Hitachi 57swx20b first impressions and service menu faq

Discussion in 'Displays' started by Gregory Scott Bass, Feb 11, 2003.

  1. Gregory Scott Bass

    Gregory Scott Bass Stunt Coordinator

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    I posted this over at avs and thought I would archive it here in case any of you buy this set. Scott


    Hi, first I want to say thankyou to all the people who have posted here...this has been an awesome source of information and helped me make what appears to be the best tv purchase I have ever made. I spent 10 hrs or more reading your post and I am including instructions for red push and service menu convergence from people here at the end of this post just so it is all in one place for anyone else that wants to buy this set.

    I did the red push adjustment immediately and magic focus....I was surprised that geometry looks almost perfect right out of the box and video essentials shows overscan at about 5% ....acceptable to me. I have not done manual convergence yet but after running magic focus there were only a few spots that I could distinguish any color other than white.

    I am using dishnetworks 6000 hdtv reciever and I hooked up both component and s-video. during my red push adjustment I used the same values used for "f" for all inputs "4" etc... my settings after this fix and video essential adjustment are
    contrast-26
    brightness 50
    color-50
    sharpness-1
    tint -default

    through component on dish red is still very pronounced but does not bleed at all so I am happy with my settings. I have seen the post about green being lime green and I did notice this tendency and so I went and turned on my old rca cinemascreen and did a direct comparison of colors with the hitachi. the verdict is green is the same color as the rca(westminister dog show on usa network) but it is much more saturated....it looked washed out on the rca in comparison but it was the same color. I feel sure that this is the effect people are talking about.....perhaps if you could adjust only the saturation control on the hitachi it would look a touch more natural on sd channels...but maybe at the expense of hd...something to look in to. having said that its not really objectionable but I would probably tone it down a touch if I could.

    I made a pretty significant discovery last night....in my opinion component sd did'nt look as good as s-video sd....more artifacts in the upconversion process....so I had resolved myself that I would have to switch inputs when watching hd vs sd.....which disapointed me because I really wanted to have all tv on one input, so just out of curiousity I changed the dish 6000 to out put 720p......it was amazing....when you do this the tv lets you choose 540p or 1080i conversion....now my sd channels look better through component than s-video. and the line doubler in the set is so good I could not see a difference between my hd channels being upconverted to 1080i or being sent to it in 1080i natively. hd really rocks of course...it is amazing a picture can be so good on a tv so large....truly awe inspiring. I do not know technically why 720p in combination with the hitachi's line doubler would make such a difference but trust me ..its not subtle

    on to dvd's I think this blew me away even more than hdtv....I put in starwars attack of the clones and went to the clone factory and the scene where old darth vader is romping in the meadow with the princess and it looked just like hdtv....probably the cleanest most beautiful display I have ever seen on any tv....and this is before I have even done manul efocus or manual convergence.....either I got lucky or the guys at hitachi really have there act together.....I still can't get over this and I have owned the sony xbr800, the rca 38310 and my old reliable rca cinemascreen(analog sorta) plus I visit hi end av stores all the time to see whats new and I have never been so awestruck before...its that good......well thats it....now I am just going to repost the instuctions I stole from here. Scott
    .................
    red push instructions
    Since there seem to be a few folks new to the red push tweak for the SWX/TWX/XWX, (and those
    asking me about my settings again in pm), I thought I'd make a quick repost of the ISF
    settings I used to eliminate red push on my set.

    Anyone can do this, and as long as you write down your original settings, there's really no
    risk of messing things up. This also assumes that you have a disc like AVIA, (however even if
    you don't have AVIA, you can use this tweak, see below.)

    1. Enter the Service Menu
    You do this by pressing "Input/Exit" and the "Power Button" at the same time on the front of
    the TV. (Not the remote.)

    Hint: Hold down the "Input" button, and then press the Power button. When you do, immediately,
    let go of both buttons, and the Service Menu will appear.

    2. Enter the ISF Menu
    Use the joystick on the remote to scroll down until the very last menu selection (on page 3)
    which says "ISF Mode". Once selected, hit a 'right' on the remote joystick to enter the ISF
    Mode.

    3. Write down your original default settings
    Write down your numbers for the following settings:
    (Red Hue Settings Below)
    RY-PH-4
    RY-PH-F
    RY-PH-G
    (Red Saturation Settings Below)
    R/B-GA4
    R/B-GAF
    R/B-GAG
    (Green Hue Settings Below)
    GY-PH-4
    GY-PH-F
    GY-PH-G
    (Green Saturation Settings Below)
    G/B-GA4
    G/B-GAF
    G/B-GAG

    4a. Make Color Adjustments
    NOTE: If you don't have AVIA, skip to 4b.

