Another SVS thread... (1 Viewer)

[JohnSmith]

If you use your sub for 2 channel hifi AND DVD's (high + low levels) you must make sure the sub is not reproducing the .LFE and the signal from the left/right channels at the same time, otherwise you will get mixed bass from the main channels + LFE.

If you're watching a DVD disconnect/switch off the high-level input, and when listening to 2 channel Hi-Fi disconnect/switch off the low-level input.

Depends on your setup- probably easier for people with a AV amp (using low level) and stereo integrated amp with speaker b switch(high level) - you can switch the other input off by flicking b on/off and switching the av amp on/off.

I'm not talking about Rel's dual volume input- as that is very useful if people wish to use low & high level (since high & low level is far apart it's impossible to match the two levels up if the sub only has a single gain adjustment)

I don't believe the Rel's have seperate crossover settings per input though (or low level xover disable function)- are you sure the LFE signal is not getting chopped off to whatever you've set it to? (currently near the LF corner of your main speakers)

I used to use high & low level on the Rel, but setting the xover to 40hz via high level (for music speakers) will effect the LFE signal as this is a cascading xover (wish to set to 160hz, and use the BM on the processor) I removed the Rel for AV and got a SVS. Couldn't be happier. Not only does it sound better for AV but it also has features a ported sub (like the Rel) lacks- Sub Sonic filter, and xover disable switch (useful for any sub)

 

[Robert Cowan]

interesting comments from people.

subs are such a touchy area... no offense to your store jesse, but ultimate/soundtrack doesnt carry a sub worth mentioning. putting the SVS up against the REL studio (not storm, i would expect it to beat out that), and the new Velodyne DD series is some pretty good company for an inexpensive (relatively speaking) sub.

because of tactical financial reasons (read: huge discount), i will probably trade up for the DD-18 here in summer. but, as with all my stuff, i plan on marking the purchase date on the box, and at the end of the year, giving a few (yeah, not one, or a pair, but a few) SVS's a try.

it sounds like the say to go, plus they would blend into the decor with the 4 maggies in the room

 

[Mike Butny]

I believe my mirage bps400 subwoofer would beat any sub mention in this thread on hometheater material.

 

[Hartwig Hanser]

I did not attack SVS owners or tried to denigrate SVS in any way. So please do the same courtesy to REL owners.

 

[MikeLi]

I came from dual Atlantic Techs then onto dual NHT's, their biggest ones and amps. Had the NHT's for about 4 years or so and started reading all the hype about SVS. I talked to Ron at SVS. His first comment was let me help you place and play with your dual NHT's and see if we can get them sounding better. Which I did and they did somewhat but I still felt I was lacking on the low end. I waited forever 6 Months after he announced the PB2+ was going to be shipping. I was lucky and got on the first shipment. I can say without a doubt from my experience I would never ownd another sub besides an SVS.. The sound blew away my dual NHT's.... no comparison.... secondly a manufacturer taking and hour or so with me on the phone to try to get my old subs working better and more effecient for me.. Unheard of honesty. Wish there were more companies out there like this. SVS may never be huge but will always have customers as they reall take care of them.

 

[JohnSmith]

The LFE channel is already mixed with the other channels, (if set to small) LFE is not just .1 LFE only it's also .1 LFE + 5.0 bass re-direction (done at the processor/av amp level) So if you ALSO output high level from your L/R speakers outputs to the sub it's adding the L/R (around the 80hz point)

Even if you set the mains to large (or small 40hz) to all speakers I would not send LFE + L/R bass to the sub, LFE will only .1 LFE to the sub (if large), and if you also send high level you'll get double bass because the main speakers and subwoofer will be reproducing same, causing double bass.

Checkout Dolby site for more info on bass management.

Trust me I've tried it- that's the reason I bought another subwoofer, and for the reason the Rel not performing very well in AV. If the Rel had a relay to switch between the two (so only one input active depending on the which input has prioty)- that would have been great- but I had to physically remove the high-level cable if I was watching a DVD (integrated amp was driving the main speakers, pre-out from the AV amp) - then reconnect it again for music playback. Major PITA. If the av amp was used for Hi-Fi & music this wouldn't be a problem. And the stereo integrated hasn't got speaker a/b switches, so can't easily disable the speaker-level to the sub.

