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Discussion in 'Speakers' started by mulalleybs, Aug 8, 2012.
Just curious seeing as how I don't know much about it.
Design? Construction techniques? Or you can't even work a screwdriver?
well I don't have any wood working tools and I figured some people wouldn't mind helping out with that sort of thing. For the most part I could manage with what I have, but the bracing I've seen in most boxes looks fairly complicated and the fit and finish most people have done on theirs looks alot better than what it would be on my box lol.
I don't know how to work any of the websites that I've seen you post build sheets with, but if I have to have a big box, which you've already said I do, I guess I'd want it in similar dimensions to the towers so I can put it next to one of them (BA A360) H 41 13/16 W 13 5/8 (W is the dimension id prefer to change the most) D 10 13/16 (which obviously would have to change a little bit)
Then I'd probably try to paint it white or white marble or something since the towers are white.
Bracing doesn't have to be complicated. You can use something as scrap lumber for that. Just brace every 12 to 16 inches and you are good. Here's an example of the dowel rod method.
You obviously want the width large enough to accept the sub and the depth large enough so that it is a solid base that won't rock. But have you considered a sonotube? The woodworking in that design is simple and you don't need braces. The last ones I built ended up looking like this - http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/cylinder
Here's a construction page for a 15" sonosub - http://home.comcast.net/~audio-worx/page93PetesTube.html The only difficult part is cutting the end caps. A steady and and a jig saw are the minimum you need. A router works best though.
I think I like the looks of the box style subs more, but the sono has to be ported right? I don't have a low pass or whatever filter, nor do I know what one is lol.
You don't need a filter since you have the receiver for crossover function. Adding one to the subwoofer would be a waste of time.
As far as I know...drivers can be done acoustic suspension, ported, horn or transmission line.
You just need to build the box the correct size for each design.
Acoustic suspension "can" be the smallest box.
Horn tends to be the biggest.
Transmission line(technically just a "sub category" of ported) needs a very long thin box.
Well I'd prefer whichever one would hit the hardest but still maintain sound quality, but with cost and how hard it is to make in mind also. I don't really know alot other than sealed, ported, and now I just found out about sono. Obviously IB isn't a viable option, I would need more subs, but this whole time I was under the impression that I would need some sort of filter or something if I went the ported route.
All a port is for is to accentuate "some frequency"...
If you want a bump in 35hz, put the correct size port in. Likewise if you want a 25hz bump...
Transmission line increases efficiency and technically does not create a bump anywhere in the frequency range.
But if you want impressive bass...with an equally striking "box"...look no further...
I don't really care for the look of that sub to be honest haha. Well I'm really not sure once again there are too many options available! Well I guess I would prefer my most powerful bass for music if that helps out any?
On a side note, someone is willing to sell me a feedback destroyer for $50+shipping. I have no idea how to use it/what I would need to use it for or anything... Would it still be worth while for me to get for my system?
"Powerful bass" is subjective...
But in order of "most efficient use of available power and driver efficiency"...
1. IB...by far
5. Transmission line
7. Horn loaded
13. Passive Radiator
15. Acoustic suspension...
There is a reason I skipped a few numbers. There are also a few I'm skipping over(Isobaric, Aperiodic...)
You're gonna make my head explode! Maybe one day I'll buy more 18s to make an IB but it's definitely not feasible right now. Hmm alright well do you know of a easy to follow build thread on a single 18 transmission line? If it offers that much more power per watt or efficiency over regular ported and sealed then I'll just get over how they look.
Thanks for the help yet again.
I guess it should be noted that I bought the older version of the FI Q, I heard it requires a bigger box than the new ones
The "easiest" transmission line would be...
Build a 20x20x"something" box and stick a 15" piece of "some pipe" of approximately 6 feet on it.
Haha alright, it doesn't have to be exact then? Is the whole tube the port?
By the way, if you ever want to build your own speaker in the future...
Transmission line works the same way for each speaker size...
Lets say you choose a 1" silk dome tweeter...it would get a 1" round tube of approximately 6 inches in length.
A 6" midrange/woofer would get a 5-7 inch tube around 30-40 inches in length.
Technically, if you could find an 18-19" pipe, preferably plastic...that is 6-8 feet in length...that is all you need. No "box" required. You'd just need it the EXACT size of the mounting bracket.
No. This is a dual 15", sealed sonosub. http://home.comcast.net/~audio-worx/page88Tube-Zilla1.html
He needs a high-pass filter for a ported sub since he is using a pro amp. You never want to send any sub-bass signal lower than the tuning frequency of your enclosure.
A ported enclosure is actually a Helmholtz resonator - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmholtz_resonance .
Also, from DIYsubwoofers dot org - http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prt/
The ported enclosure system is characterised by lower distortion and higher power handling in the system's operating range, and lower cutoff frequency than a sealed enclosure system using the same driver. Distortion rapidly increases below the cutoff frequency however as the driver becomes unloaded, and the transient response of a ported enclosure system is usually inferior to that of a sealed enclosure system using the same driver. However, the lower cutoff frequency and better power handling within the system's passband often makes ported systems the alignment of choice for many speaker builders.
Below the resonant frequency of the enclosure, when the driver becomes unloaded, it performs as is if were not in an enclosure. There's no air resistance behind the cone to help control it. Excursion increases dramatically which leads to bottoming out and tearing of the suspension parts.
I'd get it. The inductance of the Fi driver will be pretty high and the BFD can be used to tame the inductance peak in the frequency response. I had the same issue with my TC-3000 drivers.
I will agree with number 1 because you can throw 2, 4 or 50 drivers at an IB. There's no replacement for displacement when you need to move a lot of air. Other than that, items like ported and passive radiator have almost the same acoustic output since they are both really ported boxes. A PR just replaces the port. Isobaric offers no additional output since you still have the cone area of a single driver.
You forgot tapped horn. Since it takes the output of both the front and the rear of the driver, it effectively doubles the number of drivers you are using. Tom Danley's "Matterhorn" is the most extreme version of this but there are a lot of guys designing tapped horns now.
I'll discuss sub theory with you all day.