Official announcement for starting construction for my HT room!

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by JJMJ71, Jun 7, 2007.

  1. JJMJ71

    JJMJ71 Stunt Coordinator

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    Updated 1/8/08 Reply #91 with Pictures

    Hello all,
    I would like to introduce myself, my name is James, but I go by JJ. As you can see I am located about 30 miles east of St. Louis on the Illinois side. We just purchased this house last year and finally have the room to build the home theater. I am very excited [​IMG] to build this room and will be a dream come true for me when it is done. This is a room that I have been wanting to build for about 15 years now. I am planning on doing all the work (no use of contractors) with some help from family and a few friends and of course the knowledge base here on the forum.

    I have been checking out the forums here and seeing everyones progress and admiring there work and wanted to officially start my thread for my HT build. Looking through the gallery of the HT's, I am really impressed with the workmanship of a lot of these rooms. I am hoping that my room will turn out half as good as theirs. I hope to gain a lot of knowledge from forum members here while building the room. I would like to thank everyone who has posted there experiences on the other thread titled "Things I wished I would have done differently on my project". I would like to especially thank Parker Clack for starting that thread. There is a lot of good information and insight in there that I plan on implementing.

    Now that my wife is happy with the scrapbooking room I built for her in the basement I can now turn my full attention over to the HT room. [​IMG]

    I am on a limited budget (trying to stay around $5K to $6K) and will try and get the most bang for the buck setup. I welcome any suggestions that people may have for me while I am building this room. I have a lot of ideas for the room and I am making many of the pieces of the room myself. Please let me know if I am planning something that may not be a good idea.

    First, I will start off with my diagram that is not totally to scale of what I have in mind for my theater room. If you see any flaws in my design or misplacement of something or something I should add, please feel free to comment on it.

    Click on picture for larger image
    [​IMG]

    Here is the list of equipment that I have purchased so far:
    Panasonic PT-AX100U
    Elite ezScreen 120" High Contrast Grey
    Toshiba HD-A2 HD DVD player
    Onkyo TX-SR805
    Klipsch RC-62 Center Channel
    Klipsch RF-82 Fronts
    Klipsch RS-52 Surrounds
    2 - 15" Exodus Audio Tempest Subs (Infinite Baffle Setup)
    Behringer Amp EP-2500
    Behringer Parametric EQ
    Monster Power conditioner and surge protector HTS-3600
    Buttkicker Amp and 4 Transducers
    Insteon Lighting system and software
    Harmony 1000 w/ RF extender

    I am planning on purchasing an Oppo DVD player and maybe an HD player at some point. I will also be looking into getting a new satellite reciever for HD content. I am also working on building an HTPC to play movies, music, and pictures.


    Here are a few additional pictures of the current state of the room.

    Click on picture for larger image
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I just received my speaker wire from Bluejeanscable and hope to start running speaker wire this weekend. I also plan to get started on the platform for the second row seating.

    Here are some photo's of my A/V rack that I am currently working on. I planned on painting the interior of the rack flat or satin black. The arrows are pointing to a slider that I made for a glass door. This will allow me to keep the tinted window closed or I can swing it open and slide it along the outside of the cabinet for storage to keep the rack open or to keep the kids from accidentally breaking it.

    Click on picture for larger image
    [​IMG]

    I will post some current pictures of the A/V rack along with the DVD storage pull out that I have also made. The DVD rack will hold approximately 300 movies or so. The slideout will have a handle located in the middle of the door and will pull out of the wall and has storage on both sides of the rack.

    I am looking forward to get to know everyone here and getting some advice and answers to questions that will arise during the build. I welcome any thoughts on my whole project, especially if you see me heading for a pitfall. I would like to Thank everyone in advance for any future feedback to any of my questions and or responses. I will try and keep my build updated on a regular basis to let you how I am progressing. [​IMG]

    Thanks,
    JJ
     
  2. Cees Alons

    Cees Alons Moderator
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    Hello Jim (JJ),

    Welcome to the forum!

