12" Polk car sub to home theater. (1 Viewer)

[bbluesmoke]

So at the moment I have a Yamaha rx-v371 as my main reciever with the coax subwoofer out going to a Pyle pta-1000. From there I have that one channel hooked into the Polk car sub. the Polk is a DXI 1240dvc and rated for 360 watts rms and 720 watt peak at 4 ohms. The Pyle will send out 500 Watts at 4 ohms. So to recap:

Yamaha > Pyle > Polk.

Im wondering why my 8" Pioneer SW-8MK2 hits almost twice as hard (if not more than) as the Polk that is rated for over 3x the wattage at the same ohms. I tested it with the same songs with the same setups. Thanks!

 

[schan1269]

How do you have the DVC of the Polk wired?

That PTA1000 produces(if it is lucky) 600 watts at 2 ohm. Probably closer to 200 at 8 ohm(which again, how did you wire the DVC?)

 

[schan1269]

I downloaded the manual for the PTA1000. Says nowhere how much juice it pulls off the wall. Says nowhere how they come up with 250(stereo) at 8ohm or 500(stereo) at 4ohm.

So, if you wired in series you have 8 owm...or 500 watts. 500 watts "how"?

 

[bbluesmoke]

the Pyle says that is will push 500 x 2 channels @ 4 ohms and 250 x 2 channesl @ 8 ohms. but I have the voicecoils wired in paarrellel according to the booklet that camewith it.

so:

a ||=============||
m + ===========+ +
p - _________- ___________ -


(bad sketch)

 

[schan1269]

So you are running the Pyle at 2ohm. Is it stable at 2ohm?

Have you tried the Pyle in stereo and each channel running to each VC?

 

[schan1269]

The point being...

Without knowing the power spec of the amp(mainly how it was created) and how much power it chews off the wall...
And without knowing what type of box you have the Polk in(sealed? ported? Venturi? Transmission line? Band pass? Isobaric?)...

Who knows.

 

[schan1269]

The reviews of that driver are all over the map...

Most are summed up this way...

"Sounded decent till it died"

It is relatively efficient at 88db(at what? 20hz? 150? 200?)

Put a better driver in and see what happens.

 

[bbluesmoke]

here are the pyle specs:

[*]Two Channels A/B- Bridgeable
[*]Inputs: Electronic Balanced; Barrier Strip ,XLR,TRS 1/4''
[*]Speaker Terminal: Speakons for Ch A, Ch B and Bridge; Binding post
[*]Cooling Fan Two-speed DC fan, air Flow back to front
[*]110/220 Volt Switchable
[*]2x5 LED Indicator Red ,DDT / Clipping; Yellow, signal; Green ,power
[*]Overload and Protection Indicator
[*]Signal/Noise ratio: =102dB
[*]Distortion: =1.0%
[*]Frequency response: 20Hz-20 KHz >±0.5dB
[*]input impedance: balance 20Khz
[*]Input level:+4dB
[*]Total Power 1000 Watts
[/list]

The box is ported, don't know much more than that as I got it from my brother.

As for the wiring on the sub, how might I wire it for 4 ohms? The 2 ohm wiring is not creating enough movement in the sub itself.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[schan1269]

I already said I downloaded the manual for the PTA1000.

Those specs it lists aren't worth being written on toilet paper. The final "total power 1000 watts" is meaningless.

Is the 250 at 8ohm based on one channel at a time? Both channels? 1kz? 20-20K? Continuous? What it managed to choke out before catching on fire?

You probably need to check the wiring inside. I would wire that, with this amp, in series...since you are bridging it. That presents an 8ohm load which this amp "delivers" 500 watts.

What frequency is the port tuned for? 30hz? 35hz? 40hz?
Is the box braced in any way? Does it have any poly-fill?

Have you tried stuffing the port with some dense foam?

 

[bbluesmoke]

Hey, I ended up taking the sub back to Best Buy to get it looked at there and it turned out that one of the voice coils was at almost 6 ohms for its impedance. The other one was normal (4ohms). That explains what was going on. Also I returned it and got a brand new 800 watt Kicker.

Thanks again for the help!