2 'lesser quality' subs = 1 'good' sub? (2 Viewers)

[Robert_J]

I used the same 12ga wire that I run from the amp the speaker. You do need a good soldering iron to heat that stuff up.

 

[Robert_J]

I used the same 12ga wire that I run from the amp the speaker. You do need a good soldering iron to heat that stuff up.

 

[Mike Thomass]

partsexpress boxes arrived today.minor setback, one of the caps was backordered (even though the site says in stock). not sure when it will get here.

 

[Robert_J]

The PE site does not give real time inventory information. That sucks but it shouldn't slow you down from cabinet building. Just don't put the fronts on and it will be easy to glue in the crossover boards. Yes, boards. I split my high pass and low pass into 2 separate boards when I build them.

 

[Mike Thomass]

Originally Posted by Robert_J
I split my high pass and low pass into 2 separate boards when I build them.

any reason?

 

[Robert_J]

Easier to fit into the cabinet. The woofer section fits on a pegboard square in the bottom. The tweeter section fits on the top. I zip tie/hot glue the crossover to the board before gluing it in the cabinet.

 

[Mike Thomass]

these crossovers pretty much never need to come out, right?

i mean, i see people might want to mess around with some of the components to tweak the sound to perfection, but aside from that, they rarely break/fail/wear out, correct?

 

[Robert_J]

After about 20 years, you may have a cap start leaking. I could replace it without ever removing the board.


People that tweak crossovers will set them up outside the enclosure and use a dual input terminal. They can tweak all day and not have to remove a driver. I don't know enough about crossover design to really want to do that.

 

[Mike Thomass]

i have 2 braces per cabinet.

where do i put them?
http://www.angelfire.com/music5/audio0/

between the bottom driver and the port and then somewhere below the port?

between the tweeter and the bottom driver and then just below the port?

it doesnt look from the picture that theres enough space between the driver and the tweeter. i could simply space them (the driver and tweeter) out a bit, but i dont know if they are placed closer together for some sound quality reasoning?

i also dont know if there necessarily needs to be a brace in the top 1/3 of the cabinet (i was assuming a brace 1/3 from the top and 1/3 from the bottom was the most logical.


thoughts?

 

[winniw]

It is best NOT to put them at a point that divides the panel into chords. That is, avoid 1/3, 1/4, or 1/2. Instead, use 1/3 plus a little bit and make the second one different from that. Dividing the panel by 1/3 or whatever, sets a specific resonance for each panel that it divides. You don't want six panels that are equally divided into thirds. I hope that made sense. Although for a sub, I am not so sure that it makes that much difference. In a 2-way or 3-way speaker it would.


Nick

 

[Mike Thomass]

Originally Posted by winniw

It is best NOT to put them at a point that divides the panel into chords. That is, avoid 1/3, 1/4, or 1/2. Instead, use 1/3 plus a little bit and make the second one different from that. Dividing the panel by 1/3 or whatever, sets a specific resonance for each panel that it divides. You don't want six panels that are equally divided into thirds. I hope that made sense. Although for a sub, I am not so sure that it makes that much difference. In a 2-way or 3-way speaker it would.

any thoughts on the driver spacing?

 

[Robert_J]

Squeeze the drivers as close as possible. I can't find the original measurements so the closer the better. Offset the tweeter and make the speakers mirror images.


As far as bracing is concerned, you can brace behind the tweeter if needed if you cut a notch into the brace. I'd put one there, a corresponding one near the bottom at the same distance and finally one in the middle.

It is best NOT to put them at a point that divides the panel into chords. That is, avoid 1/3, 1/4, or 1/2.

Can you please note your source for this information? I built my first speaker in 1985 and I have never heard of this concept.