    Hope your HT construction works great. There's one thing I immediately noticed, because I'm having a giant ([​IMG] ) reconstruction going on myself: the chairs are in the room where you're still working (drywall and all). Isn't that extremely dirty? Or did you just put them there for the photos?


    Cees
     
  3. JJMJ71

    JJMJ71 Stunt Coordinator

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    Thanks Cees, I hope your build is going well also.

    I received my projector and screen and wanted to see how everything is going to work together. Basically wanted to do a mock up of the room make sure there was enough space between couches and stuff like that. Now that I have that done I will recover the furniture up with plastic drop cloths.

    Did you have pictures up of your room up on the forum yet?

    Thanks,
    JJ
     
  4. Cees Alons

    Cees Alons Moderator
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    Yes, I figured it must have been something like that.

    No, I don't have any pictures up yet. I'll need some time to sit down and prepare it. (Also, reconstruction-English (-jargon) [​IMG] is more difficult for me to produce and it takes even more time.)


    Cees
     
  5. JJMJ71

    JJMJ71 Stunt Coordinator

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    Time for an update...

    Well I made some good progress on my platform for the second row of the HT room. I still have to finish the steps and the wall enclosures around the back couches and the wall along the back of the front couch. I am also in the process of running wiring for buttkickers and electrical wiring for lights around the steps. I also have insulation that I will be putting inside of the platform as soon as all the wiring is complete.

    I also have an update on my speaker delema...
    I had a business trip to Washington DC and while I was up there I thought I would go around and check out some of the Home Theater stores in the area. I have been looking at getting the Klipsch RF-82's (fronts) and the RS-52's (Surrounds) and at the moment I am planning to run 5.1 surround, but will pre-wire the room for 7.1 for future use. The cheapest I have found these four speakers for is around $1200 - $1300. I went into a place and they just happen to be having a sale on Klipsch speakers. I was able to purchase all four speakers for $1000 and a $100 for shipping. Needless to say, I was pretty happy with deal. The speakers should be arriving sometime this week from the store.

    For my AVR, I will be purchasing the Onkyo TX-SR805. I have been reading many good reviews about the receiver and I am looking forward to purchasing it and hooking it up to the Klipsch speakers. [​IMG]

    Here a are a few pictures of my platform in progress.

    Looking at the platform from the back of the room.
    [​IMG]

    Checking fit of couches on the platform.
    [​IMG]

    Another angle...
    [​IMG]

    I will post some pictures of the platform when I get some more done.
    Any questions or comments are welcomed!

    Regards,
    JJ
     
  6. JJMJ71

    JJMJ71 Stunt Coordinator

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    Finally another update of progress. [​IMG]

    I have the platform constructed and is awaiting wiring for electrical and speaker wire for the Buttkickers. I will then have the construction of the platform complete. Here are a few pics of the platform with the walls and steps all in place.

    Almost done with platform
    [​IMG]

    The constructed platform
    [​IMG]

    I also have been busy constructing the stage and have completed it, minus the walls that need to surround the screen and the side walls that butt up to the stage. Here are some pics of the stage.

    Stage in construction
    [​IMG]

    Stage in its completed form awaiting carpeting at a later date
    [​IMG]

    Another pic of the stage and screen (I took the screen out of the frame so it would not get damaged, and wrap in plastic to keep from getting dirty)
    [​IMG]

    A fun fact for the stage: The stage took a little over 900 pounds of sand to fill the stage. This should take care of any vibrations that would have come from the stage.
    The plan is to have the speakers standing on the stage but hidden behind a wall with black speaker fabric over it.

    I have a question about speaker placement for my surrounds before I run the speaker wire. I have the Klipsch RS-52's, which is a Wide Dispersion Surround Technology speaker.

    Klipsch RS-52
    [​IMG]

    Surround speaker locations are in yellow. Here is the first step using 5.1 surround with all Klipsch speakers.
    [​IMG]

    Here is the surrounds with added Infinity bookshelves to complete the 7.1 surround.
    [​IMG]

    Let me know which I should do. I could always wire for 7.1 and when the money becomes available I can then put in the last pair of Klipsch speakers for full 7.1?

