I have a few questions before I start on my DIY sub. (1 Viewer)

[Ryan T]

Hi,

I'm finally going to build my DIY subwoofer! I just have a few more questions before I start. First I'm going with the 230L sealed tempest design on Adire's webpage. I noticed that the they have 18 4" holes in the braces for airflow. I'm wondering if I can just make eight 8" holes to save time. Another thing I noticed is the sub-s kit that adire sells only gives you 4 t-nuts for driver mounting. Is it better to use 8 screws or is 4 enough. Also I would like to mount the driver on the front of the enclosure. I'm wondering if it matters where on the front I mount it? Thanks.

Ryan

 

[Kerry Hackney]

Ryan,

Another thing I noticed is the sub-s kit that adire sells only gives you 4 t-nuts for driver mounting. Is it better to use 8 screws or is 4 enough. Also I would like to mount the driver on the front of the enclosure. I'm wondering if it matters where on the front I mount it

I would use all 8 holes. I am not committed to 'T' nuts however. If you don't plan on taking the driver in and out it works just fine to screw it to the MDF as long as you predrill the holes. I haven't lost a driver yet using this method. Stripped 'T' nuts on the other hand can be a major PITA. As for mounting the driver on the front.. again you will have to alter the inner braces for clearance. For max spl potential you may want to mount it as far down as you can so that it will couple with the floor boundry better. If volume isn't your main consideration, I would place it where it looks the best to you. It isn't going to make a major difference no matter where it is.

 

[James Slade]

Ryan,

Kerry's advice is pretty much dead on. Use all of the mounting holes. I personally would leave the box exactly is it is on the website. If you really want the look of a front firing sub, then just put a faux grill on the front. No one will ever be able to tell the difference.

Good luck

 

[Rob Lloyd]

The faux grill is a good idea if you just want the look. If you have kids or animals it would be better protection for the driver on the bottom.

But if you want to limit the height of the sub then front firing would be best with just some small spikes on the bottom. The bracing would need to be modified but that's not that tough to do.

The 4" holes would be best for strength over the 8" holes. Yes it a lot but it doesn't take that long for what you get.

 

[Ryan T]

Thanks for the replys. I'm wanting to put a base plate on the subwofer. It would be the same size as the top plate. I would just screw it into the 4" legs. My question is if I do make the sub downfiring will the base mess up the sound? Also if I do the downfiring how the heck do I stuff the box with poly fill?? thanks.

Ryan

 

[Kerry Hackney]

As long as you leave the 4" from the base to the floor you should have no trouble with down firing. A base won't affect the sound. As for stuffing, I would use the regular polyfill up in the cabinet and then drape a piece of poly batting over the driver. The batting is kind of woven together in a sheet. It will make a "screen" so the loose polyfill doesn't fall down on the driver. You can also weave the loose stuff through the holes in the braces and it will stay in place pretty well.

 

[Ryan T]

Ok I think I'm going with the original design for the sake of simplicity. I was thinking about the polyfil problem and I think it might be easiest if I just use the poly batting at walmart. It comes in a roll I think it is used for making blankets or something. Anyway I could just staple it onto the sides then it would not fall onto the woofer. I want to know if there is any difference accousticly between the stuff that is in a big roll or the stuff that is just loose in the bag. I was just reading in a speaker book and it said to put screws in ever 4 inches on all the joints. I was planning on using a ton of that yellow wood glue and screws every 8 inches or so, do you think this will be strong enough? I'm still not sure about using T-nuts or screws. From what I've read here it seems that if I want to use T-nuts I'm going to need something for them to bite into instead of the MDF. I would like to use screws since I won't be taking the driver out after I install it. But I want to do it right the first time. I can't think of anything more I need to ask. I'm leavin Thursday to build my sub waa-hoo! I just hope I don't make any stupid mistakes cutting the wood.

Ryan