Bi-Amped 3-ways (1 Viewer)

[Kevin_Martin]

I'm most likely going to be buying a Pioneer VSX-1014 and with neither the room, nor funds for a 7.1 system, I've been looking at adding a separate midbass to my towers.

Right now my towers are 2-ways with Morel MDT-20's and Vifa P17WJ's in .75cubes tuned to 45hz. I'd like to add either an 8" or 10" that would run up to........I think 250hz is the highest HP filter built into the 1014?

So using the 1014, I'd cover about 60-250hz with the midbass and let my existing towers take over from there. I'd likely seal them up as well.

I'm looking for opinions/suggestions on how well this might work as well as some suggestions for a budget midbass (I've been looking into Dayton drivers).

Thanks.

Kevin

 

[Dave Milne]

It sounds like what you are trying to do is use a couple of unused channels of your receiver to drive these "midbass" woofers. If your little P17WJs are having trouble producing high-level bass in the 60-150 Hz region why don't you just raise the sub crossover frequency?

The problem with your idea is that the new "midbass" woofers will not have any low pass crossover - they'll reproduce all the way up to "where they can't anymore". Virtually all woofers do really wierd and not-so-wonderful things in the upper reaches of their range: ragged response, beaming, lots of modulation distortion, etc.

If you don't want to mess with an outboard active low-pass, you could consider a passive. At 200-ish Hz, the component sizes aren't hideous...

 

[joseFMJ]

But the '60-250Hz' (actually 50-250) crossover points are output via the sub out which is in mono....how are you planning to use a mono signal to feed a stereo pair of bass/midbass drivers???

 

[MikeEn]

This sounds like the title of a porno movie.

 

[Kevin_Martin]

I should've mentioned that I would do a passive network to low-pass the midbass.

 

[Dave Milne]

Jose,
I think he's running a conventional mono sub. The extra midbass drivers he's talking about would be run off of a pair of the surround outputs and high passed in the receiver like any "small" surrounds. So with a outboard passive low pass, it should work. Might have a response hump in the overlap region between the midbass drivers and the Vifas, or a null (or some of both) depending on path length differences, crossover phase shifts and polarity. You can do a lot of fancy modeling if you have the tools... or just buy some parts and try it out.