make sure you got a decently powered router too. Those lock miter bits are mighty heavy and it takes some nut to spin them. I almost wished I had something bigger then my PC 960 for my 1/2 shank MLCS lock miter, i did turn the speed down though.
I can def do an active cross over cheaper then a passive one, I have about 30 BB op amps sitting right here i got as free samples. The caps and resistors, even nice ones shouldn't run me more then 50 bucks, wafer board and PS shouldn't be more then 30ish so I am still a head of the game compared...
I am upon my next project. I am looking to build a pair of mini monitors, two way actively crossed. I am looking for extension on the lowend but nothing to big for the enclosure, I know I am asking for best of both worlds but I know there a some ideas out there. I was looking at the Adire...
why not look at Crowns DC line? two of the 300s can be had on ebay for around 500 shipped, and will be around 600X2 (4 ohm load I am guessing). Also look at THD of whatever amp you are looking at, even though they are powering subs, no one ever wants distortion. (i am not a big fan of...
the average person isn't gonna spend the time jumping from site to site covering the vast majority of information, plus if the salesman knows what he is talking about, he will make the sale rather then saying, this one will sound great.
if you want to try your hand at building an Amp Check out Chipamp.com the LM3875 stereo kit would do you just fine, all you would need is to get a transformer, some wire, RCA and binding posts, and your choice of case. theres tons of info out their under the term Gain Clone. all could be had...
never said the concept was tough, it was how each company twisted the standard and soon everything was all messed up with so many different ways of doing this simple communication.
nice job of implementing it all in that small box. before hooking it up to speakers, test it using a multimeter, see what the DC offset is at the output terminals, shouldn't be prob more then 100mv. But if you just took the circuit from one box and put it in another you should be fine, seeing...
sounds like a muddy hum that isn't anywhere need the sound it should be reproducing. run a sin sweep, if you find one that does it slow enough you can hear it for a short second.
Ah i see you post on two sites, the answers on DIYAudio pretty much cover it up, The resistance of the air moving in and out of the port (it can't do it as fast as the driver) tames the port movement, but anything below the tuning freq and excursion goes sky high.