I Hate T-Nuts. Alternatives? (1 Viewer)

[Rory Buszka]

Setback: I ordered the 10-32 Hurricane nuts because that is the same type of T-nuts I had in the kits I originally ordered from PE but I checked the nearby Lowe's and Menards (local chain) stores but they only had 10-24 machine screws, not 10-32 like I need. Looks like I'm driving all over town tomorrow...

 

[RodN]

Yes, they have an internal hex cutout that allows you to screw them in with an allen key (wrench).

 

[Chris Bates]

T-Nuts are the way to go for driver mounting, but they stink on MDF.....Try using plywood backers for the t-nuts. It will give the t-nuts something to bite into, without having to worry about tear-out.

 

[Rory Buszka]

I think the hurricane nuts are supposed to work themselves in as you tighten down on the screw. They have a core like a threaded insert and a flat top like a T-nut so that they spread their holding power over a greater surface. The wood should give out before these things let go. The only concern is how you remove these if you screw up, without hosing your board.

 

[Ronnie Ferrell]

:bThanks for the compliment!:b All the "finesse" work I did on the inside does not make it sound any better, but I'm kind of a perfectionist when it comes to building stuff...


Ronnie

 

[Cam McFarland]

RORY........


Do you have a Home Depot anywhere near you?

I just recently bought 10-32 bolts from my local one.

 

[Bob K]

Another vote here for threaded inserts, which I typically get from McFeelys or McMaster. I've never had a problem.

Tempest Construction Pix: http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/m...view_album.php

 

[Rory Buszka]

I also strive really hard for perfection when I build something, but at the end of the day the sad fact is that I'm just an idiot, and none of my speakers or subwoofers have very awesome fit or finish. Probably the best yet is my MTM mains.

BTW, the Hurricane nuts worked well. Thet went in and then didn't back out when I screwed in the drivers. I found the 10-32 x 2" screws at Ace Hardware in the city south of me, called Carmel. There is a Lowe's in nearby Noblesville, IN but that is sort of a drive. I haven't had a chance to really hear how it sounds yet (on account of the fact that it has to be moved upstairs and weighs 70-80 lbs. For its size, that is a lot of weight.

 

[Dennis XYZ]

Drywall screws and glue....

Drill a (small) pilot hole, drive in a screw to tap the hole, back the screw out, and squirt some yellow glue into the hole. The MDF will suck up the glue and it will dry to a hard tapped hole. After the glue is dry, mount the driver. If you mess up and strip a hole, coat a wooden match stick with glue and drive it into the hole. After the glue dries, trim the stick flush with a sharp knife and start over with the screw/glue bit.

 

[Allen Ross]

i recently tried to remove my tempest from its enclosure, but sadly one t nut and machine screw got completely stripped. I sunk the tnuts into baltic birch ply wood then glued to the MDF. I tried drilling out the machine screw from the front no luck, took the plate amp off the back got some vice grips on the tnut but stripped the machine screw. so not i am thinking of breaking out the pneumatic cutting tool and taking off the back of the tnut and tapping out the machine screw.



Oh, i also picked up a box of 100 hurricane nuts and stainless machine screws from my local industrial hardware supply shop. not bad for 25 bucks IMO.

 

[Rory Buszka]

What store did you find Hurricane nuts at? I used up nearly half my hurricane nuts on three drivers.

 

[Allen Ross]

KL Jack they are based out of portland and bangor maine.

kljack.com