Replacement for Paradigm PDR10 sub. (1 Viewer)

[flycaster]

My system is about 12 years old, comprising of : Yamaha RXV800, Paradigm bookshelf speakers (Mini Monitor series for mains, Cinema v.1 for rears, PDR-10 subwoofer, and a Paradigm center channel - don't recall the model number but it goes with the system).
It appears that the sub has seen better days. I get a "crackling" type sound coming from the front of the sub. I'd take the cover off, but I understand that it isn't meant to come off. Anyway, assuming that the sub is shot and not worth repairing (or can't be repaired), I'm looking for a replacement sub that will fit into the existing system and one that won't cost too much. And to be thoroughly honest, although I know the importance of the sub, I'm willing to get a lesser quality one as the system is used primarily for TV, DVDs, CDs. I like to listen to music, but really can't tell one note from another (i.e., don't need to go big on the sub.) Actually, I've been reading some reviews on the Polk PSW10 and think that it would make a nice replacement.
Certainly would like to hear some comments. Thanks.

 

[Dave Upton]

I recommend this guy:http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=303-436

Great value for your $$

 

[flycaster]

That sub does look like a good buy, but I don't want to spend that much. Thanks.

 

[schan1269]

If $200 is too much, there isn't much left. But in descending order...
BIC V1220
BIV V1020
Dayton Sub1200
Dayton sub1000
After those 4...there is basically nothing to consider.

 

[flycaster]

If $200 is too much, there isn't much left. But in descending order...
BIC V1220
BIV V1020
Dayton Sub1200
Dayton sub1000
After those 4...there is basically nothing to consider.

My bad, $200 is fine. I have also been looking at the BICs.

 

[Dave Upton]

If 200 is okay, the first one I recommended is the best choice. After that, Sam has summarized your options pretty thoroughly.

 

[flycaster]

Don't really know if I need 400+watts from the BIC12, the BIC might be good in my situation???
Also, would really appreciate comments on opening the cabinet door vs taking the sub out and placing it on the floor? I do know that taking it out would be ideal; however, I'd settle for less than ideal as long as I got some kind of bass effects.

 

[Robert_J]

Don't really know if I need 400+watts from the BIC12, the BIC might be good in my situation???

Wattage ratings by themselves mean nothing. Also, subs can be turned down when they drown out the main speakers. If they can't keep up with the main speakers, you can only turn them up so high until there is distortion. I always recommend more sub than you think you need.

Also, would really appreciate comments on opening the cabinet door vs taking the sub out and placing it on the floor? I do know that taking it out would be ideal; however, I'd settle for less than ideal as long as I got some kind of bass effects.

It all depends on if the sub is rear ported. You need to give the port room to breathe. Also, have you tested to see if that location is optimal for a smooth response?

 

[flycaster]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions, RJ. I doubt that I can tell if the response is smooth. I do like the F-12, but there are fitting into cabinet size problems that will probably hinder its placement. Cabinet height isn't a problem, but the cabinet only goes 18" deep, and either 14" or 17" wide. The F-12 is 17.25" deep and thus no room for the wires or "breathing" room for the rear port. The V-12 is too wide at 17". The downfiring Bic 10 would fit, but its side port would not have much room as it is 15" wide; and furthermore, as it's port is on its side, placing the port in the front or in the back seems OK except that the wiring would be on the side and I don't think 2" would be enough clearance. Of course, I can try to run a cable from the entertainment center to the sub (would have to place the sub across the room, opposite the center???

 

[schan1269]

2" clearance is fine, because of these...
http://www.amazon.com/Steren-251-111-Right-Angle-Adapter-Female/dp/B0018MA8LA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1356560593&sr=1-2&keywords=rca+90
The main issue putting your sub in the cabinet is...what else is in the cabinet?
You do realize that the subwoofers objective is to vibrate stuff...???

 

[flycaster]

You do realize that the subwoofers objective is to vibrate stuff...???

Sure I do, but was hoping against all odds that I could get away with it. So now I have to figure out how to run cable across a tile floored room without the cable making the room look like sh*t.

 

[schan1269]

http://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-CMK50-CordMate-Computer-Entertainment/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1356571695&sr=1-2&keywords=wiremold

 

[flycaster]

http://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-CMK50-CordMate-Computer-Entertainment/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1356571695&sr=1-2&keywords=wiremold

Hey, thanks Sam. I'll give it a try once I make up my mind on which speaker to get.

 

[flycaster]

One of the problems I'm having with using the cable covers is that the cable will have to run in front of my sliding glass doors. This may be too bulky looking and go over the door's track, or it just may look ugly. So now I'm thinking of a wireless sub. As I'm not an audiophile and will not be blasting anything, but do want reasonable sounding bass, I think that a 10" wireless sub would do me fine (with a $300 budget). Any suggestions?

 

[schan1269]

"10" wireless sub would do me fine (with a $300 budget). Any suggestions?"
Not at $300.

 

[schan1269]

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-DSW-PRO-440-WI/dp/B004FY8NIS/ref=sr_1_36?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1356806551&sr=1-36&keywords=wireless+subwoofer
And it isn't even "wireless" yet...you have to buy the wireless as an add on.
And the cordmate is...
1. Paintable
2. Run it over the door
3. No worse than the lamp wires you have running across the floor now. (assuming of course you have more light in the room than what is just pre-installed in the ceiling)

 

[flycaster]

I think that I am leaning towards a wireless sub. I can easily run cable up and over the sliding glass doors using about 40' or cable covering, bu it would look a little out of place in my living room. The Pro 440 looks good except I would have to buy the wireless adapter. Don't know how much it is? Another wireless sub that I've been looking at is the JBL 150pwb 10" (http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PWBK-Wireless-300-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B001DXONOW) as it already comes with a wireless adapter for the same price as the Polk sub (without adapter). However, I don't know anything about these to subs as I can't find reasonable reviews (other than customer reviews)???