    As Mfusick did a great job in explaining, do the following:

    Use the AVIA flashing color bars and with the appropriate filter. First select the blue bars
    and adjust the color and tint. Then select the red bars and adjust the R/Y and R/B controls.
    Then select the green bars and adjust the G/Y and G/B controls. Then start at the top again.
    After you complete the above process about 3 times you should have the chroma portion of your
    set nailed.

    4b. Steal My Settings
    "Good artists create. Great artists steal." - Pablo Picasso

    I was using the AVIA disc with the Panasonic RP82 in 480p, Progressive on. Here's the
    before/after I got, and just for reference, I have the TWX20B, and these are just the settings
    on my set, your mileage may vary:

    Original ISF Settings (red push way off)
    RY-PH-4 00
    RY-PH-F 00
    RY-PH-G 00

    R/B-GA4 0C
    R/B-GAF 0C
    R/B-GAG 08

    GY-PH-4 02
    GY-PH-F 02
    GY-PH-G 03

    G/B-GA4 00
    G/B-GAF 00
    G/B-GAG 00

    New Settings ISF (after adjusting with AVIA; Color is great!)
    RY-PH-4 00
    RY-PH-F 02
    RY-PH-G 00

    R/B-GA4 0C
    R/B-GAF 03
    R/B-GAG 08

    GY-PH-4 02
    GY-PH-F 01
    GY-PH-G 03

    G/B-GA4 00
    G/B-GAF 04
    G/B-GAG 00

    I then took the progressive mode OFF on the Panny RP82, and re-checked the AVIA color patterns
    in interlaced mode (480i), and the color seemed dead on.

    5. Write down your new color settings
    Just for the ISF color values listed above.

    6. Optional: Repeat the values from (F) to (4) and (G)
    If you have HDTV, you can make these adjustments 'across the board' by entering the same
    values for (4) and (G), for the values you obtained for (F). I don't think you will have any
    issues. I don't.

    6. Ensure settings are "locked"
    You make adjustments to the numbers by moving the joystick to the left/right. When you have
    the numbers you want for each setting, hit "enter" on the joystick, (by pushing it in), and
    that will lock in the new setting. Make sure all settings have been "entered" in, and then
    turn off the TV.

    7. Confirm ISF Settings
    Go back into the ISF Mode, and confirm that the new values are displayed for the color
    settings above.

    8. Re-adjust user control settings for COLOR, etc. With AVIA.
    Now that you've corrected your color, you may find that you can bump the COLOR setting way up,
    and you wont see red/orange over saturated flesh tones. (Example, my "COLOR" setting in the
    user control is set to 46% after the red push tweak.) As always, individual results may vary.

    9. Enjoy Reds, Without Red Push
    I love this set.


    __________________
    Mike McGee
    Oakland, CA

    Regarding the F, 4 and G settings in the ISF menu. I had my set ISF'd last week by Robert
    Busch in Northern CA (one of the original ISF Techs who has done work for Lucas at Skywalker
    Ranch). Anyway, he did put at 1080i signal generator up on my 57SWX20B and when we did the
    color decoder for the 1080i settings, we came up with the exact same settings for 4, F and G.
    In hindside, this makes sense to me. The settings are different than what is posted here
    because once grayscale was redone, it shifted the colors a bit (not much though). My settings
    are as follows:

    RY-PH- 02 (4, F, G)
    R/B-GA 02 (4, F, G)
    GY-PH 01 (4, F, G)
    G/B -GA 05 (4, F, G)

    Color 5A (4, F, G) - He changed G to match 4 & F
    Tint 42 (4, F G) -He changed 4 and G to match F (default value on my set)

    B-Cut-S from 7F to 8D

    SUB-BRT from 7F to 7C
    G-DRV-S from 5D to 6B
    R-DRV-S from 56 to 5D
    R-CUT-S from 83 to 82

    User Menu Settings are:

    Contrast 25
    Brightness 46
    Color 50
    Tint Middle
    Sharpness 38

    These are the settings for MY set. These settings, especially the drives and cuts, probably
    won't transfer to other sets. From what Mr. Busch told me, each set is unique in it's
    settings. Hope this answers some questions.