You need to switch off high or low level depending on what you're listening to. For AV you want to send the 80hz .1 LFE low level ONLY, and full-range high level to the sub using the sub's xover around your main speakers roll-off. Unless you can do this it'll sound bloated.

I would not set your main speakers to LARGE- try small 40hz, with the subwoofer to 40hz (on the AV amp) with the Rel's xover input bypassed/maxxed out.

btw, the SVS can output feeling/sound that was totally missing on the Rel before. Kick drums on the Rel did not have any impact, but now do. Movies like Jurrasic Park were lost on the Rel.

 

[terence]

You can read the rest of the thread here.

http://hometheaterforum.com/htforum/...=mirage+bps400

 

[Edward J M]

Hartwig - you are right; that was harsh - I must have been PMS-ing yesterday. :b I hope your REL exceeds your expectations and meets your specific xo and connectivity needs. One thing for sure REL has going for it - extremely good build quality and fit/finish.

 

[Hartwig Hanser]

John,

probably I am stupid, but I still not see, why I can´t set my mains "large" and then have both inputs activated. The low level input gets the full LFE, and the high level gets the

 

[Bhagi Katbamna]

I had a Citation 7.4 and a Altec Lansing THX sub(that weighed 75lb) running together. My CS 16-46(old driver went deeper and just about as loud). With the I version of the driver, it went deeper and a little louder. Now that I have a CS Ultra, there is a feeling of limitless reserve.

 

[JohnSmith]

Your speakers are not full range. Mine aren't either. When you set to large full range audio is sent to them (20hz) Full range speakers would be something like the JM Labs Grand Utopia. 20hz-20khz. Whopping great things with a 15" woofer. We have similar floorstanding speakers- therefore it is not advisable setting to large. I can understand why you might not want to set to 80hz, but setting your CDM's to small 40hz is the most logical thing to do, and using LFE only to the sub (or LFE plus high level @ ~ 40hz), with high level disabled during DVD's. The bass management in the processor does a much better job of mixing the DD/DTS .1 + 5.0 together and more accurate slopes, rather than your ingrated stereo mix + LFE hodge-podge. :-D

Not only will our speakers struggle (trying) to reproduce sub 30/40hz- it'll also put more strain on your amp. Even if you have a high powered amp it makes no sense setting to large if you have 40hz floostanders (speakers incapable of full-range) You will also have try and match the levels of the LFE output signal and the what you are outputting from the 2.0 high-level. Really this is a nightmare- so many things will affect the overall sound quality.

To get the best sound- set your mains to small 40hz, subwoofer to 40hz. LFE from your AV amp to the sub. And if really to use high level, set subwoofer knob to around 40hz, and disconnect/switch off high level when watching a DVD.

Unfortuantly I don't have indepth experience how the processor uses it's own bass management/slopes regarding large/small 40/small 80 and LFE only/40/80hz. Lexicon have some in depth white papers about this.

If you set to large on the CDM's and the subs filter out 40hz> it'll work.. but the processor the integration of speaker/sub will sound better. Dolby recommend using a single cable from your av amp to the sub. I cannot see anything where it advocates setting the speaker settings incorrectly to a lower setting that your speakers can handle, plus high level and allowing the end user to (try) to match LFE + 2.0 stereo together.

Your AV amp/processor will re-direct sub 40hz that your speakers cannot handle to the subwoofer.

I think high-level was needed a few years ago with Hi-Fi systems- but now since everything has moves over to digital sound, digital bass management & processing it makes sense for one unit to do the majority of that and just calibrate SPL meter. Getting the two to seam on the Hi-Fi system takes far longer, and even then isn't as good as processor-method.

Placing a subwoofer in the middle of the front wall is (usually) one of the worst positions. I believe you get standing waves that way.

 

[Robert Cowan]

subs are best placed in corners (resulting in boom a lot of the time), or 3/4 along a wall... symnetry in subs is bad. you dont want them in the middle of a wall.

 

[Jesse Sharrow]

I totally agree!