and use a laminate trim bit (flush trim bit) with a roller bearing to finish up your edges and seems? What sort of experience do you have in this type of thing, and how handy are you?

If you need more help, lots of folks here can provide suggested links for visuals, etc.

Also, if you like the Synergy design stuff, there are good sources for the extruded aluminum "tubes" like Salamander systems uses. These aren't cheap, but a DIY route is a buttload cheaper than what Salamander charges.

I'm not knocking Salamander. They make a very nice quality product. It's just that if you have DIY skills, you can achieve the same for a lot less.

Chris.

 

[Sanjivnpatel]

Chris;

Thanks for the suggestions. I have taken the painting route. I got the MDF. Surface is really smooth. I have completed the one coat of primer and now sanding it with 220C sand paper. Surface is coming out really smooth. Do you think I need to put a second coat of primer or go ahead with color? I want the final outcome to look VERY good, so what do you recommend? Should I go ahead with second coat of primer and than sand it with sand paper and than go for color or no need for second coat of primer?

Appreciate your help.

Sanjiv

 

[BobMcN]

I've heard of several people using up to 4 layers of primer before painting. Then using an automotive paint in several layers with sanding/steel wool inbetween, then a lacquor type of finish for the glossy effect.

It's all just a matter of how far you want to go.

Enjoy,
Bob

 

[Wayne Ernst]

I've had good results with 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint on MDF. For even better results, have the paint store tint your primer so it's nearly the same color as the paint you are going to apply.

 

[Sanjivnpatel]

Thanks for the suggestions. One coat of Primer and 330C sand paper is working out great. Resultant surface is pretty good. Its a satin finish coat so not very dull and not very shiny either. I might be able to post pictures soon.

Sanjiv