    Dave

    PS The set is much better now than before. My wife complained that the picture was too "dark"
    before and that colors didn't stand out. They do now, she noticed right away and thought the
    $550 was worth it!


    quote:
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Originally posted by Garand Jinn
    Can someone break down the cuts and drives in the ISF menu? Specifically the H, M, and S
    values----and the differences between a "cut" and a "drive"? I have read some general info
    about there function (greyscale), but nothing very specific as to what each does...
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------



    EASY---

    S= standard color temp control
    M= Medium color temp control
    H= High color temp control

    Drives and Cuts are what are uses to add or take away color and set you grayscale.


    Drives= Bright higher IRE part of the image.. like bright whites

    Cuts= Darker lower IRE parts of the picture... what you would adjust to remove color from you
    blacks or dark scenes.

    Everything has a relationship to each other...meaning change one place can effect the
    others....


    ................
    service menu convergence
    DCAM is the name for the Service mode convergence.

    You enter DCAM by setting first in the user menu magic focus to "AUTO" mode and pressing the
    magic focus button on the front of the tv set under the lift up lid to start the magic focus
    sequence.

    Once the magic focus is running....you hit magic focus button on the front of the tv
    again.....this gets you a quick "STOP" screen.

    Quickly, before it goes away you need to hit either the "INFO" or the "STATUS" button on the
    remote control (R/C) to enter the DCAM mode.

    DCAM is the name of the service menu convergence system.....


    You can do much more with DCAM....and even adjust geometry (green color)

    Here is some quick instructions on how to learn DCAM convergence:


    Manual Convergence for the Hitachi
    1) Receive an NTSC signal.

    2) Press Magic Focus to begin magic focus

    3) Press magic focus again during the magic focus process to get the ‘stop’ screen

    4) While stop screen is up, press STATUS or INFO on the remote control (R/C) to bring you to
    DCAM mode and the service grid (64 point grid)

    5) When you first get in here… I believe red is the selected color by default (it is
    flashing).

    6) To choose other colors to converge, use the following buttons on the R/C:
    a) “STATUS” - Green
    b) “0” - Red
    c) “ANT” – Blue

    7) Start from the center of the screen and work your way out on one color at a time. I
    adjusted red across the whole screen to match green. Then I switched to blue, and adjusted
    that to green as well. After you adjust blue, you may want to go back and adjust some red
    again… etc. until the convergence looks good.
    (a) Use 4, 6, 2, and 5 on the R/C to move the cursor position(dotted lines).
    (b) Use thumb stick to move the convergence point color.
    ** There have been other posts in here to tape together the color filters found in the Avia
    DVD to help converge lines more easily. I have used this method, and it works well for
    adjusting to a greater detail. Basically, you put the red filter next to the green and adjust
    your red to the green line both horizontally, and then vertically. Then you do the same with
    the blue next to the green. Some people recommended you should be at normal viewing distance.
    I did mine from just a few feet back from the set. Maybe my eyes aren’t as good… maybe I just
    felt like it worked better this way. There are some other posts also recommending using
    binoculars. I think it’s great that people suggest things to make the process easier… but my
    girlfriend would think I was insane if she saw me with binoculars on the couch adjusting the
    convergence. I don’t know… whatever works best I guess.

    8) I did not adjust the green at all. I use the green as the guide and did not adjust the
    location of any green point. This is highly suggested unless you have geometry problems.

    9) When going along the lines and adjusting, you may run into the problem of getting an ‘S’
    curve on the line. You’ll know if you get there. Basically, no matter what you do to adjust
    the line to be converged, the middle of the line between the points will not straighten out
    (it bends between the points). To fix this, the manual recommends going to the (7x5) mode
    which gives you less points to adjust. I had this problem, and the solution worked. There is
    also another mode (3x3) which gives you even less points. Basically, if the set looks good,
    you only fine tune it in (13x9) mode (64 point). If you have serious problems, the grids work
    as:
    3x3 – ‘coarse’
    7x5 – ‘medium’
    13x9 – ‘fine’
    10) To get to each of these patterns use the following on the R/C: (only if you need to)
    1. (3x3) Press “STATUS” 5 times (only works when DCU is in uncorrected state)
    2. (7x5) Press “0” 5 times
    3. (13x9) Press “ANT” 5 times

    11) If you adjust the 3x3, then you should go to the 7x5, and then the 13x9. You get the
    point… depending on where you start, work your way up, and always finish on the 13x9

    12) When finishing up the 13x9 mode, to get additional ‘grids’ on the edges of the screen,
    press the PIP CH button on the remote control while in the digital convergence adjustment mode
    (DCAM). Fine tune the edge convergence as necessary. To exit, press PIP CH again.

