A non-sub post. Pics of my center channel construction. (1 Viewer)

[Ronnie Ferrell]

[c]
More Pictures of my center channel being built.[/c]

Well, I have finally started the build of my center channel. I took the plans for the A/V-1+ and made modifications to it. I needed it to fit on the shelf above my TV in my entertainment armoire. I only have about 7" clearance for the center channel on this shelf. So I decided to physically build the center channel onto the shelf. This gave me another .75" of room. I shortened the 8" measurement of the A/V-1+ by about 3/8". The cool thing I did was slope the front baffle down by 10 degrees. (I rigged up a large protractor with a string attached to it to find the angle from the center channel position to the listeners ear.) As you can see in the pictures the braces are also shorter than the normal A/V-1+s. I calculated the volume of the A/V-1+ and transfered it to my modification. After all was said and done including braces, my mod is .4234"^3 less volume than the original A/V-1+. Thats about the size of dice.

FYI: Handy tool alert!!! The plastic yellow 6" Compound Protractor you see in the photos came from Home Depot. It cost all of $5. It is worth its weight in gold!!!

The pictures show 2 center channels. Mine is the one that is built onto the shelf with the front port. The other is for a friend of mine. He is hanging his from cables from the ceiling so his could be ported in the back. His also has the 10 degree sloping baffle.

Now to get the things finished!


Ronnie

 

[Aaron_Smith]

As always, a very creative solution. Your entertainment center looks just like the one in my house (Rooms to Go?). I've been wrestling with the same problem, where to put the center channel? I have it under the TV is a riser I built which is convenient and looks nice, but leaves a bit to be desired as far as sound goes. I'm considering removing the center drawer of the entertainment center and making a custom speaker to fit... the 10 degree baffle is a great idea.

 

[Aaron_Smith]

One other thing... I have the same Grizzly table saw, but with the stamped wings and standard fence. Are you using the shop fox fence? How do you like it? I have the griz fence working well now but I find myself making perpetual adjustments to keep it accurate.

 

[Ronnie Ferrell]

Arron-

My Grizzly is the 1022-PRO which has been discontinued and replaced with the 1022-PRO-Z. The only difference in the PRO-Z and mine are the solid cast iron wings.

Anyway, I have the Shop Fox® Classic Fence, which is a Biesemeyer knock-off. It came with my model but is a $225 option you can purchase. IT is WELL worth the money. It took me about 10 min. to get it parallel with the blade and I have never had to adjust it on any cut. When you lock it down, it IS parallel to the blade every time!

The sticky back rule on it is dead on accurate up to about 15". From about 15" to 26" its is about 1/64" off, to long. I'm glade its too long and not to short! I measure twice on cuts over 15". If it is under 15" I just set the fence length with the rule, lock it down and cut.

The only down side if you consider it one is that the back on the fence is not locked down. This only comes into play if you are using something like "board buddies" mounted to the fence to hold the wood down. The back on the fence will lift up about 1/4 of an inch. I am going to tap a thread in the back of the fence, put a threaded rod in with a big washer on the bottom. The washer will catch the underside of the back rail of the fence. This will keep it from rising with hold-downs like "broad buddies"


Ronnie

 

[Patrick Sun]

You are mighty brave to build the bottom shelf as part of the speaker (but I suppose you can cut the shelf portion later if you decide to move the speaker into a different setup). Will you be rounding over the top edge?

 

[Ronnie Ferrell]

Will you be rounding over the top edge?

GREAT QUESTION! I have no freaking idea. I know the top edge left to right will not be because I am veneering the front. I keep going back and forth whether to round over the top edges front to back or not. Do you think it would look weird with the top rounded over and not the bottom? I almost rounded over the 3/4" depth of the front baffle at the bottom so it would match a round-over at the top, but its to late for that now because it's glued up. The front will be veneered and stained to match the armoire. The front lip of the shelf will also have oak edge banding and stained to match. The rest will be painted satin black because yow will never see it.


Ronnie

 

[Patrick Sun]

What if you sliced off the top edge all the way across at an angle to "round" it off (if you had a knife that cut through MDF like butter, the piece cut off would be a long thin triangular piece). That should allow you to veneer it without much stress at the bends.

 

[Henry_W]

absolutely great idea and construction. I too tinker with the uncommon measurements and enjoy seeing quality creative work. Good Stuff...

 

[Ronnie Ferrell]

Bump.

Added a few more pictures of the center channels to my site. It is taking me longer than I thought to finish them because I have been so busy lately... :frowning:

More pictures.

I still have some work to do on mine to get the color just right. I am going to apply a dark walnut stain over the Brown Mahogany Dye to get it to match the Armoire better.


Ronnie

 

[Allen Ross]

i love this pic, who knew clamps could be so dramatic

 

[Ronnie Ferrell]

If anyone is interested, here are photos of my finished custom A/V-C center channel. It took over a month to complete because of time restraints, but the wait was worth it. I am VERY happy with it!

Final Photos of custom A/V-C







Take care,

Ronnie