Any suggestions on cool looking subwoofer "feet/legs"? (1 Viewer)

[Jeffrey Noel]

Well, I just recently finished my 95L PR enclosure from Adires web-site, but I don't know what I should use as feet. I am debating whether or not to use large casters, as this would make it much easier to move, as I will be moving out of my dorm room in May, then back to an apartment in August. Since the 12" sub, I'm using a Dayton 12" DVC instead of a Shiva, is downfiring, Adire says it needs ~3.5" of clearance, so I need some tall feet/legs.

So, anyone have any recommendations?

Oh, and does it really need 3.5" of clearance?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Marv]

I used coat hooks one time. You know the kind srewed to a wall to hang stuff on. I used the brass colored ones (white, chrome and black were available). I cut the smaller bottom section of the hook off and the srewed the remainder to my enclosure with the curve going outward. It looked pretty sweet and unique, I will use them again. Go to the largest hardware store and browse the knob and handle section you will get many ideas.

Good Luck,

-Marv

P.S. I think I ended up with just under 3" of clearance.

 

[Rob Lloyd]

I've done them with wooden legs, wooden legs with small spikes on the bottom and wooden legs w/ rubber feet on the bottom as well.
There are some pictures of the legs on Link Removed - under the subwoofer pictures/kits link.
Dowels would also work. I think wood is the easiest, least espensive way to get the height you need.
Let us know what you finally end up doing.
-Rob Lloyd

 

[Dave Poehlman]

I once saw a design that used wooden "doll heads" from a craft store. They are just basically wooden spheres with a screw hole in them.

Just a thought.

 

[Brian Fellmeth]

These look half decent.
ikea legs
Bottem endcap with legs

 

[Chris Hoppe]

I used some chrome plated sink drain pipes from Home Depot. Check it out...

They are 1 1/4" wide, and I was able to recess them into the base by using a 1 1/4" hole saw to cut about 1/3 the way into the wood. This made a nice groove for the pipe to fit in. Then I used a long bolt through the tube and into an anchor in the plate.

 

[Brian J Dupuis]

Now that's fine work and a fine idea, Chris. Nice going!

 

[Jeffrey Noel]

Chris, whenever I make a sono-sub, I want mine to look just like yours!! Looks awesome. Added this thread to my Favs to remember it!

And Brian, where can I get those ikea legs? Those would work great!

 

[GeorgeHolland]

I used two pieces of ¾” hardwood for each leg, one 2 ¾” wide and the other 2” wide. I then added a hardwood top with a nice ogee edge to add a furniture quality to my sub and I like the look versus just adding some dowels to the bottom. I also glued a 2" x 2" block of wood for added support and installed some big toe spikes.
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/georgehol...Photos&.view=t

 

[Steve Estabrooks]

George,

That is some fine craftmanship. I have also been debating on what legs to put on and how to finish it. After seeing your design, I have made up my mind. Nice Work!!

Steve

 

[Dave Poehlman]

Yeah George.. nice work. I think I might go for that look on my next sub and add some faux drawer fronts on it and no one will know where my sub is... until they pull on the drawer handle, of course.

 

[Brian J Dupuis]

Wow, that really is nice work, George, on both the Leviathan and the Visions . Yet another piece of workmanship to look up to in my own work.
As far as the ogeed top, I have often thought of creating a completely faux coffee table sub (Tempest-sized driver, perhaps 1 foot of height to the enclosure, perhaps ~4' x ~2' top), with furniture-grade ogeed top, faux doors and the works. Yours obviously is a good example... all it needs are some fake doors and it could stand anywhere with the quality of the workmanship you put into it. Very nice.
As an aside, how are you liking your Visions?