I think you will be please with those components. Going to be quite a nice upgrade from factory speakers. Did you give them a listen before going out and purchasing them? Everyones ears are different, so I worry when people purchase their speakers without an audition. But anywho, do you plan...
if it is small enough to make the wire fit snug, that is a good way to do it, just possibly throw some sylicone sealer around the wire for water protection. if you drill a hole, again, get a grommet!
subs dont just mean loud booming bass like a lot of people thought it did when you were in high school. If you are at all familiar with what a sub is used for in a home theater, it isn't any different in car audio. There are frequencies that your mids just wont play. A good mid might play down...
But at the same time, you don't NEED to spend a ton to get good clean reliable power. JL has some very nice top notch regulated power supply amps (their slash series). But you don't need to spend that kind of money to get a good amp. Check into brands such as Precision Power(PPI), Soundstream...
I realy love the maturity and integrity that this forum holds. It is head and shoulders above any car forum or car audio forum I have ever been a member of! Karl: thanks for the kudos on that tutorial thread. I spent a while typing it up, because I figured, with this being a Home Audio forum...
well... a few things that need to be answered in this one (btw check the tutorial i wrote up in here... some basic things, but things that might help you.) 1. you plan on doing the install yourself? 2. what type of music you like, and what type of sound you going for? 3. what is the budget...
im not here to start anything or sound like a jerk... but this is the second thread where you post things that are either a. opinion, or b. entirely false and flaunt them as though they're facts.... im realy not a fan of that... you throw brands around and say this is good and that is good but...
Pioneer Alpine Eclipse Nakamichi JVC Panasonic are all names to keep an eye on. find one with the features you like and then i guess it would come down to aesthetics mostly if you find more than 1 that works for you. Crutchfield.com is a great place... HU prices are just about the same...
i wrote a tutorial in here, that i hope someone looks at sometime :frowning: it covers some of what you might be looking for... DO NOT WIRE THE POWER WIRE TO YOUR FUSE BOX! Wire it straight to the battery and make sure the fuse is no more than 6-8 inches from the battery terminal. No...
nice. hope you find one with everything you want. i know a couple of those ahd the front AUX jack so you should be golden. lemme know how it turns out and post pics also, read that tutorial... or have someone read it that might learn from some very basic info in it... i took a long time...
well i don't know how the pathfinder is built... if it is a true 2-din unit, there are some companies that make em... if it's anything like most of Chevrolet's stock units, it is 1 1/2 din not 2 full din.. but if it is a full 2 din, here are a couple: JVC...
well just about any single din aftermarket head unit will be an option. all you need to do is get the mounting kit and wiring harness and possible antenna adapter, but i dont think the pathfinder needs one. any other details on head units you might be looking into? I would suggest going to...
Because I find some fun in helping people, I want to just throw a few things out. I have been a not-so-active member of this forum for a few months, and since I enjoy helping people out and this particular section of the forum is more my forte than anything else, allow me to share a few things...
Wow this forum is hopping today :) makes me happy. I am FAR more in my field with this forum than the rest of the forum here(im on here to learn, not help, so im glad i can lounge in the CA forum here and help out as well :) ) now that I got that out :-P.... $200 is doable for a good head...
$200 bucks for a decent quality amp putting out good power for a pair of 10W0s running at a total impendance of 4 ohms, plus 75-100 watts per channel at 4 ohms at your front stage is cutting it close... lemme check something real quick... OK, If you are willing to up your budget a tad (I...
i would realy consider ditching the 6x9s all together. they will drag your soundstage back and just muddy things up. focus on getting a good set of front comps. Robert was spot on with those comps. I actualy had a pair for a little while $85 shipped for those is a steal. They realy can't be...
if you are looking at a 5 channel amp, i am assuming you are meaning to run your speakers off the 4 channels and these subs off the sub channel... you definately dont need a 5 channel amp for 2 subs... Now as far as the impendance(ohm's rating)... they are single coil subs and rated at 8 ohms...
so just to simplify what im reading here... your sub will handle 150 watts RMS(peak power is going to be next to useless when setting things up here). Your speakers will handle 50 watts RMS You have a 2 channel amp that puts out a currently unknown amount of power per channel... find out what...
coming from a SQ standpoint, and an in-car-audio standpoint. I ask this, why? Why are so many people trying to get 5.1 or other surround sound type functions out of a car they don't plan to watch movies in? I am not being sarcastic in the least bit, this is a serious question. I personaly am all...
I personaly would err away from the 988X series myself. Alpine has been going downhill sugnificantly in the last couple years. 2005 I believe was the last run of 983X series head units. After that they did away with 4v pre-outs on anyting below $300. And a lot of the important musical adjustment...
Not on all of their HU's some of their middle of the road and most of their higher end units do, but a handfull of their middle range and lower end units dont have that color selection function and a good example is Alpine's CDA-983X series.. Arguably the best bang for the buck line of head...
you post more things I want... Cadence Sound tripple charges me for an $85 dolar part.... then just as they are getting the refunds taken care of, I get a $232.00 cell phone bill... If this stuff is still kicking (or any other decent priced receivers, that you always have an abundance of), i...