Frozen driver - Veritas 2.2, how do I...

Discussion in 'Speakers' started by John Besse, Dec 28, 2013.

  1. John Besse

    John Besse Supporting Actor

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    The driver in my right Veritas 2.2 has frozen. I ordered the replacement driver. I have it sitting here and am staring at the cabinet trying to figure out how in the heck do I remove the old driver. I really would like to avoid a $60 fee from a speaker shop I've contacted to simply swap the driver.

    From what I can tell, there is one screw in the back of the new driver and the connectors are pull-type connections. If anyone has removed a driver from the Veritas 2.x line, please, please, please give me a few words of wisdom as to removing the old driver.

    Thanks,
    John
     
  2. schan1269

    schan1269 HTF Expert
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    There is a thread at diyaudio about a guy redoing the crossovers. Looks like he took the whole speaker apart(on phone so no link)
     
  3. Nathan_F

    Nathan_F Second Unit

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  4. John Besse

    John Besse Supporting Actor

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    lol, that is way over my head!!! I guess it's going to sit with a frozen driver for a few months until we pay off some of the Christmas bills and I can make time to drive the hour to an authorized Energy repair shop and pay the $60 for the driver swap fee. I was hoping it was something like, use a screw driver here, removed something here, twist off driver, remove speaker connections, re-insert connections on new driver, put driver in place and replace screws!

    I've spent a while trying to Google a video or some kind of instructions. Unfortunately, it's not out there. And, being mechanically-challenged doesn't help me out! Thanks anyways guys. Maybe I'll try to see if there is another speaker repair shop closer that can do it for me.
     
  5. schan1269

    schan1269 HTF Expert
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    Are you changing the woofer?

    It appears, when I looked when I could see the pics, you have to pull the crossover to get to the back nut of the woofer.

    If one of the other drivers...that wasn't shown.

    I did find a pic on Ebay that makes it look like the woofer driver screw is under the cap between the wire posts.
     
  6. John Besse

    John Besse Supporting Actor

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    Yeah, just changing the frozen driver for the new working one. I really think this is out of what I'm capable of doing.

    If anyone knows of a place in the Tampa Bay area that would simply pull a driver and replace it with a working one in the neighborhood of $30 for the work. Please let me know. I spoke with Simply Speakers as they're an authorized Energy repair shop in St Petersburg, FL. They're about an hour driver for me. They want $40 if I leave it overnight or $60 to do it on the fly. There is no way I'm spending forty bucks and four hours driving to repair the speaker. I'd rather it sit dead for quite some time! $60 and two hours of drive time is pretty awful too!

    Honestly, I think $30 for a driver swap is a fair price for an on the spot pull and replace. Energy made it sound easy. But, I don't think I'm capable of doing the swap without damaging my speaker. And that, I do not want to risk.
     
  7. schan1269

    schan1269 HTF Expert
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    Again. Which driver?

    Telling us you need to "swap a driver" tells me nothing. From the picture, it would take me 10 minutes to swap the woofer. You pull that plastic cap from the rear(that cap is OBVIOUS).

    If it is not the woofer(cause you have still not said which one), I don't know what to tell you.

    And you could probably mail it. I can't imagine it won't fit a USPS flat rate box.
     
  8. schan1269

    schan1269 HTF Expert
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  9. John Besse

    John Besse Supporting Actor

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    One woofer on the right speaker (6.5" driver).

    Actually that eBay link does help. I see what you're saying with the plastic cap on the rear. Energy advised all that was needed was a 5mm Alan key. When mentioned earlier, I looked on the back of the speaker and all I saw was a one-piece connection posts on a plate. When I took a look at the picture of the rear of the speaker with the five holes, I see the one in the center. Sure enough, there is just a plastic cap at the top and in-between the two rows of connection posts. I gave a tug and off came the cap revealing a place to insert the Alan key.

    So, if I were to take a stab at it... I'd just use the Alan key to un-mount the driver and in theory it should slide out the front, unhook the speaker connections and voilà - the new driver is ready to go in!
     
  10. schan1269

    schan1269 HTF Expert
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    What I'm hoping, for your sake, is one of the leads inside didn't just fall off...and the woofer really is dead.

    But if it does turn out the lead(s) simply fell off...you got a spare...
     
  11. schan1269

    schan1269 HTF Expert
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    Interesting...googled...

    Energy Frozen Woofer

    Wow...apparently a rampant problem with the Veritas...???
     
  12. John Besse

    John Besse Supporting Actor

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    Yeah, it's a big problem with the Veritas line. Great speakers. One of the best choices I've made in my home theater! lol, it definitely wasn't my choice of early adopting HD DVD and skipping Blu-ray! But, I definitely love my fronts. They are so musical and also astetically pleasing too!

    Anyways, sure enough. Alan Key, and a wrench was all I needed. The driver just slid out the the front. That long bolt didn't want to come off, hence the need for a wrench. Schan, as you mentioned, you could do it in ten minutes -sure enough that's about what it took. It probably took ten minutes because I needed to find a wrench that fit the bolt. My right speaker is back to its normal self. Thank you so much for your help. I really appreciate it!

    Back to the driver. The cone on it wouldn't budge. I was expecting to find insulation filled in the driver. But, it was just stuck. Maybe the magnet lost polarity or something. I have no clue. I'm just thrilled the new driver is in, and I didn't have to drive for two hours and spend more money to fix it!!!
     
  13. schan1269

    schan1269 HTF Expert
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    Cool. Glad it is back to normal. Have no clue how expensive the driver...but if rampant I'd buy a couple of spares. Or find out what, exactly, it is so you can go to the source.

    Although I'm not versed enough with Energy to know if they ever made any drivers in-house.
     

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