I would snag those atom's if you are willing to part it out, but otherwise good luck selling, I have the same system and you can't beat it for 400 bucks
Get a radioshack SPL meter, its like 35-40 bucks, get a cd of test tones with tones at each frequency your eq can adjust. Play each tone and record the level, and then adjust them flat. Most people will not like a dead flat reponse, so a smiley face may be possibly (increase low end gradually...
You put the foam on the walls of the enclosure, cover all of them. Then if you would like you can stuff it with a bit of polyfill, but you most likely won't need any or much. All polyfill does is trick the sub into thinking its in a bigger box by slowing the waves (actually more complicated, but...
I would personally recomend the vinyl from parts express. It is extremely simple to apply, and looks damn good if you put a bit of time into it. It took me about 25 minutes to apply completely, and is very cheap.
Unhook your sub and use a volt-ohm-meter to see if anything is coming out of the outputs (set it to AC). Are your gains set high? Did you check the ground (It wouldn't light up at all if it wasn't grounded, but it could be loose and that could have caused the amp to blow) Where any wires loose...
^^ Although typically a sealed box will give you a flatter reponse than a ported sub it is a misconception. A properly designed ported box will yield nearly the exact same sound quality while allowing a theoretical 3db increase.
:) Those stereo stores trying to make a buck once more *sigh* Those are not poor subs, but not necessarily sound quality subs. I figure he is charging you about 150 for one of them? They are anything but the audiophile sub though. As far as DVC and SVC go they denote the number of voice coils...
Maybe toy with the x-overs on the amp? Otherwise it is most likely in the install. Where are the tweets mounted? All cars are different and theres a good chance that z may like something different. If its too harsh reflect them off the windshield. You should not be eq'ing yet when you are having...
You're very welcome, if it doesn't seem to be the ground, which I have a feeling isn't the problem, see if you can get your hands on another amp and if that will fix the problem. Good luck.
I would personally get them from Infinity, I have had excellent expereinces with their CS recently, and would atleast give it a shot to try and get a new x-over. Building your own is very difficult, the x-over is really what determines the sound of the speakers, and the engineers at infinity...
Bah, theres better for the money. But that is beside the point, don't spend money on new equipment until you know its the equipments problem. Check the ground on the amp, is it tight up against bare metal? Are all the connections tight in the amp, are the speaker wires loose at all or oxidized...
Sound deadening. Your best bet is to go to a lowes (if you have one around you) and pick up some peel and seal, its sold in the roofing section and comes in about 6in by 12ft rolls. It sounds like all you are really concerned with is the rattling, so just doing the actual hatch of hte car, and...
It will lower the tuning frequency. How much depends on a lot of other variables, if its going to be very difficult to correct listen to them first, see if they sound good to you, if you aren't impressed go hack away.
Adire Koda 8 is another excellent choice, get a profile amp to power it. My only recomendation would be to port it though. An eight in car really is not very loud sealed (Unless we're talkoing 12w7, then maybe). So port it around 30-37hz and you should be golden.
I personally doubt it is actually a hardware problem. It could very easily be a ground issue. If you have external amps, ground them to one location, that is stripped to bare metal and screwed tight. If you only have a headunit, slide it out and make a new ground on a solid piece of chassis...
Alpine SPX-177a Resonant Engineering RE Components CDT's 61 aren't bad Check out some of Diamonds stuff as well. I would suggest going to a shop and listening to some sets, see what you like, then buy them online.
Usually sub "volume" controls do not exist. They are gain controls, used to match your sub amp with your receiver, you should play leave your receiver at 0, and turn it up to a little above normal listening levels, then turn the sub gain up until it seems to blend in with the music. If it is not...
To tell you the truth, shy away from most of the brands mentioned above if you are truly trying to save money. As far as a HU goes, an upgrade is not mandatory, you can use a line output convertor (LOC) to connect to your amp. Although if your stock HU does not have any special features in it...
Nakamachi's are by far some of the best HU's I have ever worked with. Blend in with most stock interiors nearly seamlessly. They also sound incredible. I would go with a Nak if you've got the money. I currently run a Alpine 7995 and am very happy with it, but it does have some degree of "bling"...
I think the tempest enclosure is going to be quite a bit too large. 120 liters is pretty freaking big IMO. Maybe I should alter my initial request to simply a sub that is better for music and HT, and volume is not necessarily a huge factor.
It is more like 20 x 15, it also is a dorm room, so it has concrete walls which won't absorb much sound. I guess I am not as worried about filling the entire room with bass as I am having it pretty small and sounding good, atleast within a reasonable range around the sub.
Thanks a Lot !! But is there any sub I could replace that with in order to achieve a 4ohm load rather than 8? The sub really would not be getting more than 150rms at 8.
Alright, I'm currently looking for a sub either 10 or 12, I can power with 270watts at 4 ohms. It needs to be in a small box, so I'm thinking sealed, which is sort of why I'm asking this question. Will I be able to fill up a relatively big room, 25-30 by 15 with a sub this small? I'm not talking...