    Any thoughts or suggestions on this would be great!

    Thanks,
    JJ
     
  7. Robert_J

    Robert_J Lead Actor

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    Congratulations on the project. It's progressing nicely.

    I see you have put a lot of money into a great set of speakers but have you thought about a sub upgrade? That little 12" RCA won't keep up with those Klipsh speakers. It sure won't pressurize a room of that size. My theater room is 16x25 and I use a pair of DIY 15" subs with a pro amp. It isn't enough for action movies. I've got four custom built 18's on order as an upgrade.

    -Robert
     
  8. JJMJ71

    JJMJ71 Stunt Coordinator

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    Thanks for the compliment Robert! [​IMG]

    Yes, I plan on doing something with new subs not 100% sure yet. I will see what is left in the budget as I get closer to finishing the project and see if I could buy or build something a little better than what I have now. If nothing else at least get another one to help out the RCA!

    Another question, if I split the low level line to many times would I start running into problems? An example would be: splitting out three ways to go to two powered subs and a buttkicker amp.

    Also, what kind of cost are you looking at for 15" or 18" subs and either a power plate or an amp?

    Thanks,
    JJ
     
  9. Robert_J

    Robert_J Lead Actor

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    My 15's look EXACTLY like a TC 3000 and cost me a total of $250 each for the drivers. I got lucky and found some surplus motors (the magnet structure) made by TC Sounds for another company. They are close enough that it doesn't matter to me. If you want to get an awsome sub, jump on the deal in the link. It will disappear in a day or two since TC Sounds is raising prices by 30% to 50%.

    My four 18's on order are another deal. Again, I got surplus TC Sounds neodymium motors (scrool down here to see both of the motors types I have - link). I've contacted another company that is selling me 18" baskets and their 18" recone kit modified to work in an infinite baffle alignment. They will cost me a total of $200 each. If you can't find a deal like this, great drivers are available starting around $100 and going up to $1,000. Find a budget and how much space you are willing to give up and anyone in the DIY section can help you design a great sub.

    Plate amps are nice but a pro amp from Behringer, QSC or Crown has a great watts to dollars ratio. An EP-2500 (about 1,000w x 2 or 2,000w x 1) costs about $320. Crown amps will cost up to $1,000 but they will deliver up to 4,000w x 1. Additional circuits to your room are required to handle an amp like that. I even run my EP-2500 on a dedicated 20amp circuit.
    The BK amp that you have is has been used to power some of these monster subs. But recent testing has shown higher than acceptable (to certain crowds) distortion.

    Splitting the LFE signal is not a big deal as long as you use quality cables and splitters and have enough voltage on your LFE output. I split mine 2 ways now and I have it set at -2. I'm also running it through a Behringer Feedback Destroyer (I use the parametric EQ function to smooth the sub's response) and it can boost the signal some.

    -Robert
     
  10. JJMJ71

    JJMJ71 Stunt Coordinator

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    Robert,

    I have been thinking about what you have said and I might have to see about adding a bigger sub.

    How big of a box would you approximately need for the 15"s that you are talking about?

    Right at the moment I was planning on running a 30 amp breaker over to my AV rack to handle the equipment. It sounds like if I do this I would maybe need to go ahead and plan on running another circuit over there?

    JJ
     
  11. Kevin Stewart

    Kevin Stewart Second Unit

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    I think your current speaker locations will work great (sides, rears).

    Questions though: You mention placing your fronts on the stage, but the stage looks only slightly wider than the screen. Won't they block part of the screen? Where are you placing your center? Is that a transparent screen?
     