 

[Mike Thomass]

ok, so when i ordered the parts, i overlooked a couple things. speaker terminal, and the port.

i havent a clue why one speaker terminal is any better than any other one, or why i would want one particular model, so currently im planning to get this:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-311

tell me if theres a reason i should get a different one


now, on the dayton 8 page, the guy said the port was 4x4.5" and he gave a part number for pe, 260-328. pe doesnt make that port any more according to customer service and their website. tech support suggested a 260-480 which is 3 3/4 x 7 5/8 and said to cut it down to 4" long. i gave him the measurements from the dayton 8 page. he also told me that the part number 260-328 that was discontinued was 3 7/8 x 5". he said the 3 3/4 x 4" would give a tune of 31.9Hz based on the measurements i gave him off the dayton 8 page. the dayton 8 page said it was tuned to 32Hz.

i have no idea how significant these port dimensions are. should i wait to complete the box and get an exact measurement and then determine the port size, or am i splitting hairs unnecessarily?

at the moment, im planning on getting the 3 3/4 x 7 5/8 and cutting it down to 4" length. i am ready to hear alternate suggestions.


lastly, my backordered cap wont be in stock until the end of april. this doesnt mean anything to you guys, just letting you know how lucky i am. im going to order the cheap cap and run enough wire that i can pull the board out and switch out the cap when it comes in.

 

[winniw]

Originally Posted by Robert_J


Nick

 

[Mike Thomass]

Originally Posted by Mike Thomass which is 3 3/4 x 7 5/8 and said to cut it down to 4" long. i gave him the measurements from the dayton 8 page. he also told me that the part number 260-328 that was discontinued was 3 7/8 x 5". he said the 3 3/4 x 4" would give a tune of 31.9Hz based on the measurements i gave him off the dayton 8 page. the dayton 8 page said it was tuned to 32Hz.

i have no idea how significant these port dimensions are. should i wait to complete the box and get an exact measurement and then determine the port size, or am i splitting hairs unnecessarily?

at the moment, im planning on getting the 3 3/4 x 7 5/8 and cutting it down to 4" length. i am ready to hear alternate suggestions.


lastly, my backordered cap wont be in stock until the end of april. this doesnt mean anything to you guys, just letting you know how lucky i am. im going to order the cheap cap and run enough wire that i can pull the board out and switch out the cap when it comes in.

ok, so todays ordering day. lets hope my stuff is in stock!

 

[Robert_J]

Your port idea will work. Just wait until the enclosure is built before cutting it down. Check out the psp-inc.com site for a port calculator.


Those are the exact terminals that I use.

 

[winniw]

Mike,


Here is an option if they are out of stock on what you want.


I always use long bolt, individual binding posts. They are very high quality for the price and I don't have to cut another hole but just drill a couple of holes. Here is an example. They are good for up to 1" thick cabinets.


http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1245

 

[Mike Thomass]

ok, just fine tuning the router jig (homemade i might add!) to cut the holes for the woofers and tweeters.


heres a question i probably should have asked a long time ago:


i was planning to use these as the fronts, and build a center and a sub woofer.

will these do fine as fronts alone or are they more geared toward being used in a system without a sub? and, if thats the case, would i be wasting my time building a sub?

i think i can answer my own question:

the receiver will send all the signals that are 80hz (or whatever it is set for) and below to the sub, and higher will go the these mains, center, etc. correct? so a sub will be needed and thus built, by me, soon, i hope

 

[Mike Thomass]

Originally Posted by Robert_J

Squeeze the drivers as close as possible. I can't find the original measurements so the closer the better. Offset the tweeter and make the speakers mirror images.

if you look at the dayton 8 page, those drivers appear to be about 6 inches apart. is that what you mean by 'squeeze them as close as possible' or would you expect like 1" between them and the tweeter offest way to the side?

problem appears to be that to get the drivers very close together and also fit the tweeter somewhere between the drivers (height wise), the drivers will need to be pushed to the edge of the front and the tweeter pushed to the other edge of the front.


i just laid out the drivers and the tweeter. i can get the drivers about 3.5" apart if i push them to about 1/4" from the side and snug the tweeter in between but it will be about 1/2' from the edge of the drivers.

sound good? is there a problem with the drivers and tweeter being so close to the sides of the cabinet? (1/4" or so)

 

[Robert_J]

The woofers are on the center line. The tweeter is slightly offset so that the woofers can be a little closer together.