Best Bang for the Buck (1 Viewer)

[JeffCar]

Ok, Lots of threads and ideas about doors, but right now, what is the considered opinon of the members here about what is the best approach for soundproofing doors. I have done what it takes to get good results out of the walls (staggered 2x4 stud on 2x6 plates, filled with fiberglass, two layers of drywall - 5/8 and 1/2) and I believe I am going with a solid core wood door (I have (2) 36" wide door openings). Any suggestons on manufacturers? Is a sandwitch of some kind better (like the idea of two denisty drywall types being better that a single thickness)? Other than your standard rubber gasketing, is there something out there that will help fill the gaps?

Just getting to the point of finishing off the doors, and could use some insight. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

Jeff

 

[Wayne A. Pflughaupt]

Hi Jeff,

I don’t see where manufacturer or construction techniques will make a difference. For soundproofing, the idea is to get as much sheer mass (read weight) as possible.

As far as filling the gaps, the door should be full airtight, including the threshold, just like the doors that go outside. The idea is to get the room as airtight as possible. Please note that this will affect the air conditioning in the room, as leaks around and under an interior door are what enable rooms to cool and heat properly. You may need to install an in-ceiling air return.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

 

[chris_everett]

You can purchase specialized doors that are designed to be soundproof, but they are _very_ expensive. A solid door is very effective, as long as it has a good seal and threashold.

 

[JeffCar]

Thanks Wayne and Chris for the input. I do plan on doing some work to seal the door and opening as best as I can. I plan on rabbeting the door edges in an attempt to get not one but two gasket areas, and I do have a height differncec at the threshold that I can potentially take advantage of to have the same along the bottom of the door. It will be tricky, but I am hoping I can make that work. That would give me a gasket seal on four sides and hopefully, two per edge. We'll see. I do have a feed from the existing air conditioning (rerouted one vent from the floor above which happened to be on a reasonably long run of insulated duct) and if necessary, I can tap into a return that crosses the opposite end of the room. I am hoping not to do that, as it is much closer to the central system trunk, and therefore more prone to spread noise through the system. I'll open that if I have to, but I am going to try it without and see if I can get away with it.

Thanks again for the input.

Jeff