  12. predgw

    predgw Agent

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    Great looking setup. I have empty 25'x14.5' room that I will be starting soon. Couple questions.
    Is that bare concrete in the picture? If so did you seal it.
    If it is concrete, are you using pressure treated wood on the floor?
    What is involved with wiring for the butt kickers? Do you need a junction box in the platform area or is it hard wired?

    thanks
     
  13. JJMJ71

    JJMJ71 Stunt Coordinator

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    Here is a link for buttkicker wiring diagram: http://www.thebuttkicker.com/support_userguide.html

    I also found another wiring guide that showed 1, 2, 3, and 4 transducers hooked up and the total ohms that it would produce. As far as wiring is concerned, I will be using 12 gauge speaker wire that is certified for running through walls without having to be in a conduit. I think that it is also shielded to keep from picking up any interference. So to answer you question, No I will not be using a junction box, I plan on terminating it to a speaker post plate.


    I will be more than happy to answer any other questions anyone has!

    Thanks,
    JJ
     
  14. Robert_J

    Robert_J Lead Actor

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    For the 15's I linked to, I'd go with 4 cubic feet and heavily braced. These are extremely powerful subs and will destroy a poorly built box. In this thread, the guy puts one in a 3.6cf box and powers it with a Behringer EP-2500. I recommend the same with a box .4cf larger.

    I would put a 2nd circuit for the sub amp and the BK amp.

    If you are going to do this, you have to act fast. Prices at TC Sounds are going up 50% to 100% on Monday.

    -Robert
     
  15. JJMJ71

    JJMJ71 Stunt Coordinator

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    Robert,
    Is the Tc-3000 sub a complete sub? i.e. the motor comes with it, or do you have to buy that separately?

    Which sub would you recommend, the dual 2ohm voice coil or the quad 2ohm voice coil?
    Thanks,
    JJ
     
  16. Robert_J

    Robert_J Lead Actor

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    The link I gave you is the complete driver with motor and top assembly. Drop it in a box and add an amp.

    Get the dual voice coil version since it is the only one available right now. The Theile/Small parameters are a bit different than what is posted but not enough to matter. Also the BL (strength measured in Newton meters) of the motor is 14% less than the quad voice coil. It was an experiment that didn't quite turn out like TC Sounds wanted. That's why they are selling them at a substantial discount. And don't think this is a "reject". Their mistakes are better than most companies retail subs.

    Finally, the DVC will allow you to run a pro amp into a bridged 4 ohm load. My EP-2500 delivers 1,000w per channel to my quad voice coil subs and that is not enough. I can push my amp into clipping and the subs are still not being stressed. An EP-2500 on a DVC model will deliver 2,000w. Based on my simulations using Unibox that provide great output while still not pushing the sub past its mechanical limits.

    -Robert
     
  17. Robert_J

    Robert_J Lead Actor

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    The door beside your A/V rack. What is that room? If it is storage, then you could use it for an IB subwoofer. Even better since you don't have to have an enclosure.

    -Robert
     
  18. Shannon W

    Shannon W Stunt Coordinator

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    JJ.

    Man I envy your room! but let me tell you this one little thing "ROB is giving you the best info for a DIY sub by using TC Sound drivers." I wanted to do a DIY with TC drivers but I didn't have the tools or the means to do it.

    But there is one more thing you need to know before you venture down this path. With a Sub as large as your looking to build I would highly recommend to not try and put it as close to you AV rack as you have stated in your pictures that where your sub will be placed.

    I have my SVS on the other side of the room as my av rack and I'm still thinking about putting all of my av equipment in the closet where all my DVD's are to get it even further away to help try and keep the vibrations on the equipment to a minimum.

    Also if your needing any help let me know since we live as close as we do I would be more then happy to help a guy out in y spare time, Plus on the 13 of august I'll be off work for 7 weeks.. Let me know!

    Shannon
     
  19. JJMJ71

    JJMJ71 Stunt Coordinator

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    Shannon, I might have to take you up on that. I am hoping by that time I will be doing finish work in the room. Like getting equipment hooked up and everything situated. You will definitely have to stop by if nothing else to check the room out.

    -JJ
     
  20. Shannon W

    Shannon W Stunt Coordinator

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    If you don't have a spl meter I would be more then happy to bring mine and help you set up your speaker levels or what ever else you need help with.

    Shannon
     

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