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Ok so I used to live on the top floor of a triplex. My sub is a HSU VTF-3 MK3and the room was about 13ft X 13ft with standard 8 ft ceilings (1352 cubic ft)and it pounded the crap out of my place now i just bought a condo and I live on the ground floor which is hardwood over cement. The new room...

So my current set up is: Receiver: Pioneer VSX-1014TX Fronts: B&W DM 604 - S3 x 2 Rears: B&W DM 602 - S3 x 2 Centre: B&W LCR 600 - S3 Sub: HSU VTF-3 MK2 The problem is I want it to be louder, I have the DM 604's bi-amped from the Pioneer but it seems as though they are still not...

Ok, so I have the Pioneer 1014 matched up to a bi-amped pair of B&W 604's, with B&W 602 surrounds, a B&W LCR600 centre and a Dr HSU VTF-3 subwoofer. But the problem is I am not getting enough "punch me in the face" power from my mains. So I am thinking I need to get a separate 2 ch power amp for...

I have a Pioneer 1014 and the only option for the rack is to have only about 1 inch of space above the amp, now I know this is very bad so I want to get a few amp fans to help with dissapating the heat, I can put 1 fan on top near the back and then maybe two on the sides. Does anyone have any...

As Peter said, and what the Hitachi rep told me was the LCD is not subject to interference in regards to a magnetic field

it's actually just the 50V525, (the 50V500 replacement) and the price was $2500 Canadian

Funny you should say that I should swap for the KDFE50A10. After talking to a few people I decided not to go with DLP as per some of the above issues and risk of the rainbow effect. What I ended up doing was going and buying the KDFE50A10 and setting it up right beside the Hitachi 50" Rear...

Ok so I just purchased a 50" Hitachi Rear Projection LCD, but now I am thinking of taking it back to get a DLP. I would be getting either the 50" Samsung HLR5067W or the 52" Toshiba 52HM95. Anyone have any opinions on these two DLP's? Or should I just keep my rear projection LCD?

I currently have a Pioneer 1014TX receiver with Athena speakers and a Dayton sub. I just purchased (yet to receive) B&W DM604-S3 front towers, B&W DM602-S3 rear surrounds, B&W LCR600-S3 centre channel and an HSU STF-3 Subwoofer... now my question is will the Pioneer Receiver be enough to power...

Many people have told me that if I am listening to at least 50% of electronic music then Maybe the HSU STF-3 or STF-2 is probably better. My PRIORITY or main goal is to get as close to the sound you would get at a nightclub but on a much smaller scale... the home theater bass is secondary... any...

So for the actual price to my door (Canada) the SVS PB12-ISD will be about $200 (Canadian) more then the SVS PB10-ISD. Now after reading everything I know the PB10 is an amazing sub so I would assume the PB12 is even better but is it worth the extra $200?? The room is 14 x 14 (50% electronic...

Ok, so I know that these subs are not really in the same class but this is my dilemma... I can get a used Tannoy PS115 for $425 or a brand new SVS PB10-ISD for $429, the Tannoy is only 100 watts but it's a 15" sub. The SVS is 300 watts but it's only a 10". Does anyone have experience with either...

the $499 price was at BestBuy.ca

Good point Roger, I never actually thought of that. That's probably exactly why I heard such a large difference... Thanx

From what I understand Nigel is in the Toronto area or at least the store he was talking about is and I'm not sure about the tax part of it... So Nigel... any more details?

So my uncle has a Technics SA-AX540 amp (rated at 100 watts per channel in to 8 Ohms) and he was using two Cerwin Vega CLSC-12 towers (8 Ohms, 300 watt peak)) for the fronts. Now his amp is saying overload. There are no loose wires crossing and there is plenty of air around the unit. The next...

I only had two speakers set up on the rear surround/second zone terminals. It very well may have just been the factory settings but either way it was louder, and Brent I wasn't bitching, I thought it was quite fun... after all I invited Nigel over for dinner p.s. Nigel, since we are friends...

Yo Nige buddy old-pal, you can now officially forget the invite for dinner... but that's ok, I will eat your steak as well! ;) Brent: I'm not sure whether it is more control over the woofer movement or not and I'm not "pretending" to know everything such as my friend from above but when I...

Nigel, I thought you were somewhat intelligent but you are an idiot, even if I was wrong (which I'm not) you have the mentality of a 5-year-old and it's obvious by your posts in this thread and many other posts you have made.

So I guess that means I shouldn't set you out a plate for dinner??? ;)

Like I said earlier how about you come on over and we'll look at it "together"

How about you go try it and amaze yourself although I'm quite sure that once you have proven me correct you will not admit it... For you to say that me and at least one other person with the exact same amp and many people sitting in front of it when it happened did not actually here any...

The only possible thing I can be wrong about is that the power doubles. What I absolutely am NOT wrong about is the fact that my two speakers got substantially louder when hooked up this way, if you dont believe me perhaps you should physically try it before you criticize what I am saying. I...

ummmmmmmmmm yes I did, the two front's got substantially louder, and there was only 1 set of speaker wires per speaker the only thing I was wrong when I explained it was that the two speakers were hooked up to the surround back or second zone posts on the back and not the front main posts but...

do you only have two speakers hooked up? and if so which terminals are they hooked up to? If I unhook everything and have 1 speaker on the front left and 1 speaker on the front right, then under the SURR BACK SYSTEM menu you have normal selected, if this is changed to bi-amp the power doubles to...

I absolutely have done this, I had my two tower speakers hooked up to the front left and front right which are not bi-ampable while I was waiting for the rest of the speakers and I went in to the menu and choose bi-amp under the rear surround option and my two front speakers instantly had double...

Which remote did you use as the "middle" remote? Because I just went out and bought an RCA learning remote and it could learn the Pioneer remotes functions but it could not teach them to the MX-500

And your speakers DO NOT have to be bi-ampable, when you choose bi-amp in the menu it will just double the power going to the front mains

you could use the rca audio output on your Tivo and patch that directly to your TV but then still use the optical or digital coax cable to go from the Tivo to your 1014, so then you can use the 1014 for "good" audio and just use the tv speakers for "regular" audio

I can not get my Home Theater Master MX-500 to control the surround functions on my Pioneer 1014, even when teaching the MX-500 with the Pioneer's remote... anyone else have this problem and/or solution?