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The Dayton Titanic subs are excellent. 2 of the 15" wired in series in a 10cu.ft. box with a 4"x7.5" port would hit 106dB with only 3mm excursion on 15W of power and have a roll off that should match the gain of a large room nicely assuming the amp has no boost.

Marketing.

Grab onto a 50W light bulb that's been on for a few minutes to get an idea of what 50W of power feels like. I've had resistors melt carpet at normal listening levels, and they weren't carrying nearly as much percentage of the load as we're talking about here. The short answer is, don't do it.

Joe, I'd be worried that there's not enough area in the holes the woofers are venting into the room through, and that you might end up with some weird quasi-horn loading, or some other weirdness due to front-loading of the woofer. But, hey, you've already got the woofers, for you mays as well...

Fb = F box. Technically, Fb is the resonant frequency of the box by itself. If you look at ported boxes, you will see that Fb has nothing to do with the woofer. The same is true in sealed boxes, although the distinction is typically ignored. Fs = F system, which is ambiguous. If there is not...

If the woofer is in the box, Fb=Fs and Qts=Qtc.

Put the woofer in the box just like it will be in the final - including the amp, if applicable - and measure Fs and Qts directly using something like SpeakerWorkshop (free). You'll have to bypass the amp for the measurements, but you want it taking up space. Make sure you're using and amp with...

If you're getting the "benefits" of active XO from the Rod Elliott page, be aware that he is talking about generic, textbook crossovers. If the crossovers are custom designed for the drivers, there is really no difference, except that a passive XO will stop amp distortion from coming out the woofer.

I have 2 subs. One is an old Shiva Mk. I in a 14" cube with a Linkwitz transform. In room, it is flat to 20Hz. The designed roll-off is Q=0.707 @ 30Hz. It is not Earth-shattering, but this is a big room. I mourn the loss of this driver. The other is a 12" Dayton Titanic Mk III (I think) in a...

If I had one of these, I would probably just end up running a hose from the Diet Coke tap directly to my mouth. :)

You're going to need more than two...

Getting Fs higher than the spec is not unusual, and happens about 95% of the time.

Just hook them up to an amp and play something through them, make sure the volume is turned down so they don't beat themselves to death. If you want to get the most break-in for the power output, play a tone at Fs. But it's really not critical what you use, you just want to flex the spider...

Parts Express has a kit that's something like $125/pr, not sure what it's called, but most DIY speakers will be more than $200/pr. The GR stuff is a good option.

I don't know if I'd call that "very low". at 96dB, it's 10% at 20Hz, 2% at 40%. You'd hope a 15" sub would do better than that.

Many UPS actually put out a stepped sinewave, which is noisier than what you're getting out of the outlet now. Make sure you know what the output waveform looks like before you put in the UPS.

I have one in a 16 1/4" cube, the baffle is 1.5", all other walls 3/4". It shakes the chairs! Make sure you get an amp with no boost, or as little boost as possible.

For a sub, where you can tune at 20 or below, this is probably true. I don't see it happening with a lot of mid-woofs, though. Like I said, you just can't generalize. For subs, I still think it's best to figure out how much output you really need (in your room, counting room gain) and design...

Say you're using a 8" mid-woof with 6mm of excursion. If you play it loud enough that you're hitting 7mm of excursion at 50Hz, then you've hit excursion. If the port is tuned to 20Hz, and a simultaneous 20Hz tone would cause 0mm of excursion, you would be using 7mm of excursion. So it doesn't...

True, but once you've hit excursion, you've hit it, and distortion goes through the roof. If you're hitting excusion at 50Hz, it doesn't matter whether or not you're hitting it at 20Hz also.

A ported driver might have less cone excursion at a given output level, depending on the exact design. You need to do the math to know if it does or not. Even if it does have less excursion (and it won't be much less), there will always be pipe resonances, which sound like crap, and midrange...

I hope that's Canadian money...

This used to be a slam-dunk question before SVS got into the game. Now, I think when you put a value on your time, you have to really think about it some. If you think you'll have fun doing it and have the tools, I say go ahead. But if you hate this sort of thing and will need to buy tools, look...

Mine should get here tomorrow. You can make some probes with about $20 of stuff from Radio Shack and use Speaker Workshop (free) to get T/S. FWIW, even though T/S can vary a lot from the specs, most of the time the woofer performs close to what the manufacturers numbers say. Also, the T/S specs...

It's good to see some 10" drivers coming out, the market could use some variety there. Hopefully the costs will be competitive. I'd like to see the 10" Shiva around $100.

I have both a Shiva and a Titanic Mk III. They are both good, but the Titanic has better Bl curves, and should be more linear over a wider range of displacement - i.e., less distortion. It also costs more.

UniBox says that you won't get port noise until you hit 250W, at which point you'll be putting out 112dB. At this point, the chuffing noise is barely audible in a quite room - you won't hear it with a woofer putting out 112dB. Also the cone has exceeded Xmax, so the distortion will be much worse...

I wouldn't worry about port, noise, that's a HUGE port. Remember that airspeed increases as the sub plays louder. I don't know what output level WinISD is computing air speed at, but it's probably much louder than you'll actually listen at, maybe even louder than what the driver can produce...

Rick Craig gets good reviews. http://www.selahaudio.com/id16.html

I'm wondering if there's not a bad connection in the woofer.