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Im just curious on what your guys sub volume knobs are set around. I know it doesnt matter as each setup is different but my living room where my setup is around 14ft wide an it opens up into the dining area and kitchen and a hallway... so its not a real enclosed room at all. Still yet the sub...

As already mentioned the cheapest "HTIBs" arent really upgradable. If you spend 2-300 buck you can get the better "HTIB" setups like the onkyo ones that have an actual receiver and speakers and sub. Get one with a powered sub if you can. That way you have an actual setup that you can actually...

Can i just sit the sub in the seat and actually measure response with thr meter on the floor in various spots?

Its about 3 feet from side wall and 6 inches from front wall. so its in the front right corner about 1/4 distance of room width. This setup is in main living area so i really have limited space and it opens up to the dining and kitchen area so there isnt really a back wall until u go about 25 or...

heres some info The tones were a -30dbfs sine wave and volume set to reference (reference= volume that produced 75 DB with pink noise with avr balance tone) HZ...........sub(50hzXO).............sub(80XO).............Fronts (both)..............Surrounds(both)...

My speakers are sx fluances and a bic f12 sub. The freq response of the fronts are advertised down to 50 hz but the center and surrounds are rated to 80. I'm not sure if that's -3 as the speaker doesn't have it listed so I would have to actually measure to be sure. I kept the crossover at 80 hz...

Ok I was confused... I was thinking that even with the fronts unplugged that the avr would still try to roll off the sub and bring on the fronts even if no fronts were hooked up... If that isn't an issue i will just unplug them and get new data..

How do i make sure I'm getting a complete to the sub? My speaker config allows me to shut off center and mains and sub but only have large and small settings for fronts.... Im afraid even if i unplug mains the avr will still try to crossover even with just the sub

Sorry. I didnt provide enough detail... I run my crossover at 80 hz.... The reason i set it to 200 was to get all the bass signals to come from the sub. i wasnt aware of a way to disable the mains and I didnt know just unplugging them would do the trick...... Even with the crossover at 200 I...

Ok i can try moving it some, i am fairly limited to where i can move it ( on other side entertainment center) this setup in in my living room so i have furniture and tables to work around. What about the fact the mains start playing my test tones as the frequency raises??

OK i played around some, I ripped a bunch of test tones (-30dbfs sine waves) I went from around 25hz to around 180 in 10 hz steps. I then set the volume to "reference" i think it is ( the same volume that produces 75 db pink noise in AVR test tone) I then ran each one and ran the tones. One...

can you dumb it down for me some more lol? sorry i'm still learning. Do i just need to rip some sine waves and play them and record the readings and lay out my peaks and valleys?? What do i need to be able to adjust individual frequencies??

I believe they are all dts hd master.

I recently got a hold of an old radio shack meter (realistic 42-3019) its an analog meter. I turned on my test tone in the AVR and the AVR manual says to set to 75db, So i am assuming the signal is -30dbfs That seems to work alright, but when i go and stick in my disney WOW disc and run the...

OK here is my situation. I just set up my new setup and i'm getting a null in my bass response at my seat at around 70hz, its very noticable by ear. My fronts have two 6.5 woofers each and they can play 70hz and sound pretty good. I tried lowering the bass crossover in the receiver to 60 hz and...

The receiver should have an impedance range from like 6-16 or something like that, make sure the speakers fall within that range. From what i have learned, the "wattage" specs on the reciever are hard to judge and its not an apples to apples comparison, because they can measure the wattage with...

I am not entirely sure on this so i figured i would ask. I plan to upgrade my sub which now is a 10" downfire to a larger 12" front firing. Am i just going to plop the sub in the same place i found my current sub sounds best or does each sub have its own sweet spot.. or it just the room itself??

yeah i always recognized it when they made "full screen" movies that fill a 4:3 set but i just never payed attention to the wider screen tv, until i started seeing movies i own on tv and they are all blown up lol. I much prefer the native aspect ratio...

I know some movies are natively show in 16:9 but alot of them are wide screen 2.4ish:1. I notice over alot of broadcast channels alot are showing movies and they seem to be zooming in the picture to fill the tv top to bottom and then i guess are losing content on the ends??? If this is a correct...

Hey i have dish network and i am wondering if improving my satellite signal will help improve the picture quality of my channels or it just a on/off sort of deal?? Im showing about 65-68 signal strength in the dish menu.

This may sound like a dumb question.... Are all the combo discs with multiple movies on them going to be the same quality as just buying the disc with one movie on it? I'm not sure how big most movies are but I've seen discs with 2 and even 3 movies on them. There's one with master and commander...

Ok I guess the film stabilization isn't frame interpolation? I can turn it on and notice the SOE really bad. It's really noticeable on blurays. I don't like it and I turn that off as well as the clear frame..

So is there a way I can tell I'd my display really have a120Hz set? It's says clearframe 120hz but I've heard of 60 Hz sets that use the frame interpolation to get the "120hz effect"? But come to find out that higher refresh rare doesn't cause SOE?

any idea why the cinema mode setting is grayed out when an running my ps3?? Its locked out to "video" when i use my ps3. so if my tv is 120hz does it actually refresh 120hz all the time and its just the motion effects that make the image look terrible (soap opera effect) and not really the...

I have a toshiba 46l5200u display, its a fairly recent slim LED display. Its a great set and i did some basic test pattern calibrating and i am happy with the picture. I got bored and was messing around with the "clearframe" 120hz settings. first off all my equipment runs through my AVR and into...

ok i think i got it, thanks again.

Ok so when they are rating the units i assume they are using regular 120v power like they will be plugged into a wall at home?? So whats the deal with the (xnumber) of channels driven. for example my HTIB claims (570 watt system) 90wattx5 and 120w powered sub. The book actually says 90watts/1...

So is it the additional "channel" or driver that causes the power draw? Dos a channel with more than one speaker draw more thano if it was just a single speaker? I assume so...?

I have been reading and comparing and had a question. My AVRs book has the power output listed as 90watt/ch with one channel driven. I see alot of receiver specs listing with "2 channels diven" so would my receiever actually show a power output of 45watts/ch if it was tested with two channels...

I checked and I would be picking up 5.5 db sensitivity on the fronts and surrounds and about one on the center.. does that sound a decent jump? Is sensitivity the spec to be looking at primarily when comparing speakers? Also I assume the crossovers are when the speaker switches drivers to use...