Help, I need some speakers to match my new amp. (1 Viewer)

[dennis boyle]

New on here and setting up home theatre system for the first time. I have just purchased an Integra DTR-8.8 and now need to get some speakers to run with it. My plan is to run a 5.1 system in my HT room and then use the other channels to run speakers in the kitchen.
I am a complete novice at this so what should I be looking for?
Any help, advice much appreciated.
Specs for reciever below: (not really sure what is relevent and what is'nt. I realise with speakers you need to listen to them and specs are only a small part of the picture but I need a ballpark to search within)
Rated Output Power (FTC)
All channels 140 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 8 ohm loads, 2 channels driven from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, with a maximum total harmonic distortion of 0.05% (FTC)
170 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 8 ohm loads, 2 channels driven at 1 kHz, with a maximum total harmonic distortion of 0.7% (FTC)
180 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 6 ohm loads, 2 channels driven at 1 kHz with a maximum total harmonic distortion of 0.1% (FTC)
Maximum Output Power (JEITA) 7 ch x 280 W at 6 ohms, 1 kHz, 1 ch driven
Dynamic Power 400 W (3 ohm, Front)
300 W (4 ohm, Front)
180 W (8 ohm, Front)
Frequency Response 5 Hz–100 kHz/ +1 dB-3 dB (Direct mode)
Speaker Impedance 4ohm–16ohm
From my limited understanding I could run speakers with an Impedance between 4ohm-16ohm, is this right? If my speakers had a 6ohm impedance then i would need the speakers to be able to handle 280watts?? 8ohm 170watts??
Help please.

 

[Jason Charlton]

When shopping for speakers the only numbers you need concern yourself with are the impedance (ohms) and the sensitivity (dB). Wattage is meaningless - both on the receiver end and at the speaker end. "Speaker wattage numbers" are completely different than "receiver wattage numbers", and neither has any bearing on reality whatsoever. Ignore them (and any salesman who trys to tell you otherwise).

Most speakers are 8 ohm - that's the "standard". Some speakers are 6 ohms, even fewer are 4 ohms. The Integra may be able to handle 4 ohm speakers, but IMO, you're better off keeping your life simple and stick with 8 ohm speakers. 8 ohm speakers will work with ANY receiver down the road. If you get 4 ohm speakers, you'll limit your options for receivers should you ever decide to upgrade (and you'll be stuck with having to spring for a higher-end model).

The sensitivity rating is essentially a measure of the speaker's efficiency. Speakers that are at 90dB and higher are efficient enough that they will get plenty loud enough for you with just a few watts behind them.

If you have a budget in mind, please share it, otherwise all we can tell you is to go out and listen to some and find out what sounds good to you.

 

[dennis boyle]

Thanks for your advice, I have a budget of approx $1000.
When you say wattage is not important how do you know your speakers will handle the amp driving them if you pay no attention to wattage.
e.g. if my reciever has a rated power output of 170 watts at 8ohm, and my speakers were 8ohm with a wattage rating of 100, would this still be ok? sorry if this a dumb question

 

[schan1269]

And you aren't in the US either...
Is that $1000 US?

 

[dennis boyle]

No im in New Zealand, and yes $1,000 US. Thanks

 

[dennis boyle]

To clarify the $1,000 is to buy all required speakers in both the HT room (5.1) and kitchen. thanks

 

[Jason Charlton]

Originally Posted by dennis boyle /t/326102/help-i-need-some-speakers-to-match-my-new-amp#post_4014898
When you say wattage is not important how do you know your speakers will handle the amp driving them if you pay no attention to wattage.
e.g. if my reciever has a rated power output of 170 watts at 8ohm, and my speakers were 8ohm with a wattage rating of 100, would this still be ok? sorry if this a dumb question

Most "140 watts per channel" receiver, in real world conditions, probably actually pumps out at most 40 or so watts. To get a better idea - check the specs in the manual that say how much current it draws from the wall. Subtract, say 50-100 watts (being conservative) to run all non-amplifier functions of the receiver (the video/audio processing, etc.). Take the result, divide by the number of speakers you will have connected. Then (since no amplifier is 100% efficient, and in fact, most consumer grade amps are at best 50% efficient) divide that number by 2 to get an approximation of actual output wattage.

edit: the Integra does have power - according to the manual, for "Oceania" which I guess is where you are, it lists 1000w power consumption - that actually works out to close to 70 wpc "real world"...

Don't fret over getting 25-50 watts... that's MORE than enough for an efficient speaker.

The efficiency rating (dB) refers to the volume (sound pressure level) measured 1 meter from the speaker when it's fed a 1 watt signal.

So an efficient speaker can get near pain threshold levels (110 or so dB) on less than 2 watts of continuous power.

So yeah, get an efficient 8 ohm speaker and don't worry about anything else.

 

[schan1269]

Your "170 watts per channel" receiver, in real world conditions, probably actually pumps out at most 40 or so watts.  To get a better idea - check the specs in the manual that say how much current it draws from the wall.  Subtract, say 50 watts (being conservative) to run all non-amplifier functions of the receiver (the video/audio processing, etc.).  Take the result, divide by the number of speakers you will have connected.  Then (since no amplifier is 100% efficient, and in fact, most consumer grade amps are at best 50% efficient) divide that number by 2 to get an approximation of actual output wattage.
Don't fret over getting 25-50 watts... that's MORE than enough for an efficient speaker.
The efficiency rating (dB) refers to the volume (sound pressure level) measured 1 meter from the speaker when it's fed a 1 watt signal.
So an efficient speaker can get near pain threshold levels (110 or so dB) on less than 2 watts of continuous power.
So yeah, get an efficient 8 ohm speaker and don't worry about anything else.

The 8.8, US model, sucks 9.5 amp off the wall. Generously speaking...the 8.8 can actually come up with 152x7.
Even if you subtract 100 for video, it still has enough for 148x7. I've had my DTR 7.8 pumping out 85x7(and yes, it was excruciatingly painful...)
In case you are curious what I could have possibly have been listening to that loud...or at least trying to anyway...
http://www.amazon.com/Dark-Side-Moon-30th-Anniversary/dp/B00008CLOA/ref=sr_1_1?s=music&ie=UTF8&qid=1355783949&sr=1-1&keywords=dark+side+sacd

 

[dennis boyle]

Thanks again, alot to learn

 

[dennis boyle]

reciever draws 1000W from wall. I belive this is equal to 8.3a. So working of Jason's calculations my actual output wattage using 8 ohm would be 1000w - 100w / 7 speakers (do u include speakers running in other zones?) = 128w / 2 = 64watts

 

[schan1269]

The basic idea is most AVR consume somewhere between 50 and 100 for video.
So, take your 900 divided by whatever you are using...up to a "total" of whatever the AVR says it can produce when running two.

 

[dennis boyle]

Do I need to be looking at home theatre speaker sets? or can I just mix and match.
Any thoughts on the below for front speakers for home tyheatre 5.1 or 7.1 system? priced at $495 for the pair.
Klipsch KSF 10.5 Floor Standing Speakers
SPECIFICATIONS
¦DIMENSIONS: 38" (96.5cm) x 10.25" (26cm) x 12.5" (31.8cm)
¦NOMINAL IMPEDANCE: 8 ohms
¦POWER HANDLING: 100 watts maximum continuous (400 watts peak)
¦SENSITIVITY: 95dB @ 1watt/1meter
Thanks

 

[schan1269]

Mix and match within the same brand, preferably series as well, sure.
The speaker you chose will fill a room with under 10 watts.