Cheap computer DIY subwoofer(s)

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Ryan T, Apr 3, 2003.

  1. Ryan T

    Ryan T Second Unit

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    Hi,


    I recently moved my computer away from my HT so I have a big lack of bass with my games and music on my computer. I'm looking for a cheap subwoofer(s) that can play fairly loud and cleanly. They don't have to go down to 20Hz or anything. I just need more low end punch around 30Hz and up. I would like to keep the cost around $50 total(I know it ain't much). I can get a great deal on these woofers at $18 each

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=7772&DID=7

    I've heard nothing but good stuff bout all the dayton drivers. I was thinking of building 2 3.5 Cu. Ft. enclosures and tune them to 27 Hz each. I modeled them and the results look pretty nice for my 14 by 10 bedroom. So what do you guys think there performance will be like? I'm thinking along the lines of the Cerwin vegas (output wise) or sony subs. Also I looked for a better single driver for around $40 shipped and I can't really find anything.




    Ryan
     
  2. Owen Bartley

    Owen Bartley Second Unit

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    I'm not too sure about those drivers, but wouldn't you want to look for something with a little more xmax?
     
  3. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    For a computer sub I'd just get the Dayton 8" driver and power it with some sort of small amp. Put it in a .77-1.25ft^3 enclosure tuned to 30Hz and it should be pretty good. I think using a 12" driver with a large enclosure like that would be overkill for a computer system.
     
  4. Greg_R

    Greg_R Screenwriter

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    If your total budget is $50 then where are you going to get a $30 amp + enclosure materials?
     
  5. Ryan T

    Ryan T Second Unit

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  6. TimForman

    TimForman Supporting Actor

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    If you can get a Shiva for $50 that's an easy choice. If not, I second Brian's idea. That 8" Dayton Quatro looks very good for a smallish woofer!
     
  7. Jeffrey Noel

    Jeffrey Noel Screenwriter

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    Ryan, I have the 10" version in about a 1.5+ cu.ft. enclusure tuned to 32hz. It is surprisingly a very nice sub for the money. Heck, $20 on a 10" that sounds nice, can't beat that!
     
  8. Allen Ross

    Allen Ross Supporting Actor

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    my roomate just picked a pair of those up to replace he spent advent drivers (i know, they are nice but they were way wayside, the surround had been gone for so long that the spider is perminatly non linear anymore)

    this weekend we will be putting them in and fireing them up hopfully they should perform well.
     
  9. Chris Tsutsui

    Chris Tsutsui Screenwriter

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  10. Ryan T

    Ryan T Second Unit

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    I have no doubt the dayton's will be excellent woofers. It's just the subwoofer part that they might not do so well in. I got an e-mail back from the guy and it's still up for sale WOOHOO! I decided to go with the low Q sealed agian [​IMG]. My .577 Tempest sounds so nice so I wanted to copy that design. I want to use the adire plans for the 88.5 liter sealed shiva. I'm thinking the shiva in my bedroom should be as loud as the tempest in my basement considering my basement is about 27' by 22'. I really want to finish the speaker instead of blank MDF this time. I have been planning to redoing my AV 1 enclosures as well so they can be finished nicely. I think the next AV 1 enclosures are going to fallow the original plans so no more AV 1 towers [​IMG]. Anyhow what do you guys suggest on building the sub. I've always built my speakers using screws along with glue. I know that makes it harder when it comes to finishing them. My question is how much harder is it to do no screws? I'm guessing you have to leave the sub clamped overnight for the glue to dry right? Thanks for the help guys. BTW Brian I never heard how your Tumult sounds (before you blew it out of course [​IMG]).


    Ryan
     
  11. Ryan T

    Ryan T Second Unit

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  12. TimForman

    TimForman Supporting Actor

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    If you don't have clamps then screws will work. The issue is getting your boards to line up correctly while the glue is drying. There are many solutions including biscuits, dowels, dado cuts, etc. Some have successfully used duct tape although I would think some of the adhesive would be left behind. If you have a router Dado joints are a good choice.
     
  13. Dan Wesnor

    Dan Wesnor Second Unit

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    I have a 10" Dayton woofer with about 2.5" Xmax that I'm using on the computer. It is more than adequate for music and games. DVD I've never tried, but that may be a problem.

    You'd be surprised how little low-frequency energy there is in most games. I guess they don't want to fry those little plastic boxes that the computer world tries to pass off as subwoofers.

    Remember you tend to sit closer to the sub on a computer. I'm about 1/2 meter from mine. That's about 16dB of free output vs. sitting 10' away.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Ryan T

    Ryan T Second Unit

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    I would still like to build a dayton 12" or 8" sub sometime. It would be interesting to see how well they perform. They seem to have good construction from the pics. They have a nice paper cone and rubber surrounds. Maybe I will build one for the downstairs computer. I'm really excited about that shiva. I want to see how it sound compared to my Tempest. And since I'm getting a shiva for music I might rebuild my Tempest into a EBS ported enclosure or just port my enclosure I have now (210 L sealed is my current Tempest enclosure). Since I no longer need it for music.




    Ryan
     
  15. Brian Knauss

    Brian Knauss Stunt Coordinator

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    I built a sub based on the pioneer 10" buyout at parts express. For around $30 total cost, its really not that bad at all. Enclosure is fairly huge though at around 4 cubic feet.

    The sub sounds amazingly good for the cost for music. I haven't tried movies yet though, so I don't know how that extra low end sounds.
     
  16. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    What Dan is describing is probably similar to the Dayton 10" DLS sub that was selling for $100 at PE. It's a helluva sub for the price based on most retail subs in the $200-$300 range. I think it would be more cost effective to use that for a computer sub. But if you got the jack and don't mind having tons of headroom then go for the larger subs.
     
  17. TimForman

    TimForman Supporting Actor

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    I saw that 10" Pioneer on the PE site and it showed the Xmax as .10mm. That has to be a typo but I couldn't locate another page with specs. Say it isn't so Brian K.
     
  18. Ryan T

    Ryan T Second Unit

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    I think this is the pioneer 10" woofer he has

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...D=120242&DID=7

    here are the specs

    "General-purpose OEM replacement 10" woofer with cosmetic trim ring and stamped steel frame. Features: 1" 4-layer V.C. on aluminum former, flat spider, paper cone, cloth surround, and porous cloth dustcap. Quantities are limited, so don't miss out!
    Specifications: *Power Handling: 30 watts RMS/60 watts max *VCdia: 1" *Le: 1.50 mH *Znom: 8 ohms *Re: 7.20 ohms *Frequency range: 44-2,000 Hz *Fs: 44 Hz *SPL: 92 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: 3.57 cu. ft. *Qms: 5.80 *Qes: .90 *Qts: .78 *Xmax: 3 mm *Driver Dimensions: A: 10-1/4", B: 9-3/8", C: 4"."



    Ryan
     
  19. Dan Wesnor

    Dan Wesnor Second Unit

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    Don't know what the DLS sub is, but I paid a whopping $20 for the driver.
     
  20. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Dan,

    It was a sub that PE was selling for $100 with the enclosure, amp, driver etc. A complete unit. They were having some amp QC issues so they pulled it for now. If you have a PE catalog it's in there.
     

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