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I use actively tri-amplified main speakers, with a cross-over on top of the amplifiers rather than built into a powered speaker. Since they opperate into purely resistive impedances text book cross-over designs have the intended frequency response. This doesn't change with output level as it...

Stewart and others sell motorized screens with trap doors that can be completely recessed. Talk to Jason at AV Science for a competive quote.

You'll have an output boost of up to 6dB at lower frequencies, starting in the midrange. If you must have in-wall speakers, buy or build something designed to go there which uses an MDF enclosure so it doesn't suffer from wall cavity resonances. Or build a false wall covered in grill cloth...

You'll loose a little output if it's on top of the shelves instead of in a room corner. Assuming you've already placed the main speakers on the shelves and did not buy a speaker designed for on-wall or in-wall placement, you've already compromised acoustics. In this case don't worry about it.

Buy a 2-gange decora wall plate, plus 2 inserts with 2 pairs of binding posts or banana jacks each (Parts Express, Niles, etc. all sell them). You can get 4-pair inserts, although they won't accept standard dual banana plugs (the insert is too small)

Linkwitz Orion. The open midrange is a little like a Martin-Logan, although the bass is much better integrated, the sweet spot much larger, and the high-end isn't as scattered. Nothing matches the bass quality although it's not hard to play louder in the last octave. I haven't heard a...

1.5 screen widths from a 16:9 screen (2.7 screen heights for aspect ratios

1.5 screen widths from a 16:9 screen (2.7 screen heights for aspect ratios

That's a pretty small screen. In the absence of projection artifacts, most of us like to be at about 1.5 screen widths. IOW I use a 87x49" screen (100" diagonal) with seating at 11', and would consider 96" wide or 110" diagonal would be more appropriate for 12'. You really need to live with...

The idea's to use existing screw holes of some sort. Usually the terminals are in some sort of cup. If this is on the rear of the speaker, you might make an L or C-shaped bracket.

You can attach an Omnimount to a plywood base, which in turn screws to a speaker through the holes used for its terminal cup.

Try something like this. You can get the Omni-mounts to hold over 100 pounds, the pipe-adapters allow you to place the speakers at an arbitrary height, and you don't need to drill any visible holes. The side surrounds are placed for minimal localization and interferance with the walls -...

For a CRT or digital? Putting 200+ pounds on your ceiling requires a bit more structural integrity for which unistrut, all-thread, and C-section steel work well.

DBS and VHS are unwatchable at the same width as DVDs (about 1.5 widths for DVDs at aspect ratios of 1.85:1 and under, and as close as 1.25 widths for good scope transfers0, and wide screen DVDs are too small to be immersive once you back up enough to have an acceptable image on those sources...

In the absence of projection artifacts, a 90" diagonal 16:9 screen would be ideal at 10'; 73" at 8'. The larger screen will provide a more immersive experience for your back row. Sitting more than 9' from the screen, two-piece projection systems are necessary to achieve a good immersive...

"My god it's huge" "That was better than the movie theater" "The best I've seen in a private home" "Clean" "I bet it really cranks once you turn it up" (said after experiencing clean peaks past 100dB.) One of my friends had to buy a new digital projector after experiencing my...

100" what? Wide? Diagonal? If diagonal, what aspect ratio? I have a 13x19x8' room, 87x49" screen on one of the short walls. This works great for a first row 11' from the screen. 6-8 people fit no problem. An extra 1-2' of width would probably be ideal to allow a bit wider main speaker...

Screen size is entirely dependant on where you sit, what artifacts your projector has, and how sensitive you are to those artifacts. I think a seating distance to screen height ratio of about 2.7-2.9 works best assuming you projector lacks screen door/scan line artifacts (CRT scaled...

1. Note that you can't legally have 15/20A outlets on a 30A breaker. 2. I have 6 stereo power amps (7.1 with actively tri-amplified fronts) having a total placarded maximum consumption of 5760 Watts. They work fine on a 15A circuit, probably because the consumption at idle is just 350W total...

I finished these nearly a month ago, had a friend snap a couple of digital pictures, and found the lost e-mail containing them. Orion photos+review

I'm running Adcom 555ii stereo amps (about $400 used) on my front bass drivers + sub woofer. No fan, low noise, and otherwise reasonable. 200W into 8 Ohms, 325 into 4, 600 bridged into 8 Ohms, 800 bridged into 4.

I used ceiling fan boxes, matching box covers, 1/2" pipe flanges drilled to match the ceiling fan stud spacing, 1/2" pipe nipple (Home depot has this available in a lot of lengths, 2" appart), Omnimount -PA mounts, and plywood cut to fit the bottoms of my side surrounds and drilled with the...

Place the speaker more optimally (atop a television, in an entertainment unit, or close to a wall doesn't qualify. On a stand beneath and infront of the display is good). Or upgrade to higher quality speakers.

No. When the space a transducer operating into is cut in half, you get 6dB more on-axis output. IOW, a sub-woofer in the corner of an infinitely large room plays 18dB louder than the same woofer floating in the middle of the room. A sub-woofer in the middle of a parking lot plays 6dB louder...

I used Xantech IR distribution equipment from worthdist.com - their prices are lower than smarthome.com and customer service is at least as good.

At least 3' on each side beyond the left+right speakers (early reflections), at least 20' long (room for two rows and some feet between rear surrounds and listeners), and at least 9' high (room for a full-height ceiling on the second row) would all be nice. Using the golden ratio between...

A lot of this is a matter of personal taste. Ideally, eye height is 1/3 of a screen height from the bottom. If your eyes are 42" off the ground, this means the bottom will be about 26" up. However, you might raise the screen up some to provide better visibility to your second row...

One rule of thumb is 1/3 speakers, 1/3 amplification, 1/3 source. The preamp may get lumped in either amplification or source category; especially if it's a digital preamp. As far as your next upgrade, you might try a sub-woofer. I was _really_ surprised at how much one cleaned up the...

1/4" solid carbide spiral cut. 1/4" works fine on 3/4" MDF and the Jasper Jig markings are setup for a 1/4" bit. Up-cut will get the dust out, down-cut won't tear out if you're cutting plywood with a nice face.

Most movies are shot at either 2.35:1 or 1.85:1. Your projector has a 1.77:1 aspect ratio. Unless you distort those movies to make them fit, there are going to be bars at the top and bottom. On a 4' high screen, 1.85:1 movies will have bars about an inch high. On the same screen, 2.35:1...