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Personally, I dont think you'll have a problem since I dont think in this case the 6" port will ever be utilized fully anyway in such a way that would require a lot of room in front of it, but then this is only backed up by my common sense .. and that could be wrong ;) out of curiousity, why...

here are some links i found while researching the same.. i was more looking into car audio but same principles apply i'm sure http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/ubbc...c;f=4;t=003208 http://www.caraudioresources.net/technical.html http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/u...;f=32;t=000549

At Scooterpalooza I got a chance to talk to scooter's son who's music was playing in the background, and I just wanted to find out (cause i have a crappy memory) the name of his band, and when/where in new brunswick they will be performing.. i'd like to check it out .. and thanks again for the...

this is taken directly from www.techbargains.com Fox DVDs 21-Jul-02 Fox [Link Removed is giving 50% off selected DVDs, using coupon FOXSURVEY (Thanks Shubho) Update: This sale extends to Costco B&M stores! These are only $9.99 each after a $3 instant rebate: Something About Mary SE...

I currently use a Marantz SR7000 . I'm thinkin of using it as a pre/pro and getting a standalone amp (yeah i'm going separates!.. wel almost) .. from reading reviews and looking at how much used stuff costs, i'm kinda narrowing down to carver 705 and rotel 1075. both have great reviews and...

yeah that's what I've been using since correction curves are widely available. I still dont know exactly what to set it to to get proper reading.. i've been setting it to 100db, C weighted ..

The problem for me is that I would want to use this for my car as well

Thomas, check my reply just above your comment

Ok I just looked at the list of recommended mic's and preamps on trurta's site and all the pre-amps are stationary. I want something I'd be able to use in the car with a laptop as well - any recommendations?

Ok, trueRTA does sound like a pretty inexpensive program.. no what about mics? How does it calibrate for different mics?

Software is expensive, standalone RTA's are even more .. I dont mind DIY work, I dont mind soldering .. and if there's a design out there that works well enough I might even come up with a kit for others to buy (i can prototype PC Boards).. so the question is.. what is the most cost-effective...

and to think .. i had to throw out 2 vacuum bags full of mdf dust when I was finished with my sub (not to mention the tons of it i had to wipe from everywhere and shower out of my hair)... i could've packaged it and sold it as some sort of a drug for the HT DIY enthusiast -- "always have that...

the 20" fabric stretched perfectly over the 19" tube i have.. it should be good over 18 also.. and as far as 3 yards... i had about 1 yard left after I was done .. better safe than sorry... it's only about $8

hmm well my sub (tempest 214 liters ported to 18hz) should be able to go under 25 easy .. so i suppose it might be a worth while mod.. but then I already put it all together and it sounds great to me.. i suppose i might do it one day if i'm bored :)

you guys still didnt answer the other question about sound quality .. if the response at the 30hz point is already low and not "boosted" (acoustically speaking) what is the down-side of this boost?

I had something similar happen to me with a car audio setup and in there it was the amp that was to blame. It could also be a phase adjustment, room acoustics or room placement I suppose...

After tweaking my sub using avia and spectraPlus i did not notice a hump at 30hz in my particular setup ... so I'm assuming that removing teh boost would do nothing for me.. or actualyl make the 30hz region sound lower correct? so is there any benefit in removing bass boost if I have no audible...

same as pretty much everyone else.. it's cotton ribbing from jo-ann's fabrics. It was a 20" tube at about $7.99 per yard (I got 3 yards but had plenty left over)

I used silicone caulk and wood screws (pre-drill holes). my sub used a 19" tube (it was sold as an 18" tube for some reason). I also used all-thread rods through the tube, as you can see in the pics, and 2 of them support the structure by using washers and wing nuts to secure the frame.

Well putting the amp inside a tube is a little tricky, since you have to have the frame match exactly the arc of the tube... For me, the top and bottom pieces were easy since you just cut a circle and then cut in half and use the halfs... for the sides, it was a little more tricky .. i had to...

OK . there seem to be misunderstandings... so here's my exact setup: Dvd player IS hooked up with a digital connection (coax) Receiver (Marantz SR7000) is set as follow: Xover (fixed) at 100hz all speakers ARE set to small the bass management is weird when in DVD-DIRECT I think I...

Hmm.. I dont know if I understand exactly.. another thing is that my receiver is hooked up for dvd-direct and unless there's a distinct LFE signal coming, the subwoofer does nothing.. and as far as i know, AVIA doesnt have a single tone that does speakers and sub at the same time... any other...

OK, as those of you who've seen my more recent posts know, I just completed my tempest sonotube with MCM amp .. now I left the phase to the middle where the little dot is .. when I turn it to 0 or to 180 or to any other value I really can't tell the difference... I have the Avia dvd , but...

I havent tried it for music much yet... I'll report on it as I use it more and as i break it in. (althought it's more like it's breaking my house in ;))

Well, yesterday I tuned the sub with the BFD .. my room has a nasty valley at around 57 hz .. so i had to bring the rest of the output down .. but with normal listening levels I measured 90db + at seating location during loud scenes ... and this is with the rat shack spl meter which isnt too...

I posted pics in an earlier thread, but here's the album with some pics: Link Removed

Well I havent built Several, but i just finished mine in a ~214 liter enclosure (vented, tuned to 18hz). My ht setup is in a basement with a concrete floor. the dimensions are 22' x 21' x 7' This particular sub totally fills the basement and then some. I had windows on the first floor...

personally, I decided against using nails... I tried some test-nails.. and wehnever I put a brad nail into a side of MDF it would crack... I just used silicone caulk and I have 4 all-thread rods running through my tube that hold it together.. i also have extremely tight clearances (I had to...

lol yeah .. it's even better when your neighbors get the bowel movements ;)

Well today I got the MCM amp and fired up the tempest sonosub... man it totally blows the doors off my Tannoy PS115.. mind you the Tannoy is a $1200 retail sub.. just a quick tech look at the design: the total volume is about 222-224 liters, but I made a flush mounted amp so the amp mount is...