    13) When convergence is acceptable, press PIP MODE to write data to ROM memory. ROM WRITE? is
    displayed to alarm system that ROM will be overwritten with new data. Press the PIP MODE
    button again to write displayed data to ROM.

    14) DATA WRITE TO ROM will take approximately 4 seconds and no picture will be displayed.

    15) Green dots will be displayed when operation is completed.
    WARNING: YOU MUST DO THE FOLLOWING STEPS TO COMPLETE MAGIC FOCUS INITIALIZATION!!! THERE HAVE
    BEEN MANY POSTS THAT PEOPLE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITHOUT DOING THIS STEP BECAUSE THEY LOOSE MAGIC
    FOCUS!

    16) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then confirm again convergence is acceptable.


    17) Press PIP MODE and then PIP CH to initialize Magic Focus. The initialize operation starts
    and several windows appear during this operation. It takes about 30 seconds or less.

    18) When green dots appear, initialize operation is finished.
    19) Turn power OFF.

    21) Wait a few seconds. Turn the TV on, and you should have your normal signal. Press Magic
    Focus button just to make sure the magic focus still works (and that you did the last few
    steps properly)
     
  2. MichaelFusick

    MichaelFusick Second Unit

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    Nice to collect all this info and put it into one thread.

    Good work[​IMG]
     
  3. GlenHaley

    GlenHaley Auditioning

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    Thanks so much for this excellent instruction. I was able to make red push adjustments and fix some geometry issues on my recently purchased 51SWX20B and your directions were spot-on. All the best.
     
  4. JohnKings

    JohnKings Stunt Coordinator

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    Glen:

    I live in the Lehigh Valley as well. Where did you buy your 51SWX20B and, if you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for it.

    John
     
  5. GlenHaley

    GlenHaley Auditioning

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    Hi John:

    I bought it on May 6 and paid $2299 at CC in Phillipsburg(got free shipping thrown in). However, I noticed that they've reduced the price even more this week to $2185, so I plan to take my receipt back to get a credit for the difference (I think they have a low-price guarantee for 30 days). I also got an extended warrantee because of TV problems I've had in the past with other brands.

    Hope this helps. Thanks.

    Glen
     
  6. Mike_Thor

    Mike_Thor Extra

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    I hope the CC here has it for that reduced price as I'm to buy that exact same TV next week although I think they are going to charge me $30 to deliver it. Oh well.. [​IMG]
     
  7. Alfonso_M

    Alfonso_M Second Unit

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    I took delivery of the 57SWX last Thursday and I have a few questions, I haven’t ventured into the service menu yet, only did manual convergence and Avia adjustments, afterward progressive DVD looks stunning and I don’t see the any “Red Push” yet but I need to watch a few more DVD to see if I need this tweak of not, I’m a bit disappointed with SD satellite PQ and I’m not sure yet if it is a signal limitation, Satellite cable/distance or ‘focus’ problem. I’m using the Svideo connection and used Avia on the ‘movies’ mode to take advantage of the line doublers that looks much better.

    During local and network channel news programming and Baseball/football games I notice that long shots’ back grounds looks “blurry” and lacking details, while other channels with different programming look better. Some news clips during Network news looked terrible while the reporters in the fore ground looked better, I don’t see this problem with 480i DVD.

    Is this a SD 480i signal/source limitation problem or a focus problem?

    Do you turn back on any of the ‘Advanced’ video settings (Dimmer, Black level Expansions, etc) after using Avia?

    I’m also having a ‘Synch’ problem with the Svideo monitor out to my SVHS input, when the SVHS is fed directly off SAT box it works fine, any ideas about what this could be? Do I need to activate somewhere the Svideo out on the RPTV? Is the ‘monitor out’ the best way to connect the SVHS for recording all sources? Oh yes, thanks for putting all this tips in one page.Good job!
     
  8. JohnKings

    JohnKings Stunt Coordinator

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    To All seeking to purchase one of the SWX TV's DO NOT PURCHASE UNTIL YOU SEE THE FOLLOWING LINK (Scroll to the 5th post (Robbie's post) and then read on):

    Great Prices on Hitachi SWX Series TVs

    Ragards,

    John
     

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