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I currently have two Athena AS-F2 mains with the Point 5 system filling in the rest of my 7.1 set up. With an SVS PB12-Ultra for a sub. The Point 5's and the Audition series work great together, though I think I'll eventually replace the center (it's a ever so slightly anemic compared to the...

as for 3, general recommendation is to avoid spending $ on BOSE speakers where you could have either better speakers for the same $, or same quality for less, or both. If size is an issue and you really need small cubes, there are other brands that are well recommended. Rocket, IIRC, is one of...

what about the cable itself. what does the other end (the end that connects to the sub) look like? worse case, it's just speaker wire with a fancy connector on one end... you cut the sub-end of the cable and feed it into the left-speaker input of your new sub.

and here I thought we were going to talk about which goes better near field, Pinot Noir or Merlot.

Go to svsubwoofers.com and look for their FAQ on calibrating Subs. They explain how to properly use AVIA and DVE.

IIRC, the original F2's went for $600/pair at launch and slowly drifted down to the $400/pair price point, eventually dropping to below that right before they announced the F2.2's...

Horrible movie... but maybe someone will sacrifice their netflix/blockbuster queue? :D

ok, no bad poems this time. is the back/top panel physically moving/flexing? are you sure the rattling is not coming from within the back/top panel? if it's the TV shaking against the floor, you might be able to do something about that. For some reason, rubber cement comes to mind, as...

can some masochist plot the movie Birth and look for infrasonics? (the movie is bad, but there were some very convincing bass in there that made both my wife and I feel very nervous and apprehensive)

I believe you'll have to provide some more information. For instance, are you talking about the internal speakers causing this vibration? Do you have a sub? Is the TV on a stand? or is it standing on its own? Can you feel this with your hand? Is your sub touching the floor? Is the tv...

did that once... my sub out was below the right-surround out and, when looking at the back of the receiver upside down and in not-too-good lighting, I had it on the wrong one. :)

you could probably try receiver test tones at a very low volume also. anyway, tweeters hit the side of my house all the time. and they like hopping around on my roof.

I currently own a pair of Athena F2's (400) and the Point 5's (200) for a total of 7 speakers at exactly $600. The point5's come with 4 bookshelves and one center, so you can easily just go with that and a AS-400 for sub and stay under $600 with a 5.1 set up. works great with my yamaha...

once in a while, a bstock will show up with cosmetic damage. In those cases, as far as I've been tracking bstock, they usually show pics of the damaged area. They're a classy group and you're definitely in good hands with them.

just in case, don't forget to plan/consider how you're going to change channels/selections/etc. from the other zones. it might just be as worthwhile to get multiple cheaper receivers to supply the kind of music you need (cheaper 2 channel receivers for rooms you're only going to do 2-channel...

aren't you asking a lot out of your receiver? it seems like you want to put sound in 7 rooms I have the 5790 and it sounds good enough for my needs.

good WAF, i bet

as with all things, moderation may be the key. going all the way to 12 gauge for a simple 8ft run to your fronts is probably overkill unless you have 2ohm speakers. Here's a nice website that goes in length (pun intended) on the combination of gauge, distance, resistance, and your speaker's...

late april-fools joke, perhaps? the 'digital' part comes from the digital crossovers, I believe.

dang, that's still a lot of red, even with the shifted spectra. :) Seems like TheRing(tm)'s resonant frequency is 25hz. :D as for DaT, Kaj, I think we both agree on the lack of the infrasonics. I just wanted to make sure we weren't going strictly by hotness, but dynamics. Perhaps now that...

i'll be running the point5 as rear and side surrounds and center in 3 weeks, alongside F2's for mains. I'll report on the effectiveness of that setup with a yam5790 when I have it all set up and calibrated and LotR-trilogized.

Thanks for using the shifted-spectrum profile, it's less crowded with low db stuff. :) I don't understand your points about why the plots will vary. Shouldn't the bitstream come back the same if you're taking the LFE channel directly off the discs? Or are these plots not coming directly...

Hi Kaj, the 2nd one is exactly what I was thinking of! I guess my bad 'paint' rendition turned out ok (that or you're a mindreader) :) I'll save the pics now and try to do a side-by-side against that and the original and provide my take on the various profiles. :D Ok... here's my stitch of...

I'm going to have to email you what I have in mind, since I can't put pictures up it seems... (at least I don't know how) maybe you can take one scene and do a comparison between the various color schemes to see which one provides us better resolution? again, your work is greatly appreciated...

it might increase speaker efficiency (less power needed to move the voicecoil) but reading the link above indicates that the magnet is so strong it acts as a compass... hopefully your new C1ii won't twist around to point 'north' on you.

my observation of the above cut & paste: um, wouldn't a nice layer of latex/plastic help in that regard? :D

NEODYMIUM SUPERMAGNETS http://www.amasci.com/neodemo.html Supermagnets once were fantastically expensive. Tiny cobalt-samarium magnets were priced far higher than any educator could afford. But there currently is another type of magnet that is stronger than CoSm magnets and costs far less...

looks great, and highly appreciated. Since you're asking for suggestions, I'm wondering if there's a way to weigh the scaling... seems like it goes from -70db to 0 linear, blue to pink... but the collective 'we' here are probably more interested in the -30db to 0 range... is there any way to...